Hey, thanks all. I did in fact get three written estimates - they are all apples to apples so to say with the only minor difference being a few sprayers here and few more heads there. I don't need sprayers - all my landscaping is pretty much low maintenance - no "flowers". Anyway, the company that gave me the high bid is the one that was referred to me via this site by "irrigationguy" - (Jersey Shore Lawn Sprinklers). I was told they were pricey but also that they are very professional. So far, they are. You can see that the way they conduct business is a cut above. The other 2 estimates were both Hunter and they were about the same price/per head or zone. There was only thing I was leery about with one of them and that is that their advertisement states they are BBB members but when I checked, they weren't! I said something and the office person acted surprised and said she was going to look into it as "they are members" according to her. Hmmm. Anyway, with all the problems I have had with various contractors over the past couple of years, I am inclined to go with Jersey Shore. I may cut the job to only the front yard as the back yard is a work in progress and it seems like we would have to rip out sprinklers down the road if we go ahead and put them in in the interim. "more to grow: I'm confused about your statement that "both companies produce quality products but neither of which you would ever install". Please explain further. Thanks!

1. Diatomaceous earth is not poisonous, it works like broken glass, the effect is physical rather than biochemical. It is supposed to puncture the skin of small pests (or the intestines, if they eat it). 2. No, there are many types of cat litter, few are suitable as soil amendment. Avoid everything that is clumping, made from organic materials, or crumbles if you squeeze it. The useful ones are very similar to products like Turface and Napa Floor Dry. All I have seen have been pinkish.

Thank you for referencing the post regarding the quality of old wood windows. Your issue with the sash weight cords can be easily remedied by carefully removing the interior wood casing, or removing the small "doors" held in place by one screw in the side jambs (often this feature was not available). Either of these options would allow access to the weights within the wall cavity. The weights are attached to the cord/rope by a simple knot, and the sash contains a mortise on the sides. The opposite end of the rope also contains a knot and a small nail to secure the knot/rope to the sash within the wood mortise. A new cord/rope can be purchased from your local hardware store and cut to the appropriate lengths required for proper travel. Be sure to oil the wheel assembly mounted to the top area of the jamb, or remove the wheel assembly before the cord is replaced and clean all paint residue before applying oil. Another simple maintenance item would include taking a bar of paraffin wax and rubbing it up and down within the jamb pocket where the sash slides up and down. This will allow the sashes to travel up and down with much less effort and may help remedy your "stuck" issue once the sashes have been "un-stuck". The "sticky" sashes may simply be due to the paint bonding to itself within the jamb pocket. The wax will solve this problem too. Many old structures have moved or settled over the years and that often caused window frames to become out-of-square. This situation does not allow the square sashes to "seat" properly within the frame, thus allowing air travel around the sashes. If this is minor, I have removed sashes and sawn a small kerf in the bottom of the lower sash and top of the upper sash and installed a compressible bulb type of weather-strip material used with modern wood windows. This provides compression when the sashes are closed and fills the void left by small differences in sash alignment to the frames. On a larger scale, wooden storm windows can be manufactured to fit the exterior side of the original double hung window (interior side if casements are used). The advantages of this "modification" are numerous compared to complete window replacement. Less mess and waste, shorter on site work time, less expense due to limited on-site labor, etc. Essentially, the most difficult aspect is making cardboard templates of the existing windows since the frames may no longer be square in the openings, and determining the pitch of the existing wooden window sill. We have often removed trim and re-set the existing windows square in the openings when there has been substantial movement/settling over the years. The storm windows would be manufactured off-site and may contain modern low-e insulating glass, if preferred. The frames would be made of a solid wood that is resistent to rot or decay. This could be cedar, cypres, mahogany, teak, etc.; take a look at what wooden boat manufacturers use in their construction for an idea on what wood to use. The edge of the new storm window frame should contain a rabbet on three sides that allows the frame to wrap the existing exterior window sash stop. This area will also receive a sawn kerf to accept a bulb weather-strip. The bottom of the storm panel is beveled to match the existing pitch of the wood window sill, and also receives a kerf and weather-strip. Once installed, the storm panel protects the existing window during cold months, provides energy efficient glazing compatible with modern windows, and provides air infiltration sealant through the use of multiple weather-stripping. This will likely alleviate your concerns about moisture and mildew on the exterior side of the original wood sashes. If condensation occurs, it will likely be on the new storm panel which is a marine-grade wood species. The aesthetic value in retaining original windows and wavy glass is sometimes tremendous. The cost saving value may be found in less on-site labor, but also in potential resale value due to the greater aesthetics in the original detailing. Among some additional advantages, this may be a good approach for many homeowners. In regards to the lead-based paint issue, I have never been too concerned about it, as it has been determined to be unhealthy when consumed and I've never thought of eating the flaked off pieces of old paint. Obviously, if very small children are present during paint removal, my opinion of lead-based paint would be different. I cannot imagine how much old paint I've scraped or sanded over my lifetime, but I've never given it much thought. Opinions may vary on this issue. On the same topic, I agree that lead-based paints did/do provide a more durable finish. Lead-based paints are still approved for commercial uses, such as for repainting steel bridges and such, as it is pretty important to protect such structures from rust. This may allow one to conclude that lead-based paints are more durable and may not be as highly toxic to normal human interaction. Lastly, regarding the difference in the two wood species, both pine and fir are considered "moderately" resistant to rot. Douglas fir may hold slight advantages due to some additional oils in the wood, but it is likely a longevity difference of today versus next week in terms of when they will each succumb to rot. If you're set on replacing the existing windows, an extruded aluminum clad-wood window can offer two benefits in that it is low maintenance on the exterior side and the heavy extrusion often offers additional structural integrity. Check window cut sections to view the amount of metal used, how it is applied to the wood, and how the aluminum is joined at the corners. I avoid clad wood windows that use screws, staples or glue to hold the metal to the wood. Due to expansion differences between unlike materials, these two should not be mechanically fastened to each other or it may be prone to separation at the corner joints. Physical attachments are a smaller concern, but still provide some bond between the unlike materials. Both instances may allow water penetration behind the cladding at some point in the life of the product, thus creating a hidden decay problem. We also don't use clad-wood windows that don't fully wrap the exterior frame with an extrusion, particularily at the sill. Any exposed wood in this area has proven to rot prematurely. I hope that you have found this information helpful.

I have not yet repaired them. I think I will wait until I am finished remodeling in case they go out again. They are easy to unplug and reattach though. The only thing I worry about is that they have some sort of residual charge on them and that has to be taken care of before you remove them. It is way over my head...electrical stuff. Maybe someone here can explain how to do it. I now have 8 identical ceiling fans that only go on lowest speeds. I had forgotten about the 2 upstairs.