Effective Organic Control to use is Diatect V. This is from the Natural Gardener website: Protect your new vegetable transplants from trouble. Have you ever had a wonderful day of gardening only to return the next morning to find half your transplants have been cut off at the base? Well, there are two possible culprits, the cutworm or pill bugs (aka rolly-pollies). A cutworm is a caterpillar that lives in the soil and will wrap itself around a new transplant at the base and cut it off. You can either protect the plant with a collar around the base or place a stick next to the stem so the cutworm will wrap around the stick along with the stem and not be able to cut through. Once the plant is established, the cutworm is not affective. The Pill Bug will gnaw at the base of a seedling or a new transplant. Once the seedling or transplant is established, the pill bug will generally leave the plant alone, so you need to be diligent about protection for only a short period of time. First for pill bug control keep the area on the drier side. Water early in the morning. This allows the top part of the soil to dry before night, when the pill bugs are active. Also keep mulch away from plants during this period of time. In the evening dust with Diatect V, diatomaceous earth (D.E.) and pyrethrin, around base of plants. Set up boards, grapefruit halves or banana peels as traps for the pill bugs and scoop them up every morning and dump into soapy water to get the population down. Pill bugs, like many pests, have their place in life as decomposers of dead plants or weak plants, so control is only needed during the early stages of the plant's life. The rest of the time let the pill bugs do their work. Roger and John have been doing tests here at the nursery and have been having great success with the certified organic pesticide Diatect V. It is a mixture of Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.) and pyrethrin. It does not have piperonyl butoxide as many other D.E./ Pyrethrin mixes do. Some of the harder to control bugs that we have success with include four-line bugs, squash bugs, stink bugs, harlequin bugs and other hard-shell bugs. It is best applied with an applicator to really get the dust where the bugs are - on the underside of leaves and the ground where they jump when they are disturbed. We have several different types. RogerÂs and JohnÂs favorites include the pest pistol, which is a simple accordion style pump bottle, and the dustin-mizer which is a hand-crank applicator that electrically charges the dust particle so it is attracted and sticks the plant - a must for large gardens. When you apply this product, you must take care not to inhale the very sharp silica particles of the D.E. Here is a link that might be useful: Organic pest control

woodfloorpro, thanks for the response. Sorry, I lost track, trying to deal with this, BUT I did read your response, which helped. We have a different floor guy coming to fix it. He looked at it, and said what you said, that he would do a light sanding/screening, to take down the bumps, and then he would buff it, and then put a coat of poly. QUESTION: The 4 coats were done with Parks Pro Finisher, oil-based (I think by Rustoleum). I don't know what this guy will be using. I talked to a different hardwood guy who said this coat should be Bona. The 4 coats that are on the floor now look very pretty,with a clear look. (It's semi-gloss). You do have to look close, when light hits it, to see all the bumps. I have been reading in "Contractor talk", online to use Bona as a last coat. Does that matter if Pro Finisher is used, or another kind? He's coming to start tomorrow afternoon. Another question: is after this is done, is this one addition coat enough, because all the bumps have to be sanded down?

Yes, it's an 18" applicator that looks like a paint roller, but the thing doesn't roll. Some of us roll our finish onto the floor with a paint roller and one manufacturer specifies a particular finish be applied only with a roller. In waterborne finishes look for those by BonaKemi, Basic Coatings, Vermeister, Duraseal, Poloplaz...and many others. They are available through flooring supply dealers. The two-part products are usually the best (most durable), although I have used one-part waterborne and got great results which my customers are still satisfied with many years later. Read the MSDS sheets for the products and follow instructions and cautions...these are named professional use products for good reason. A good floor finisher will vacuum a floor AND the perimeter several times to remove any debris that might wind up in the finish. A crevice tool is used to get into those spaces between baseboard and floor and other nooks and crannies to suck out any debris that one good puff of wind could blow out and onto the floor.

There are many brands of wiping poly and wiping varnish as well as gel poly and gel varnish. Wiping finishes are usually just diluted versions of the regular finish, i.e. 50% finish and 50% solvent. Because you have only 50% of the finish in the mix it will take twice as many coats to get the same protection as the regular brush applied version of the finish. Because the coating is thin and applied smoothly by wiping it on, sanding or rubbing out between coats is usually less or even unnecessary. Gel finishes are thicker than regular finishes so that they can be applied to vertical or sloped surfaces without dripping or running. Because wiping and gel finishes are applied with a rag or wiping pad rather than a brush you don't have a problem with bubbles in the finish.