Refrigerator carcass/box depth is only part of the story when determining the depth of a refrigerator and its impact on an aisle. You need to measure the full depth - including: (1) Box + Doors + Handles (2) Amount of space you will have behind the refrigerator for air circulation, power outlet + plug, and water line (if you have a water spigot and/or an icemaker). From my experience, CDs need less recommended air circulation than standard depths. Check the refrigerator's specs for the minimum recommended - but be aware that your installation may need more space, depending on your setup (e.g., do you need more space for the plug or water line than is recommended in the specs?) As Lisa mentioned, you need to measure from the handles when determining the aisle width and you need to determine how busy that aisle will be. You also need to take into account what is in front of the refrigerator - is the Prep Zone in front of the refrigerator? the Cooking Zone? If the Prep or Cooking Zone is directly in front or it is in any way "shared" work space, you will need more space in that aisle. So, measure from the refrigerator's handles to the counter edge of an island/peninsula or whatever is in front of the refrigerator, determine what you will have directly across from the refrigerator, and determine how busy that aisle will be.

This is a freestanding fridge, so it does not affect the value of your house (or can be swapped out for the pictures if you have to sell). That care taken care of, measure carefully. Remember that many full depth fridges still need air circulation in the back, so make sure you're looking at the full footprint numbers, rather than the box depth. Draw it out on the floor with masking tape. If you're not in the space yet, do it where you are, and make tape versions of the nearby cabinets and island too. Fill with boxes. See if walking around the stick-outy fridge bugs you. See if you bump into it a lot. Because that wall is there, no matter what depth fridge you have, it's going to have to stick out so a left-of-picture hinged door can open completely or have a single door opening between you and the working part of the kitchen. This can actually be useful, because you can dump things on the island, but snack raiders and condiment snarfers can be more or less outside of the kitchen while they root around in the fridge. Play around with the possibilities and the tape and boxes, and you'll soon figure out which you want. There are pluses and minuses of each, but it's how you and your family with use it and what will please or annoy you that matters. That's different for everybody.

Measure your space. Go to Lowe's or a large appliance store and check out some of the fridge styles and layout for yourself and measure the . There will be many fridges that are counter depth but they vary in depth and width a good deal. I found out that my regular depth sxs fridge which was older was the same depth as my new counter depth. Many posted measurements do not include the door depth , just the case. A J Madison has a good website for researching appliances. I would preview there first

Why Hamma? Because most Americans say they need humongous refrigerators/freezers. I hear people say they need to store the meat they killed on a hunt. They have very large parties every weekend. They cater large parties. They have many children who need many snacks all day long. Maybe they live many miles away from the nearest grocery store or supermarket. One of the posters above mentioned pizza boxes and soda/beer can boxes. (Not sure why you'd need to put a whole pizza or beverage box in the fridge.) Personally I have none of those issues. I do not like nor need a large hulking refrigerator. Counter depth is a cost-effective way to avoid the behemoth fridge look in the kitchen. Yes, they do protrude a few inches, but not as much as a conventional depth one. I have the same KA counter depth fridge (cost $2,000) as Anglophilia in my vacation rental home, and after 7 years it's still working fine, and looks great. In my primary residence we went for a 42" side by side built in Subzero, which protrudes only about 2", but is much more expensive ($9,000 retail). Fully integrated Subzeros are totally flush with the cabinets, and require expert installers.