First, yes, a hood liner is what you are looking for. Next, I believe the minimum recommended CFM for a Wolf 36-6 is 900 CFM. Food for thought... you are getting a range top that most REALLY enjoy cooking on. As you use the Wolf, you may find that you cook more and more and use more than 2 burners more often than not. Consider over sizing the minimum CFM requirements just in case (maybe 1200-1500. It doesn't cost that much more and then you can run the blower at less than max most of the time. Next, go with a remote blower or in-line if you can. It will be MUCH quieter. Finally, consider a 42 inch hood liner and a 48 inch capture space. This will create a very effective exhaust system. We put in a 60 inch Blue Star that required 1800 CFM. In the liner system we went with, the closest blower was 2000 CFM but we upgraded to the 2500 CFM remote blower ($250 upgrade) and had a 72 inch capture area built. We did match a 60 inch hood liner with a 60 inch range b/c anything over 60 inches is custom and automatically double. Building the capture area at 72 inches worked fine but if I could have, I would have gone 66 inches on the liner. At any rate, I use the hood most of the time at about half power and it is almost silent. At full speed, you can still have a conversation next to it at normal levels. Lastly, there are a lot of really good hood liners out there and Wolf is certainly one. Independent is another and I used a Prestige high capacity hood liner b/c I REALLY like its baffle system design. I had never heard of Prestige before we got the Blue Star but I am really pleased with its performance.

I clipped this post from a previous discussion on gas inserts to provide additional info on the subject. Posted by: renron on 12.19.2006 at 07:28 pm in Fireplaces Forum First, DON'T install a ventless fireplace!!! Even though the MFG.s will tell you the exhaust fumes are OK, do you really want to breathe them? Many people end up with Major Headaches and chronic breathing issues. Does it sound like a good idea to breathe burnt exhaust gasses? B type flue(vent) pipes are dual thickness pipes. A pipe inside another pipe, suitable for use at 1" or more to flammable materials. Outer casing pipe is sealed and will not conduct air. D (Direct Vent) type flue(vent) pipes are also dual layers but they are capable of exhausting burnt gas through the inner pipe and importing exterior(outside) combustion air for burning. Think of a straw inside a larger straw. Inside straw blowing, outside straw sucking outside air for combustion. A fan is usually used to help exhaust the burnt gasses. Details below: B-Vent (Natural Vent) gas fireplaces are designed primarily for decorative use. Generally they produce a larger and more realistic yellow flame. B-vent fireplaces are sometimes available without a glass window, so many homeowners are attracted to this design because of the open, realistic flame effect; some models do have a glass window so the existence of a window on a fireplace does not define its product classification. Natural vent gas fireplaces use room air for combustion and vent fumes through a vent or chimney that must terminate vertically above the roof line. The key to determining whether a B-vent fireplace will meet your heating needs is to check the manufacturer's listed efficiency rating (gas consumed x efficiency = heat output). While efficient, heater-rated B-vent fireplaces do exist, many lower quality "builder grade" fireplaces have no efficiency rating and, therefore, will not supply substantial heat. In fact, this category of fireplace will often use the greatest amount of gas at the lowest range of efficiencies. If you live in a warmer climate where you want the aesthetics of a fire without much heat, this may be the appliance for you. Likewise, bedrooms and smaller rooms may be a good candidate for a b-vent fireplace, but please check building codes to see if this class of fireplace is approved in your locality or for installation in the room where you'd like to use it. Local/national codes in some areas prohibit the use of b-vent rated appliances, especially in colder climates. Be aware that very "air tight" houses can cause performance problems with b-vent rated appliances, so please consult an experienced fireplace installer who can advise you on the proper installation and use you are considering. Direct Vent Fireplaces offer the most features with respect to gas consumption, efficiency ratings and venting options. A direct vent fireplace will always have a glass window because these fireplaces are sealed systems using a double walled venting system. Combustion air enters the appliance via one section of pipe while fumes and moisture are vented through the other pipe. Most often, a double wall "pipe within a pipe" system is used. Subject to each model's requirements for distance and offsets, direct vent fireplace venting may be terminated either horizontally or vertically. Efficiency rating will average 65% to 84%, similar to ratings on gas furnaces. Keep in mind that these appliances must "waste" some of the heat produced to create a draft of rising warm air to evacuate the fumes produced without aid of a forced air exhaust system. Think of direct vent fireplaces as a decorative furnace: the beauty of a realistic flame with high efficiency. This appliance is great for primary or supplental heating and for emergency backup heating as most work without aid of electricity. Because this is a sealed system that uses outside air for combustion, direct vent fireplaces are usually the favored choice among those in the fireplace industry because of their greater efficiency and exceptionally reliable performance. Hope this info helps, I am a General Contractor. Renron

Dano Marco, I purchased the 36” Induction range. I have actually not used the oven yet as a I a combi steam oven, but have used the cooktop quite a lot. I am new to induction, so have had a learning curve. A couple of takeaways. The cooktop works well, but there is some limitation with the pot sizes, as the top does not have a bridge burner. I like using the knob, but there is a lot of play in that you turn it a lot to go from one level to the next. Also, I wish they had one small burner up front rather than both in the back. I tend to use the center burner the most. Overall I am pleased with the range. I did not want to spend more for the Wolf, and so far feel that I have made a decent choice. Here are a couple of photos with it installed.

It's not so much that you have to use a screwdriver to operate a Bluestar, as it is that a Bluestar is so easy to service that even a homeowner can do that -- often with nothing more than a screwdriver. All those things that you would typically initiate an expensive service call for, with Bluestar, you have the choice. Do what you do with all the other brands and call a service technician -- or fix it yourself, as that's often cheaper and faster. And it's not as if your Bluestar range should require unusual servicing. Things that will fail are igniters. But in particular the glowbar igniters are disposal items on all these ranges regardless of brand. They are designed to wear out after a couple of years. Other than that, all that is needed is occasional deep cleaning, and maybe a drop of lubricant on the oven door hinges once a year. What you should do though is insist on proper installation by a reputable installer. There are a couple of adjustments that might or might not have to be made at installation time. Some of them might only be needed, if you live at higher altitudes. But it doesn't hurt to have somebody check all the set points for minimum and maximum power, and for oven temperatures. These should be one-time adjustments. When we bought our range, Bluestar actually had a white-glove installation service that did these things and then gave you an extra year of warranty. But I don't think this offer exists any more though. So, take this up with your local appliance store.