Not knowing much about the pot or soil and anything else I'd say that you may have some root rot going on. Easiest way to find out is to take it out of the pot and check the roots. Look closely at the ones in the bottom of the pot and around the edges, tease the soil away to check. #2 reason could be, West Virginia in April? If it's outside a little colder temps or frost will turn new growth to toast in no time. In Pa I would open the doors of the cold house in March/April but not totally uncover any of it until the danger of frost was gone. This gave any new growth time to harden off before total exposure. Bob

Severely pruning back a long candlelabra topped cane will promote bushier and fuller growth at the base. If clean pruners are used that otherwise might have been in contact with a diseased cane, and cutting just above a budeye you should not experience any dieback or canker. It's common for a bush, after it matures, to throw long stiff canes topped by a large spray, espcially on shrubs, floribundas, and grandifloras which tend to bloom in cluster anyway. You can live with the result or cut it back to match the rest of the bush after the cane blooms out. Once bloomed out, that cane will problably not bloom like that again but will produce smaller flowers on short canes.

Brad, I got this reply: "William from ACS forwarded your email about your friend's camellia problem. I help William out with questions like this because I am a plant pathologist. When I first read the email I thought you might be referencing a friend in Callahan, Florida that has called me about a similar problem with his camellias. I spoke to Jerry Rice tonight and he has had the extension service out to his place twice investigating his problem which is very much like what you are describing about your friends camellias. At this point they have not identified the problem. Jerry would like to visit your friends camellia collection and see if the problems are related. You can call Jerry at 904-879-6906. He is an experienced camellia grower that may be able to help. Hope this will help your friend. Mark Crawford Valdosta, GA 229-460-5922"

If the one side is in fact dead then, yes you will want to remove it as it will invite all kinds of infections/diseases. I would start cutting it down from the outer limbs and slowly cut small sections off and check after each cut if there is green inside. Stop cutting if you see green. Even if the other side is alive and it is found to be a separate tree and not just a separate trunk from the same roots, It will need to be removed when you are able to see the roots. Growing one citrus tree in a pot is hard enough, never mind growing two. Citrus trees are not house plants and require lots of sunlight. unless you get all day sunlight from a south facing window it will not be enough. You will need to supply extra light and one CFL, unless you can focus all of its light like steve, will not be enough. Some people also try placing there trees in a cool garage will low light to try and put the tree in a some what dormant state but this is tricky. I would try and hold off on switching out the soil until your tree is outside but if you have the room and can get the materials for either the "gritty mix" or "5-1-1" put together then go for it. These mixes take some time to get use to and will dry out very quickly and may need to be watered multiple times in a week and possibly everyday outside in the hot sun. When you have your tree bare rooted( all old soil removed) make sure to keep it wet and check for dark brown/black rotted roots that need pruning. As for the fertilizer, I don't know much about Miricle grow fertilizers but I would recommend "Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro 9-3-6" which has all the micro's that a potted citrus tree needs and seems to be recommend by all the experts here. Keeping your pot elevated off the cold floor with a stool or something will also help warm the roots.