I too am looking for new countertops and I like the new Corian designs; I think some of them are beautiful. And I like solid surface material for many other reasons. All countertops, including "natural" stone countertops, go through some kind of treatment and fabrication process as others have noted here. And the quarrying process is hardly natural. We all know that quartz countertops are marketed as containing 93% quartz, but I've heard that this percentage is by weight, not volume. (Quartz weighs more than resin). However, when most people ask, HOW MUCH quartz (or whatever material) does that product contain? they are usually asking a question about VOLUME, QUANTITY or AMOUNT, not weight. Solid surface material, depending on the design, can contain approximately the same quantity/amount of natural material (often bauxite ore) as quartz countertops. Sometimes I get tired of people calling solid surface "plastic" when quartz and other materials can be just as "plastic." Yes, granite, marble, and other natural stones don't contain plastic but is the quarried, fabricated product purely natural or purely green? And, let's not forget that the more natural stone there is, the more likely the product is to contain radon (a natural by-product) - yes, it's true that most stone countertops are within VERY safe limits, some even approaching zero. But, although this issue is no longer in the forefront, the radon didn't disappear from these products. The amount depends on many factors including the geological region the product came from. But this alone wouldn't keep me from installing granite countertops if I liked them because I think most are safe. For my taste, most granite designs look too busy indoors, but I'm sure they are gorgeous in nature where they are unpolished and surrounded by dirt/the earth. But, ultimately, no countertop material is "pure" or "purely green." I think there are trade-offs with each type of material as far as its "greeness," its design features, and its functionality go. So, go with what you like! I hope you enjoy your new countertop whatever you choose! Sorry for the long post.

Well, such thoughtful feedback from everyone has been quite helpful. Suero, thank you for taking the time to check out the Corian and laminate to let me know that in real life there is quite a difference to the touch. I've always liked working on laminate counters and had them for 35 years in my last home. Gooster, wouldn't travertine and limestone be too cold for a desk surface in the winter? I don't know much about these lovely materials, just asking. I'm certainly open to looking at other materials. Holly-kay, you best expressed my initial plan, to use the same painted material as the cabinets, as yes, I do want a high end look in that room. In my last home I had a study with white painted library cabinets. The counter was the exact same painted surface as the cabinets. They held up for many years, but needed repainting at the end. However, my DH did the initial painting with an air sprayer at home which can't match a job by professionals, esp. a product produced in a large factory. I think I can handle the care needed with a painted surface, just was hoping something else would work and be care-free. I live alone and the grands are not allowed to be careless with nice things. However, a painted surface would still mean a seam somewhere in the 103" long counter. I think if the last 8 " were pieced in the desk area it would be noticed less at a distance,esp if a desk pad were used as holly-kay suggests. The general consensus seems to be that Corian is a nice product but may not give the formal look I'm going for. Thanks to all of you for taking the time to respond and to provide such open feedback. I really appreciate your help and will post photos when the cabinets are installed. I've slowly been collecting artifacts from whaling days for this shelf system so can't wait to finally display and enjoy them.

Watboy, that is almost two thousand a foot, way too high unless it is Habersam. Find a local customer cabinetmaker in the phone book, preferably one that also does countertops of all kinds. That way there is no finger pointing on issues. Kitchen dealers are ordering factory cabinets and marking them up, they have to to cover their services. For some people, a designer is the way to go, we refer people to designers from time to time rather than doing their work. Big box stores are using guys like me and again marking up their work, or getting it at a low margin. Regardless, a custom shop will build you better cabinets and get them done quicker. Find one that also installs, again, no finger pointing. Expect prices to start around $300 per foot installed for some pretty basic cabinets. If you want Kraft maid quality, expect $400 to $500 per foot (those are some really nice cabinets in that price range). If you want Habersham type work, expect closer to $1,000 per foot, with about one third going into the finishing process. Solid surface, Corian is only one brand, runs from the high twenties to the mid seventies per square foot, installed. Any edge that can be polished with a machine should be no extra charge. If hand work is needed for ogee edges or the like, expect five or six bucks a linear foot. Sink and cooktop cutouts should be free, expect sinks to run from $275 to $500 depending on brand. There are some brands of solid surface to avoid. Bad material, bad warranty response on problems, or a history of bankruptcies by the parent company. Ask the fabricators which brands they sell, and which brands are kept hidden inside a cabinet somewhere. Samsung is an excellent brand, as is the LivingStone that others mentioned. Solid surface sinks don't stain, if they do that is a warranty issue. Most likely the fabricator switched a cheap china sink for the manufacturers good sink. An unscruplous fabricator can pocket a few hundred bucks on a job doing that. Yes, there are different finishes or polishes on solid surface. Matt finish is the best for durability, 60 micron sandpaper then a scotchbrite buffing. Satin is 60 micron, 30 micron, then scotchbrite buffing. Satin brings out the darker colors in a sheet. Gloss finish usually is not recomended for kitchens unless you are willing to put up with tiny scuffs when viewed in the right light. There is an exception, 100% polyester solid surfaces that can be sold high gloss. Still, a perfectionist won't be satisfied, but neither will they be happy with granite with its natural flaws. Light colors show abuse less, dark colors are a big no no cause like a black car, they show every little ding and scratch. Scratching, well we have a couple of tops that were pulled out under warranty after 9 1/2 years in a home, one bad sink. They look like new, but it was a neutral color. In about eight years of fabrication of solid surface tops, we have had seven calls to fix a scratch, and we don't charge for the service. It is a really rare occasion, a coffe mug with an abrasive bottom or a plumbers metal tool box are the usual culprits. We tell people to take a sheet of 220 grit sand paper, tape it down, and wiggle their ceramic ware back and forth several times. Problem solved. So, like other materials, solid surface isn't a perfect material for a countertop, but there are fewer complaints from customers than the other materials. In my opinion, it is the best material available as long as you don't pick a black, dark green or dark blue. It is 100% non porous, uses FDA approved materials, has a NSF51 rating for countertop use, sinks can be intergrated with no seams or cauling needed, shouldn't be a charge for cutouts or common bullnose edges, the horizontal seams should be nearly invisible, you can make backsplashes that match or even window sills, it is available in half sheets (15 square feet) which means less waste and thus less cost, it is pretty consistent so no need to visit a slab yard or worry that someone will cut out the pretty part, it can be bleached for sanitation with no harm, common cleaning products won't hurt it, and no matter what is done to it, it can be repaired almost invisibly. No sealing needed, ever. And long warranties that truly mean what they say because the fabricators must be certified to purchase the material. The best thing is that solid surface shops aren't used to the material having flaws that can be blamed "Oh, it is a natural product you know, it is all like that". We tend to be perfectionists and the material is light enough to handle that it can be taken out and scribed if needed. Rodding isn't needed so rod splits don't happen, it doesn't stain or etch but if it did, just sand it out and repolish. Bacteria can't survive on it for long, no crevices, cracks, fissues, pores, pits or caulk seams for them to hide in. The acrylic brands and some of the polyester products are UV stable so no fading like quartz or some granites. It is produced in factories, no child labor involved, no mountains ripped apart, no bonded labor used. No suprises in the chemical content like granite, no radiation, no radon, no cobalt 60, no Polenium, no arsneic or lead or other heavy metals. Uranium can't leach out because there is none to start with. You know who makes it and who will stand behind it, the brand not the fabricator. Everyone who knows me knows I can go on and on on the benefits of solid surface. It isn't as pretty nor as hard as quartz or granite, but it is a safe investment and workers don't develop silicosis working with it and I've never heard of a fabricator getting killed from a sheet of it falling on them. Then after years of service, you buff it up and it looks like brand new. No other material can offer that. No one uses coasters on solid surface, but if that coffee mug will scratch or stain solid surface, it will likely do the same to granite or quartz. Go over to findstone.com and read thousands of granite customers customer complaints, read the dozens of problems here on Garden Web on granite issues, there is no other material that has as many complaints. Less than 30% of the market, with 90% of the complaints. I'll sell it to you and make a good profit. I'll test it first to make darned sure it is a low radiation level stone first. You will like the quality of my seams, installation, and polishing, but when it cracks, stains, or etches, I'll say I told you so. It is just a stone, it came out of the earths crust. Understand that and you will love the stuff. Just my opinion

Thank you @Janet for the input, that makes sense about the dark vs light. Your kitchen turned out lovely, so clean and refined yet comfortable and cozy. Mine will be more modern but I hope it can feel as comfortable as yours when it's built! What I mean is just the dimension of the edge profile. Standard is 1 1/5" which is what I am guessing yours is? I've been calling out 1" because I want it a bit thinner, the material itself is .5" like at your sink, I am even considering no edge, just the material thickness. But your's look good and balanced which may talk me into going 1.5" if that is what yours is, it's nice to get a feel from a built kitchen and I have a hard time figuring it out from photos. :) Has your edge chipped? I have quartz right now and it's one of the main reasons I want to stay away from it because my square edge is all chipped up. So do you think I would need something under my coffee pot too? For my simple, modern aesthetic I don't really want to set my coffee pot on anything, but I can certainly use a wood board for the crock and instapot. I have a jura capresso expresso maker, not sure how hot it really gets. I also have a toaster oven. But I guess I might have to have some extra custom trivets made from the stone slab. I am using stone on my island. I'm adding to the list of things to remember! Even tho I would rather not use anything if I could get away with it. Just to clarify, there are times you go all around your counter with a 3m pad, I am sure it's a bit of work, but do you find it easy to get it even? I will be so scared to mess it up! Thank you again for chatting with me about all this, very helpful!