Yes, I have first hand experience doing this for a couple different clients. My advice would be not to flush mount it. Couple of reasons for this: -To flush mount, your fabricator will have to route the counter-top to the exact size of the Miele cooktop frame. For some fabricators, this is outside their abilities and can result in a rough cut and force you to buy another slab of quartz. -For the fabricators that can do this, depending upon his skill level, this will leave a 1/16-1/8" gap around all sides, perfect place for food and grease to get caught in, and getting it cleaned becomes very difficult indeed. -Another downside is that down the road, when Miele discontinues that cooktop (and this is inevitable), while they will certainly offer another cooktop of the same size, the actual frame and housing is highly unlikely to line up with your already routed counter-top, leading to difficult and expensive options should the cooktop need replacing. For these reasons, I find the risk of headaches far outweighs the aesthetic reward. The good news is that Miele's cooktops have some of the slimmest profiles on the market, such that even when installed normally, they look quite sleek indeed. Hope that helps, Anthony Appliance Buyer's Guide

OK. Thanks. As I understand your explanation, the installation and fabrication was correct unless I wanted to get really specialized. That wouldn't have been worth it to me - I'm fine with it as installed - assuming that it actually works once I get to use it :-). I am moving in tomorrow so I have no idea whether toilets will actually flush etc. It's still a work in progress but I will at least have a shower and a toilet - fingers crossed. Hopefully I will be able to figure out how to turn on my shower which has a three way diverter and multiple valves :-).

I have found that much of the advice from appliance manufacturers regarding flush, inset, and other unusual appliance installation applications is completely wrong. There is usually no engineering analysis done vetting these unusual installations. Often the advice manufacturers give is actually dangerous. Such as advising until 2011 using high CFM hoods with professional appliances in homes without replacement air systems. Manufactures knew this was dangerous for a decade before building code was changed to protect consumers. Insetting ovens in inset and beaded inset cabinetry is crazy and very dangerous, but it is presently encouraged by appliance manufacturers because home owners like the look. Our company will not sell a kitchen with these fire hazard applications, and we have lost 40 and 50K cabinet orders because we refuse to sell it. That being said I would guess that the gap around the cooktop with a Deckton top would be needed for expansion and not for venting, and that your gap looks about right. I have no idea if high temperature silicon will hold up over time but it can easily be removed. And the application at least doesn't seem dangerous. High-temperature silicone is designed to withstand up to 500°F, but some formulas are rated up to 572°F or 600. I doubt any countertop fabricator will remake a top at no charge with this unusual appliance application. But I think it isn't needed and that you already have the best case scenario. If it cracks as Joseph says due to the tight radiuses then you can ask them to replace it at no charge and get larger radiuses, or better yet install the cooktop the way it was designed for. As a top mount.

According to page 64 of the installation instructions, the cooktop needs a precisely cut cutout in the countertop to support the cooktop. The lip of the cutout is to be 1/2" wide and 1/4" deep. If your current countertop cutout has a "crappy" (rough) edge how will it support the cooktop on all four sides? What are the dimensions of the cutout in your countertop? Is there a lip cut into the cutout on all four sides as required for installation of the cooktop?