What do I need to do this? My hoodie was really expensive?
Mikayla_ Castillo087
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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tartanmeup
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Really old hydrangea, what do I need to do for it?
Comments (3)The spent flowers could be deadheaded but it such a large specimen now that (a) it may take "forever" or (b) you may not be able to reach many of the top blooms. I would try to remove dead wood regularly but I would do this around the month of May when it is clear which parts are dry and which ones are just dormant. Opening some areas in the top so light can reach the bottom leaves is always useful too (or thin out the leaves a little). Besides this, you can just do the usual things. Apply 3-4" of mulch up to or beyond the drip line so the roots do not have to be watered often. Add a layer of fertilizer below the mulch using either cottonseed meal, compost or well composted manure. Maintain the soil evenly moist as best as you can. And in case this applies to your soil, amend the soil to acidify if you notice signs of iron chlorosis. This post was edited by luis_pr on Mon, Apr 1, 13 at 7:17...See MoreBlight--do I really need to destroy all my plants???
Comments (4)"Blight" is a term folks mistakenly use for anything that puts spots on a leaf! There are different types of blight and it is important to stipulate - if you know - which you have. Early blight is quite common and while treatment is required with a fungicide, no you do not have to destroy all your plants. Just remove the worst of the affected leaves and treat the plants with a fungicide. It is late blight that is causing the fears and problems in the NE but it doesn't mean that is what you have. It's a very different and more serious problem and has very different and very distinct symptoms. If confirmed then yes, you may wish to remove the affected plants. Suggest, in addition to a good fungicide spraying program, some research and picture comparisons at the site linked below before you panic. ;) It is a site that is being recommended and linked in most of the discussions here on the various forms of "blight". There are many good fungicides on the market but if you search 'fungicide' here you'll find that Daconil and Ortho Garden Disease Control are the 2 most frequently recommended. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: TAMU - Tomato Diseases...See MoreDo I really need to get my chimney cleaned?
Comments (5)yes, you should probably get it cleaned and looked at if you are unsure of it's cleanliness or condition, HOWEVER, be wary of those who make false claims to the effect of "you need a new liner, i see a crack in the clay tile". many sweeps etc, are not honest at all and will convince you to spend large $$ for a needless relining. an occasional crack in a clay tile, or a bit of missing fireclay between tiles is not uncommon and in an OPEN FIREPLACE poses no real danger at all; regardless of some of the nonsense you hear on many sites....See MoreDo I really need to book match my granite?
Comments (22)Our job took 3 slabs so 2 of them were a bookmatched pair and the third one was the next one in sequence (the one that had its rough face against the rough face against one of the pair. Since its polished face was 4 cm away in the block of granite from the polished faces of the other two, its pattern was very similar to theirs but there was some drift. Our L counter has a sink leg that was longer than the long dimension of the slabs and longer than twice the short dimension. The other leg was longer than the short dimension of the slabs. That means there was no way to lay it out on the slabs so that all seams were bookmatched. (If both legs are no longer than the long dimension of a slab, they can lay it out with a diagonal bookmatched seam in the corner. Our kitchen fabricator doesn't like to do the diagonal seam, but in our case it didn't matter because of the long leg.) The only way to do our counter with only one seam was for the seam to be at the sink or dishwasher. Fabricators seem to be divided on whether a seam at the sink is good or bad, but over the dishwasher is more of an issue because there is no cabinet front for support. We wanted the seam at the sink because it let us have just one seam and our fabricator preferred that as well. Our granite is 2 cm with a plywood underlay so it is well supported at the sink by the plywood and cabinet. Our granite is very active, but the grain doesn't have a strong direction - in some areas, it slants across the slab and in others it was pretty swirly. We spent a couple of hours with the fabricator laying out the templates on the slabs. We were doing granite backsplashes and wanted a good match between the counter and backsplash and also had to fit long pieces for our window sill and counter outside the kitchen window. We chose a placement where the two sides of the seam were in a swirly part of the granite. I can see the seam when I look for it, but I don't notice it otherwise even though the color match at the back of the sink isn't perfect. Recently we had a surround made for a new fireplace from the remnants from our kitchen. The top and one side came from one piece and the other side came from another piece because those were the only remnants long and wide enough. I think the fabricator did a good job of positioning the pieces on the remnants so that the seams aren't jarring even though the long direction of the top piece was parallel to the long direction of one of the side pieces on the same remnant. BTW, the left and right side pieces came from the same part of the slab on the two slabs that were back to back - you can see that they are close to mirror images of each other around the white smile-shaped mark but the darker area a foot or two below the "smile" shows more differences....See More
rrah
2 years agoptreckel
2 years ago
morz8 - Washington Coast
2 years ago
kathyg_in_mi
2 years agolindac92
2 years agoMrs. S
2 years agoMrs. S
2 years agotartanmeup
2 years agoci_lantro
2 years ago
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