We just bought a counter depth Kenmore Elite stainless and so far (only had for 2 weeks) we love it. It is 24cft, is energy star rated, very quiet and has a nice display on the freezer side for leaving messages, list, calendar, even a picture album. When you open the door it lights up from top to bottom with LED lights. Time will tell for reliability but so far it is quite nice and in our small kitchen is great that it does not stick out like our old one did. Here is a link that might be useful: Sears Kenmore Elite

Thank you all for your opinions! I think I will go with the basalt slate. Can anyone who has laminate recommend what edge to get. I like the more modern look of the square edge but dont want to deal with the brown line. I was thinking of getting the D edge which looks almost square but without seam. The only problem is the layout of my kitchen I have a peninsula and I dont think that edge can go around a corner seamlessly. My layout of the counter is an L shape where the peninsula is the bottom of the L. Does anyone have experience with this? I want to avoid as many seams as possible. Here is a picture of the D edge.

Refrigerator carcass/box depth is only part of the story when determining the depth of a refrigerator and its impact on an aisle. You need to measure the full depth - including: (1) Box + Doors + Handles (2) Amount of space you will have behind the refrigerator for air circulation, power outlet + plug, and water line (if you have a water spigot and/or an icemaker). From my experience, CDs need less recommended air circulation than standard depths. Check the refrigerator's specs for the minimum recommended - but be aware that your installation may need more space, depending on your setup (e.g., do you need more space for the plug or water line than is recommended in the specs?) As Lisa mentioned, you need to measure from the handles when determining the aisle width and you need to determine how busy that aisle will be. You also need to take into account what is in front of the refrigerator - is the Prep Zone in front of the refrigerator? the Cooking Zone? If the Prep or Cooking Zone is directly in front or it is in any way "shared" work space, you will need more space in that aisle. So, measure from the refrigerator's handles to the counter edge of an island/peninsula or whatever is in front of the refrigerator, determine what you will have directly across from the refrigerator, and determine how busy that aisle will be.

My situation is somewhat unusual. This is my home, yes. I personally don't need a built-in fridge. I could care less for myself, although the Maytag I bought when I bought the house is a POS total waste of money. The reason for this reno, though, is that the bulk of my income comes from renting my house to vacationers, primarily in the summer. I am not on or near the saltwater beaches, so I have to rent on the strength of the house. This summer, I had an invasion ants (it's an old house, as well, 1880, the part where the kitchen is). As well, mice have constantly come into the kitchen via the crawlspace below because no one really sealed the kitchen off from the crawlspace when they built the kitchen. I've plugged everything with steel wool, though, and that has taken care of the mice, although they're still able to get in behind the cabinets, just not into the kitchen proper any longer. But with the ant invasion this summer, I had to refund some rent money as an act of goodwill and apology to a few of my guests. I don't want my guests to have these kinds of problems, obviously, and I don't want to have to reimburse rent (my income/livelihood). I had sealed the window on the outer wall and never had a problem with ants, until this year. They are now coming in from behind the dishwasher...long story . My cabinets are horrible. Two drawers have completely fallen apart, and one door split, which I glued back together. They are scratched up, sagging shelving and backing, particle board stapled cheap you-know-what. So, to get the kitchen fully sealed off so critters can't get in there, I have to pull everything out to get to the walls and underfloor. If I'm doing that, I will replace the cabinets, floor and counter (which is now a laminate). My kitchen is a very small, u-shaped kitchen. I can't open the fridge door all the way because it hits the oven door, so cleaning the vegetable bins is very hard because it's very hard to get them out and back in since I can't open the door all the way. But my house has two wings to it, which makes it very appealing for two families who want to vacation together and split rental rent. Each family has a lot of privacy since there is a queen bedroom in each wing, each with its own bath. But with two families, a tiny kitchen is problematic. With the fridge jutting out into the floor, as it does now, two people cannot work in the kitchen. Hence my need for a 24-in. depth fridge. And then you get into, if you're going to spend that kind of money for a refrigerator, get the right one, even if it costs a bit more. You're already spending a *^*(&)ing fortune. I'm getting the paneling for three reasons: I really dislike stainless steel; I am terrified of tenants scratching SS; a SS fridge would look gargantuan in my tiny kitchen. I move out when my house is rented.