a large canvas would be easy & lightweight. and easily changed out.

Slats would be permanent, and dating. Something fresh like fruit or veg. it's a kitchen.

Or a professional photo of your children/grandchildren in chef atire, aprons, flour, mixing bowls?

Check the code. You have to have lots of clearance around a panel. Covering it is not allowed. If you choose to do so after final inspection I would do something lightweight and easily removable (?hinged canvas)

https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/interiors/q-a-electrical-panel-location-in-kitchen_o

i am looking for something more modern. and i can cover it as long as i can remove it quickly if access is needed.

We have no reference for the appearance of the room so it's hard to make a recommendation.

You could install sliding barn doors to access the boxes.

@BeverlyFLADeziner i just added a pic of the rest of my kitchen. unfortunately it is too expensive to knock down the wall (for now at least). I was thinking of a sliding "door" i guess you can call it but thin wood slats (i love that look)

One large peice of ightweight canvas art would look great there, and be easy to remove when needed. There would be nothing "boring" about it unless you choose boring art.

I'm not normally one to look for problems, but I would be surprised if your current sitaution passes code for your new kitchen. That's before you even start looking at wall ideas. Specifically, per the picutre above, you're supposed to have open space for three feet in front of the box - floor to ceiling. It's one thing that people put a table there, that doesn't get seen during inspection. But a permanently installed cabinet and countertop is typcially grossly in violation of this rule (and legit unsafe!!). I would look to spend the big bucks to reverse it or move it. It will probably be around three to five thousand, because it's a pretty big job.

Can I ask why it isn't in a basement, laundry room, or utility room? The only time I saw a box in a kitchen was in the old Brooklyn apartments I lived in.

Looks like that wall has a little recession? might be perfect for push to open shallow shelving like this?

I take it that this is an older home as no would today would put the panel in a wall in the kitchen.

If it were me, I would find out how much it costs to move it. And then I would have it moved.

Please have an electrician that specializes in remodeling give you an estimate to move it.
We bought an older home that had been “remodeled” several times by a real cheapskate. I still remember the cussing of the electrician when he discovered a nest like jumble of wires with wire nuts and no juncture boxes at all. He was furious that someone would put their safety at risk by cheaping out.
We wound up upgrading the breaker box and wiring as best as we could after moving in and then ran all new wiring when we did a to the studs remodel ten years later.
The safety of you and your family is worth the price of fixing this.

I have a breaker box in my mud room and a large picture disguises it quite well. Another solution would be to make it appear to be a window with a curtain. Keep it simple!

How about hanging a mirror over it? That’s not to every person’s taste, but I like mirrors in a kitchen. Get a little sticker or make a nice sign that states the electrical panel is there for others to see, (which would be nearly never). One could also make a nice tile mural on a board or in a frame to hang there. Don’t discount a picture out-of-hand, either. I got a Hatch-print poster about women with big hair, covered it in glass for ease of cleaning, and use that as the backsplash/gunk catch between my stovetop and range hood. It rarely needs cleaning but for a quick wipe and people really like it! It’s a hoot.

I like the disguised window ploy mentioned above, too. You can absolutely roll up a matchstick blind in a minute if you need to.

Fire Departments across the USA are trying to require all residential main panels to be located on the exterior...right next to the electric meter. When responding to a fire call the first priority is to turn off the power, and any gas source, at the main. Sorry to say, hiding or disguising the main panel is a really bad idea.

It would probably be less expensive to install a main shutoff at the electric meter and would fulfill that purpose as long as the meter is outside! I’m not sure this is their main breaker panel, but doing an outside shutoff is a good idea nonetheless.

No way would I ever EVER want my panel on the outside of my home. So someone can easily come up and turn off the power? Nope.

https://www.kold.com/story/29711493/neighborhood-crime-watch-breaker-box-burglary-alert/

Panels are very frequently located on the exterior in older homes. Those that were built before electricity was commonplace didn't plan for them, so that was often the easiest location to add them. A 1/500M internet story issue is fearmongering.

Reversing the panel would be the easiest and least expensive way to bring this up to code.

I'm surprised people keep suggesting superficial cover ups to this. It's possible that the panel was previously grandfathered in that location. But when you re-did the kitchen (clearly redone here, including new cabinets directly in front of the panel), that grandfathering was likely made moot. Which tells me you are doing this DIY or your contractor didn't pull permits. I think tons of permit issues on renovations are stupid and just over regulation, but safe electrical panel access is about as important as they come. I think it's likely an insurance company would not pay a fire claim based on this.

@PM Project Management - Not fearmongering. Brother-in-law was past-President of a State Fire Chiefs Association.

Disregard all suggestions of just hiding it. You need to remove the cabinets and counter in front of it (per Inspectapedia's diagram given above) for code clearance. Or reverse to other side of wall as suggested, which we don't know what's in that room, and provide same code clearance. Once one of those 2 options are complete, then you can think of a way to cover it with an accessible cover that maintains code clearance.

"A 1/500M internet story issue is fearmongering".

LOL what nonsense. It happens everywhere. Obviously you can spend some bucks and lock that sucker up, but for ME - I do NOT want my power panel outside. Nope nope nope all day long.

https://www.wwltv.com/article/news/local/orleans/burglars-cut-off-electricity-before-breaking-into-lakeview-homes/289-167756625

https://abc7.com/thief-stealing-power-breakers-off-ie-homes/5856815/

https://www.reddit.com/r/homesecurity/comments/kpqrws/how_do_i_secure_my_outdoor_circuit_breaker_box/

https://blackhatsecurity.com/felon-vs-power-box/

I would hire an electrician to reverse it, opening into the adjacent room. Shouldn't be too, too expensive to have done. Then, presumably you count get rid of the second box, restore the wall and add upper cabinets. And hang a light weight canvas over it in the other room. After the inspector leaves.

My daughter uses her's to her advantage. Magnets and pictures/notes/recipes. Celebrate what you can't change. She currently has a wheeling dishwasher in front of it (SMALL OLD HOME) so not her issue, but what's wrong with a counter under it????

"but what's wrong with a counter under it????"

Consider the required NEC code clearance space around it a life safety issue, the same as your egress door needing 32" clear, or a 36" stair landing, do you want to block those with counters?

"It's moronic to suspect that people are going to roam the streets turning off power"

What is moronic is to put words in other people's mouths. Burglars CAN and DO use outside panels/cables to cut power and more. Do they "roam the streets" looking for it? I doubt it. But it is CERTAINLY an issue. It is fine if you have no concerns. Others do. I do suspect that "million dollar homes" have security systems, or gates, that somewhat protect access. Most of us "regular folk" don't have that luxury. I stand by what I have stated. YMMV.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PauHxl4Zc4&ab_channel=Q13FOXSeattle

Hang a pair of related-theme paintings over both boxes. The working panel needs to be accessible. The defunct panel doesn’t need to be accessible unless it needs to be removed. Why two panels? Paintings are easy to remove and they don’t cost too much at Home
Goods or somewhere, and are decorative. There may be wiring in the wall that would preclude hanging cabinetry there. You can use a hand-held meter to discover where the wires from those meters go, or call a professional to tell you where it is safe to put a nail or picture hanger above the boxes. Maybe one large painting could cover them both. I think they are too large together to hang a spice cabinet or spice rack across them.

How about playing up what it is. I would never want to hide something that might need to be accessed and found quickly in an emergency (and not necessarily by the person who lives there and knows exactly where it's hidden) but put something artful over it that also indicates what it is -- a picture of lightening, an artsy outlet or lightbulb picture -- something to give a hint to emergency personnel.

Making stuff up? Right. Like I said. YMMV. Live and learn dear.

This is from the San Diego crime prevention website:

• Replace burnt-out bulbs promptly. Use screens, wired glass covers, or other protection for light fixtures and bulbs. Install padlocks on circuit-breaker boxes to prevent the lights from being turned off.
• Because lights and other security systems work on electrical power it is important that measures be taken to prevent disruption of external power or provide internal backup power. At a minimum, external circuit breakers should be installed in a sturdy box that is locked with a shielded padlock.

If it wasn't an issue, there would not be a need to take such measures.

This is absolutely to city code. (not white box up top of breaker box). Small white box under meter is shut off for air conditioner. Long horizontal box I forget what for, but I think ac breaker box. Pole from electric meter had to be through roof. This up to code is maybe 2 years new. There is also a wire grounded into the dirt. No inside a house for me. This is outside garage on driveway.

IMO If a homeowner is relying on an "electrical / wi-fi" burglar system all I can say is...good luck. Unless one is paying BIG $$$ to a private armed response firm, what's the advantage? Local law enforcement has their hands full, responding to an alarm in an unoccupied house is very low on their priority list. (Yeah - I'm going to risk getting harmed to protect somebody's stuff??? Don't think so.) Many Departments won't even come to the house to take a report - you go to the station. A 30 pound mutt from the pound (to alert you at night) and homeowner's insurance (to cover a daytime loss) is sensible.

This guy never cut the power, just used a big rock, all the homes had burglar systems. https://apnews.com/article/147ef70aa8e74984a51f192c4b4041ff

You need to take care not to nail into any wiring, usually above and below such panels.

With 1" shelving boards -- cut to size for the top and the bottom and each of the two sides -- you could create a box shelf with a thin lightweight (luan) solid back the width of the wall above the countertop in which the panels are located and the height enough to cover the panels from top to bottom.

Attache a vertical board to the same vertical stud to which the door frame is attached or attach a strong stainless steel piano hinge directly to the same vertical stud to which the door frame is attached. Attache the other side of the piano hinge to the side/end of the box shelf.

https://www.google.com/search?q=+deep+box+shelf+&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjRi6nCxpDxAhURLq0KHYSqAXUQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=+deep+box+shelf+&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQDDIECAAQHlCCL1imQmCVWmgAcAB4AIABjQGIAZYCkgEDMC4ymAEAoAEBqgELZ3dzLXdpei1pbWfAAQE&sclient=img&ei=J9nDYJHcO5HctAWE1YaoBw&bih=615&biw=1366&client=firefox-b-1-d#imgrc=qRGmroBTSc3HIM

--

https://www.google.com/search?q=sturdy+hinges&client=firefox-b-1-d&sxsrf=ALeKk00HCetc3RtDv29k7yJ6aAWlUWIN4A:1623448093901&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwilxMq3x5DxAhXKG80KHbYlAFoQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA#imgrc=EMjcuOeYxRXv_M

With a back panel in between the top and bottom boards, your box shelf would hide the panels, yet, with a hinge, it can be "opened and closed" easily to "remove" it from in front of the panels.

You could add a rod or wood trim barrier in front of the shelf to help keep items on the shelf as it is moved.

https://www.amazon.com/Rustic-State-Kitchen-Bedroom-Stained/dp/B01579QUWA

IF you don't actually need two full depth shelves -- which would make the shelving unit heavier -- then, in lieu of a "box" shelf you could add only a much narrower board for either the top or bottom shelf (to make the shelving unit sturdy) and use the much shallower shelf for a spice shelf and S&P and sugar bowl and creamer.

I live in an older house and the breaker box is centered on the main hallway. Not attractive and not in my budget to move. Covered it with a picture with a study frame because I knew I might have to remove it often. So far only twice in three years. It might be a boring, obvious solution but it’s also easy and cheap. Can’t comment on the code issue but I bet you could find a piece of art that you like. From the pic you provided, looks like the perfect sized area. I love art in kitchens.

Edited to add: The art may not be cheap but a lot less than moving the electronical

"IMO If a homeowner is relying on an "electrical / wi-fi" burglar system"

I'm not sure why you keep making assumptions. Dude, if you want your breaker panel outside, no one is stopping you. All I did was present information, since someone questioned my preference.

“Edited to add: The art may not be cheap but a lot less than moving the electronical.”

It won’t be less if there's ever a fire or other incident (read up on yearly statistics) and her insurance won’t pay up because the box was covered up and hidden. It will be technically (and loopholed) called, ”Failure to maintain”.

Some of y’all might not care about the potential safety issues, but I’d read up on my insurance policy before deciding, ”Oh, that wouldn’t happen to ME. I saw it on Pinterest!”

.

ETA: Going a bit O/T, but in case it helps anyone reading and who isn’t aware: there are some older brands of panels that turned out to be very dangerous — so many claims a year — that insurance companies will now not cover them. Many from the 1950s — 1990s (among others). And I doubt most homeowners even know it.

One type of the breaker panels Jinx is probably referring to in the comment above is the brand Federal. I worked for an electric utility for nearly thirty-four years (often doing wiring inspections) and that was the only brand I was ever aware of that was known by us as a hazard. That doesn't necessarily mean there may not have been problems with a couple of others, but Federal's stuff had notoriety.

^^^ Yep, absolutely, and Zinsco, Sylvania, Challenger … just to name a few. There are others I can’t think of right now.

Glad you weighed in!

"but what's wrong with a counter under it????"

I would be unable to reach the electric panel because the counter is in the way. I'm kinda average height. I can't imagine this is okay by code.

I also wouldn't be comfortable with the panel outside. It would probably freeze; it's not a closed system like the meter.

So who has actually had the power cut from an outside electrical panel? Not me. Lived in my house since 1994! And yes, I have a hard wired security system that has had zero breaches.

I think we have all got off the track. Have not heard from the OP for days and honestly with no info from them all we are doing is spinning wheels. I would want to know why the unused box is an issue at all and what is the space next to this space ? I do not get the whole exterior electrical box since the whole gist of this discussion is the ability to quickly access the box and that sure does not make going outside to do so make any sense at all.

The magnet idea is a really good one.

Another might be to add one of those removable hooks above it and hang a really large calendar there to cover it.

There are faux window posters that you could cut to size and attach to both the panels and the wall around them, cut at the edges of the panels so the panels open. The image of an outdoor scene could help hide the handles of the panels.

https://www.google.com/search?q=faux+window+posters&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiOzaqovZLxAhU6n3IEHdXbDWQQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=faux+window+posters&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzIECAAQGDoFCAAQsQM6AggAOggIABCxAxCDAToECAAQQzoHCAAQsQMQQzoGCAAQBRAeOgYIABAIEB5Q-YshWKCpIWCoqiFoAHAAeACAAYkCiAHUEZIBBjYuMTAuMpgBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1nsAEAwAEB&sclient=img&ei=8dvEYM6QArq-ytMP1be3oAY&bih=615&biw=1366&client=firefox-b-1-d