Here is a very easy solution. First install a 1" diameter sleeve through the block/brick wall. The sleeve may be made from any type of pipe, I.E. PVC, CPVC, copper, galvanized iron, black iron, etc. The space between the outside wall of the sleeve and the inside of the hole through the block/brick may be sealed by any available means, expansion foam, tar, pitch, cement etc. On both the Hot & Cold water supply lines install a "stop & waste" ball valve about 3Â inside the exterior wall. Run the supply lines from the stop & waste valves to the inside of the exterior wall and turn down to your proposed valve location. Install a thermostatic control mixer on the wall about 1 foot to either side of the sleeve and about 8" to 10" higher than the sleeve, only install the valve upside down so that the supply lines will enter the valve from the top and the shower riser output is on the underside of the mixer. Beginning at the shower riser port, which is now on the bottom of the mixer valve and extend a 1/2" copper line down to the same level as the sleeve and install a tee. Connect a horizontal line to the tee and extend it over and out through the sleeve then fill the space between the inside of the sleeve and the outside of the copper pipe with expansion foam. From the bottom of the TEE install a short nipple of pipe and install a ball valve. On the outside of the wall extend the copper up to a point about 4Â above grade and install a ball valve, then extend the line up to a shower head. To OPERATE: (For initial/seasonal setup you may want a helper.) Have your helper go outside to the shower location and open the ball valve. Now close the ball valve on the bottom of the shower mixer and open both the Hot & Cold supply valves, then turn the shower mixer on and have your help monitor the water temperature as you adjust the mixer. When you get the temp set for a "mild shower" have your helper turn the ball valve off on the shower riser. From this point, any time someone desires to use the shower they simply open the ball valve on the riser and the temp is preset. To WINTERIZE Close the Hot & Cold supply valves then place a bucket under the valve under the mixer and open the valve, then open the ball valve on the shower riser and go back to the supply valves and remove the ÂWaste Port Caps". Removing the waste port caps will allow air to vent into the line from the supply shutoffs to the mixer and allow all residual water in the lines to drain to the bucket. After the water has drained replace the waste port caps and leave all the valves in the same position. By leaving the valve under the mixer open it will insure that should any water possibly leak past a supply valve it would immediately drain out the bottom drain valve, thus minimizing any possibility of a line freezing.

Hey Jimbar! Thanks for the link to the water heater! I'm sick of my PB trying to sell me his contact's things/ideas. It seems he has a buddy involved in every aspect of building a pool from start to finish. He nearly had me convinced that I needed to work w/ his plumber and electrician along w/ his gas guy to install an under-the-counter heater for our shower to the tune of $1000!!! YIKES! I LOVE this forum as no one here has a hidden agenda (except for the spammers hahaha!) so many great ideas for less can always be found!!!!! Love the video as well on that DIY network!! Your pool has always been one of my favorites! Joanne

Just my opinion based on having worked with both an architect and interior designer on projects...it is a great investment to pay for four or five hours of their time to get it right rather than do it myself and get it "okay." They will have experience in knowing what can be done most efficiently and cost effectively and in the long run, you will save money. With the goals you have set out and the constraints, seems to me you can't afford not to have a designer.

Is there a question?