Using Restore A Finish on orangy Oak Cabinet but what about sides?
Dyan Weis
2 years ago
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Sherry Brighton
2 years agoDyan Weis
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Restore A Finish for kitchen cabinets?
Comments (9)Hey Amy, I've actually used RAF on a lot of woods, but not oak. (Tho I have some that could use it.) The Antique Dealer that turned me onto it uses it on most everything that comes through his shop that doesn't require strip/refinish, including oak. (He carries nicer stuff, too.) He keeps a bottle of dark walnut RAF on hand, that's what he grabbed to show me on a drawer I hauled in there looking for advice. His preferred color. I'd do a small test area, maybe an inner lower door toward the hinge where not readily visible. If it's too much, you'll notice right away, simply wipe it right back off. If you just want some spruce up pop, try the oak shade itself. (I'd steer clear of Mahogany and Cherry, too much cool red tint, could look funny on oak, which if it's red oak native wood hue is warmer red.) Honestly tho, I wouldn't be afraid to try one of the darker shades like walnut, cuz it's not really absorbing into the wood, any poly barrier will stop that. And it's not going to be like applying stain, it will amp up the color some, but not completely alter it. Be sure to follow up with beeswax, gives it a nice shine (or your favorite paste wax). AFA ventilation, your gonna need it toots. I did a cherry hutch in the dead of winter. Had to have ventilation. In my kitchen, I opened a window and put a fan in it as exhaust, so it was pulling odor out rather than pulling subzero temps in. It was a little chilly, but it worked, and smell dissipated within a couple hours max. Don't inhale w/out ventilation, you'll get some kind of weird buzz and then what will we do with you?! ;D...See MoreBuilding an oak shoe rack - what finish to use?
Comments (7)Thanks for the tip on what to look for! I was at a big-box store over the weekend & figured out that is NOT the place to get good info on tools or supplies. The (very nice) young man in the paint section was trying hard to steer me to polyurethane, even after I said, "I don't want to use poly because I'll need to retouch the finish every year or so, and can't do that with poly." He just kept telling me to go with a high gloss poly so it will be easier to clean ... The (very condescending) man in the tool area told me the Bosch router bit I was holding wasn't carbide tipped (it was) and tried to steer me toward Skill ... even though I'd already said, "I don't want to buy Skill b/c they're made in China." His answer was, "Everything is made in China, the Skill bits are cheaper and you can get this set with 15 bits in it." Sigh. There's a Rockler store about 20 min from me, I will probably check out their finish department to find one of the options you've suggested. I already ordered a couple router bits online, I should get to play this weekend on some scrap wood :) -Pam...See MoreDisappointed about painting oak cabinets
Comments (30)"I had thought I decided to add hardware and wait until after the floors are finished, new ss appliances are in, new counter top is installed and hope that I wouldn't even care anymore about the cabinets but then today I started seeing some beautiful white cabinets." FutureMrsR, I think your heart is speaking pretty plainly here. From all the other posters, it sounds like there is significant work involved but that good results are possible. The problem I have with your plan is that let's say you put in new hardware, floors, appliances and countertops, but in the end, you still want painted cabinets. You have just made your job harder. You've got to sand and use lots of TSP and other chemicals on the cabinets and not get any of it on your brand new floor. You also would have a MUCH easier time prepping and painting those cabinets if your counters were off. Also, you've got to unscrew all that new hardware off the doors. Better to fill all those new holes in the doors and reattach the hardware in another spot after the prep and painting is done. Sorry to play devil's advocate....See MoreHow to get from boring oak to "cerused oak" finish for cabinets?
Comments (33)cor, I don't even know what you did here. the wood needs to be complete stripped bare. you need to keep the grain open when applying the dye/and the liming wax. did you dilute your shellac 50/50 w/denatured alcohol? did you read the link w/all the directions? yes,,you had a major fail. this was a good oak piece that would have taken a nice ceruse, if done correctly. I said it was an insane amount of work. no shortcuts can be done w/this. now you know. this is raw oak. not a stitch of stain or color on it. I left the grain a little raised for better absorption. this is how that table should look before you even start those doors should be taken off to work on and that whole piece should be somewhere where you can strip and sand it. did I mention it takes hours and hours? you can't just sand off half the stain, put on new stain, shellac and liming wax! doesn't work that way....See MoreSherry Brighton
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