Help needed for rose garden design please!
Cuteleier Z6 KS
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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K S 7b Little Rock (formerly of Seattle)
2 years agoCuteleier Z6 KS thanked K S 7b Little Rock (formerly of Seattle)Related Discussions
Please help me plan my zone 6 rose garden
Comments (8)Well, I disagree with Harry. I think it depends on what part of SE PA you are in. I'm more central, in the Susquahanna Valley, Lancaster Co. within a quarter mile of the Susquehanna River and Conestoga River delta. I have Double Delight in my garden that is super. It's low growing about 4' tall and is one of the fullest disease resistant roses in my garden. It's the sub-climate, I'm sure. Gemini gets much taller, say about 7' in my garden and is a good rose for the back of the garden as is Veteran's Honor. Fragrant Cloud is about mid range (Double Delight size) as well as Iceberg. Our Lady of Guadalope is squatty and needs to be in the front. Yes, you will have to treat for black spot, but I prefer a systemic rather than a spray. Bayer has a good one out that helps to keep black spot to a minimum. I've also found that if you keep the bushes well fed and ground watered, black spot is again kept to a minimum. Use an organic fertilizer and a drip system for them. Keep the moisture off the leaves and all dead leaves cleaned up from around the bottom of the plants. I actually, very rarely water -- only when drought threatens them and they are showing signs of stress. Most of my roses are now quite established and can fend off drought conditions. Yes humidity does play a factor with the black spot and that is why you must treat for it. They will still show some sign of it even if you help the plant be as strong as possible. That is what the systemic is for. You can also pull off the leaves as they get it as well. As far as Austin roses -- well, it is a taste that is learned, I suppose. To me, Austin roses in this area are no better than the HTs. Each one is just as different as the next, some have good disease resistance, others are just ronchy. I have two Austin roses (the only ones left). Tamora which is looking at the shovel this year, or at least moved to a pot where I think it might be better. And Shaifra Asma which was planted in memory of a friend and will stay. SA does appear to be a good plant so far. Another thought would be to plant own-root roses. No matter if they are HTs, Austins, Polyanthas or what, own-root roses have better strength and disease resistance in our area. Your selection of roses are beautiful....See MoreClimbing old roses with fenced veg garden - need help designing
Comments (20)Hi Carol, I can understand how the idea of building permits ever got started--protection of the public!--and the real needs for that in housing and other buildings. But if it gets applied to pergolas, it seems unrelated to public safety. How much do they charge someone for building a pergola? Perhaps the charge is so low that it's a mere nuisance? The main argument for a pergola is that it's very inviting and attractive the year around. I have seen pictures of posts with chain swags in a famous Paris public garden and the roses look fantastic there. As best I can recall, the posts were large pillars and fairly tall, though I cannot find a picture now. The rub would be what it would look like in the winter and early spring if you're not building large (wide) pillars, but are using wooden posts. If you are headed toward a circle of posts, a circle of tepees might look better when uncovered in the winter and early spring. Our first fence was professionally installed and the fence-builder's suggestion was that posts set into a gravel footing hole would work fine. Anything set up as our do-it-yourself building books suggested, with the posts in concrete, would have been noticeably more money so we went for what we could afford at the time, and that was already plenty expensive. That method did work reasonably well, although not quite totally solidly if you pushed against a post. After about 20-25 years the posts had rotted in the ground, though, and my husband had to do the fence posts over again. At one time, our fencing on two sides held thin "farm" wire mesh fencing (6 feet high) and I loved the looks of it, because beyond the fence were beautiful woodsy areas I liked to be able to see and the fencing didn't detract or distract from that view. I think the sections were about 8' each, as you are considering for yours. I'm no expert at all on rabbits, but I wonder whether a fence that is only 3' high would be tall enough. I think, though I'm not positive as to the exact route the rabbit took, that a rabbit here has jumped up to some landscape timbers that were 3' or higher off the ground (to trim way back our Julia Child roses for us). Rabbits love roses. The best way to make sure you have no deer problems is to prevent deer from finding your roses and vegetables in the first place. I'd suggest that you not wait to see what happens, because once hungry deer have a memory of getting food at a certain place, it's much, much more difficult to ever keep them out. There's a book that discusses keeping out deer that's well worth reading now (right now, to help you plan). Your local library ought to have it, but if not, it's relatively inexpensive to buy from Amazon: "Deerproofing Your Yard & Garden" by Rhonda Massingham Hart. Deer aren't kept out by rose hedges, not if jumping them is to a spot they are already familiar with, such as would be the case for them while the roses were growing up. They don't jump into areas they can't see or are unfamiliar with, though. Deer will eat roses, all roses, even very thorny ones, if they are hungry enough. That tends to occur in winter and early spring during some years, but not all. (After a famine, generally caused by more breeding than the land's vegetation can support, the deer don't reproduce well, so the deer population pressure on the land lowers for a few years then; that cycle can mislead you into thinking that you've solved the deer access problem when you haven't.) Your gorgeous front gate with an arch will be wonderful, and so inviting. I've seen many pictures of that being done, and don't think I've ever seen one that looked less than wonderful! Best of luck! Mary Here is a link that might be useful: Phillip Oliver's pictures offer lots of landscaping ideas...See MoreNeed Help Re-Designing my English Garden
Comments (13)Thanks for adding your suggestions, Renee! And gypsy, I think your garden is lovely, don't sell yourself short! And thank you Renee for your kind comments. It is such a pretty, pretty area of our yard, and my husband is on board for it to stay formal. And yes, these rose trees are breathtaking. Every year the perform better and better. They are nearly 8 feet in diameter right now . We're going to have to re-stake them. Again. With something really massive, lol! House is sort of a beige with medium brown trim. Sounds ugly, but it is sort ofTuscan in its style, and it's a nice neutral color. Here's an old photo of the house (much more landscaping and fruit trees, now). My formal garden area is on the left side of the house: Colors for the flowering plants. Thinking purple (have some variegated lavender colored iris that will stay, just need to be dug up and repositioned), pink and white. And some silver foliage and green foliage. The lavender I was thinking of using is Lavandula angustifolia 'Thumbelina Leigh'. Very nice, well behaved, very rich green foliage and deep blue purple flower heads. Plus, it is very fragrant. I have found this to be one of the very best lavenders for small spaces, just has so many great qualities. I was also thinking of maybe using some Dianthus? I found these 'Super Trouper' in a fuschia pink, which I think would be a nice color accent. Foliage is silvery: White Meidiland roses would be great. Or some white rose. I have a lone 'Glamis Castle' that looks gorgeous below the 'Red Fairy' tree rose. So, yes, white roses would be very pretty. I'd love to have any DA rose, so I might try to mix and match pink, purple and white DA's in the middle of the triangles. For the shady areas, I could go with a white Kalanchoe, or a white begonia with the Hellebores. The shady area is much more difficult to plant. Patty S. This post was edited by hoosierquilt on Mon, May 20, 13 at 18:44...See Moreneed help with japanese garden design please reply
Comments (4)I might be a little leery about having a downspout dumping water close to the JM, they don't fare well with "wet feet". It could lead to root rot, frost heave and such. I would consider having someone come out and move the downspout elsewhere (or if you are reasonably handy, DIY!) It would be much better for your JM, and you wouldn't have to try to hide the downspout, or look at poor results of same. As for the design, I'd consider a few more fairly large rocks in the dry creek area, planted liberally with Japanese forest grass (hakonechloa) perhaps along the house, behind the lantern/Red Dragon. I was in the process of slathering my yard with forest grass last year when they named it the 2009 perenial o the year, and the prices DOUBLED, and the plants SHRUNK IN SIZE by 50%!!! (guess I'll have to grow em out and split them) Good luck wid-dat!...See MoreCuteleier Z6 KS
2 years agoCuteleier Z6 KS
2 years agoK S 7b Little Rock (formerly of Seattle)
2 years agoCuteleier Z6 KS
2 years agoCuteleier Z6 KS
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoCuteleier Z6 KS
2 years agoflowersaremusic z5 Eastern WA
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoflowersaremusic z5 Eastern WA
2 years agoHutchae84 Zone 8b/PNW
2 years ago
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Tammy (Southern Ont) Zone 4/5 USDA