Kitchen appliances location, which is better?
Hello all,
Haven't post things for so long.. giving ( you) a break :) :) . We will be start the house by the end of this month and I still haven't finalize the kitchen layout, which is important for the framer to have the window at the right location.
I have 2 kitchen layout, very similar, the major difference is where the appliances are located. We will be using a counter depth fridge to give us more walking space. My questions are:
I tend to prefer having the stove closer to the fridge as I would have more countertop space between stove and sink. What would be your suggestion?
Shallow cabinet by the Fridge ( 18" and if I buy Ikea it would be 15") : Would it look weird as the fridge would be 13" sticking out ( with side panel) if we don't recess the fridge into pantry.
Not sure how to fit a microwave as it is not deep enough for a unit. (I read in Houzz, some people remove the drywall and use the cavity of the2x4 to add room)
family room is just after the kitchen
Thanks for your comments
Comments (12)
nhb22
last yearlast modified: last year(I read in Houzz, some people remove the drywall and use the cavity of the2x4 to add room)
You can do that on an inside wall. You would not want to on an outside wall as you need room for your insulation.
We recessed for our fridge. The wall between our kitchen and mudroom was already 6". House built with 2x6 studs. We framed out/added a few more inches into the mudroom to make our fridge plush to the kitchen cabinets. The handles do stick out past the cabinets.
Short recessed bump-out is for fridge.
mqcola thanked nhb22Related Discussions
Better range or better frig, which would you choose?
Comments (21)@MissTKO2015: It sounds like you are looking for a 36" integrated refrigerator, want to reduce the amount stainless (even consider white), a. Consider this Thermador model instead : T36IB800SP Similar price, but without the extra exposed stainless and can be fully integrated. b. Are you open to floor models? Showrooms are often reconfiguring their spaces this time of year as the new models come in. Just a warning on the budget -- make sure you price out your panels. Depending on who is doing your cabinets, they can get very expensive (>$1,000). I ended up with the Viking (based on a Whirlpool design) because it was a good deal and they have a trim kit available. I had DH's budget dictate to fit into. The finish level on the exposed surfaces is generally better (the quality and thickness of the stainless steel) than other standalones but the standard pricing is unfortunately at a premium (roughly 3.5K instead of 3K for the KA standalone). KA, JennAir, DCS, and others make derivatives of the same base platform at different prices, but not all of them offer a trim kit (extra). I was concerned with the amount of stainless and chose to panel the DW, put the MW in a cabinet (with pop up door), and went with a powder-coated hood....See MoreWhich of our kitchen designs do you like better?
Comments (7)I understand your desire for an island--I love my work table/island. I have aisles about the same width, but the traffic aisle is not against a solid wall--there are cabinets there, which provide a little more shoulder space for someone walking through. And, my island is only 5' long. If your island is only 26" in depth (including overhangs), you could add a couple inches to each aisle. I think the island, as drawn, is too long--it would be better to have a shorter island, and add seating in the window area. Three people won't be able to sit comfortably on the end of the island as drawn, anyway. If the window can be moved, the range would fit on the back wall. You'd have the minimum prep area, but room to spread out on the island. If it's not feasible to move the window, then the same layout will work, but put the sink to the right, with the prep area in front of the window. If you give up the pantry on the right, you might consider creative storage ideas, such as a 'morgue drawer' in a banquette, and/or between the studs storage on the garage wall (if it's framed, and if safety codes allow). GW discussions--'morgue drawers' [Houzz--stud bay storage[(https://www.houzz.com/magazine/tap-into-stud-space-for-more-wall-storage-stsetivw-vs~26936417)...See MoreI can't stop. Which kitchen is better?
Comments (50)Hi Tosca, here are pics of our walk in pantry beneath the stairs. It's a funky odd space but we made good use of it. Pic 1 - the door is right next to our fridge (fridge & rest of the kitchen is to the right). This opens up to the section that I think is under the top of the stairs or perhaps it's under the 2nd floor landing. The ceiling is pretty high. Pic 2 - the pantry then wraps around under the stairs and behind the fridge. The door to the right leads to the furnace which is also under the stairs. Because the furnace may someday need to be replaced, we opted for a rolling cart for our coffee maker rather than a built in cabinet. Not shown: the wall directly behind the fridge. We have our mops and brooms hanging on that....See Moreremodeling kitchen-which appliance brands? Miele/wolf/thermador/ect?
Comments (20)@Landen Huey There are always pros and cons to every kind of burner or oven and what is a positive for one cook may be a negative for another. I have used both gas and electric ovens for more years than I care to admit to. Unfortunately there is no one universal best. Gas ovens with the exception of the infrared broiler on the higher end ovens and maybe lighting a different way haven’t changed all that much over the years. On the other hand electric ovens have. There really isn’t a simple electric element anymore except on the very low end. They no longer have an open element on the bottom, which changes the way some things bake. It is also probably the source of many problems with enamel chipping. They use computer boards to control the direction of heat from 3-4 elements cycling them on and off and they control fan speed and direction. There are some brands That you can never shut the convection off all the way. You can imagine it can be hard to get all that just right. In some cases the gas oven might be much more accurate than some electric ovens. I have an Electrolux oven which is spot on and heats very evenly but it has had issues with the blue enamel shedding as well as complaints here about the computer boards. I have a Wolf DF and it is not as accurate. It lags and if you turn the temperature up, you have to turn it off and back on again. There are some electric ovens that advertise very tight temperature control but that is only if you never open the door. The manufacturers also advertise “true” or “European” convection as evening out the heat, when many actually create hot spots. On the very epitome of control you have the CSO that also controls the humidity in the oven. All of these things can make some ovens more vulnerable. Aside from those issues gas and electric ovens function differently. Gas ovens have large vents because you need to vent the products of combustion. This gives you more heat and moisture in the kitchen. If you are steaming bread, it is hard to keep the steam in the oven though. Many people think has gas is moist heat but you have to look at the oven as a whole. The drier oven cavity promotes quicker browning so it is great for roasting. Electric ovens start with a dry heat source but because they have small vents, they hold onto moisture from food. This is good for baking anything that needs to rise. You can turn the convection fan on if you need better browning. If you would go with Wolf, I would try to get the current model. They are changing the DF range to have the fans in the corner like the M wall oven. This sets up air currents on the sides so hot spots. It won’t have convection bake mode either which is a slower fan so a little more gentle. This is the most usable conv mode on mine. I would guess it will have the replaceable bottom like the M so it can be repaired if the blue chips....See More
mama goose_gw zn6OH
last yearWhy can't you use full depth cabinets beside the fridge and on the other wall? I'd take some length from the island--74" (72" cabinets -plus 1" on each end for overhang) will be sufficient for three seats. Or, just set the pantry wall back far enough to accommodate the fridge and full depth cabinets.
I prefer the DW, and dish storage, outside the prep triangle, where it's easier for a helper to unload the DW, or gather dishes to set the table, without entering the prep/cooking spaces:
mqcola thanked mama goose_gw zn6OH
mqcola
last yearHi, thanks for the comments, I will check the drawings. I thought had left at least 36" for walkway if not 42", will double check it. The fridge and stove location are from previous comments I got from this great community and I like the idea having the stove to the outside wall for better exhaust.
@Andrea C; the kitchen is open to the living area, no walls ( this is me and Ikea planner :):)) . the door leads to the dry bar and dining room. the full height by the sink is recessed ( only 18" deep) with glass doors so I can stored some items I have.
I am attaching some pictures to show what I tried doing with the high cabinet. I was thinking a making a transition from kitchen to living room.
On the picture it is not showing a patio door at the end. but will give an idea of the drybar, kitchen and living room.
@mama goose_gw zn6OH, I will try switching the DW, it might not have enough space for the change., and definitely will check on reducing the island to 74". Would you have 24" base cabinet and 12" upper, correct? I was doing the 18" base and upper.
suezbell
last yearsuezbell
last yearmqcola
last year
cpartist
last year
ci_lantro