Samantha, Absolutely, lack of expansion joints could have also been the part of the problem, which is unrelated to grout joint size. When installing, manufacturer instructions comes first, then the standards second if there is missing or conflicting information and instruction. If there is a failure, an inspector (or a court) will first use manufacturer specs and instructions, because they are the liable responsible party in a claim, so their information takes presidence. Thats what installer must follow first if there is conflict, and if there is missing information, the TCNA/ANSI standards come in. Now, many manufacturers refer to the TCNA/ANSI standards. Additionally, some manufacturers do not offer all needed information which then the TCNA/ANSI standards kick in. Every installer should be well versed in both. There are many tile and stone manufacturers who still allow for ultra thin grout joints. In regards to the standards changes you mention in grout joint sizes, indeed the TCNA/ANSI has made recommendations for the first time concerning grout joint size and spacing. To completely understand the new changes you have to understand how recommendations are made. When they say "in general", these are not absolute standards. Simply guidance lacking any other source taking presidence. When they say "absolute", these are standards that are never to be strayed from. The new changes on grout joint width is an "in general recommendation" or situational recommendation. Ultimately, the project owner should choose the grout joint they desire. -from the TCNA website. Please view the TCNA link for more information. It explains it pretty well. If you have tile cut or manufactured to tight size tolerances, you can have any joint size you wish. Of course, as I stated before, not all tile is able to be installed with the ultra thin grout joints. Again this is situational. There is no absolute standard for tile joint width. Tile it is a finish topical product, relying on the subfloor/framing/substrate structure for rigidity and in-range deflection for its stability and structure. Now if you continue to believe otherwise, that the tile system itself aides in overall system stability and structural integrity and/or that grout joint size matters at all when tile sizing is withing parameters, I really dont know how else to convince you. Since this obviosuly matters a great deal to you, I would suggest you buy a copy of the standards. Its relatively inexpensive. Then you can read for yourself in context. Also I would suggest that you start reading up on tile manufacturers installation guidelines and instruction for various products you may be interested in, as they take presidence, although they usually are in line with the standards. Here is a link that might be useful: TCNA Standards For Grout

Oh, how I wanted my natural bluestone patio...well, it now looks anything but "natural." It's a hot mess! Original landscaper installed and used polymeric sand because that was "best." He recommended not sealing it. Or, as he said, "Let it sit a year and then seal it if you want to." Very shortly after installation, stones started turning orange or had deep orange/rusty spots developing like a rash. The polymeric sand grout started popping up like worms after a rainstorm by year two. Hired a new hardscaping/landscaping company who--at year three of the patio--power washed it, swapped a few stones and tried to remove some stains, installed a new type of polymeric sand (which is supposedly better for the larger gaps the earlier landscaper used), and sealed it. First, the power washing did leave what looked like swirls of gray "graffiti" on some areas, but that seemed to go away with sealing. Until it rained, I wasn't sure they had yet sealed it, but it was evident when water beaded up and remained on the surface. After it dried, white patches appeared all over the stones. Reading how this can also occur with sealing concrete pavers, I'm now wondering if that composite deck idea was better! All I wanted was a beautiful, natural bluestone patio. I've stepped on countless university and college walkways that do not have these issues, and that is the look I was going for. How do they achieve such beautiful patios and walkways without the issues we homeowners face? I know they don't use polymeric sand and their "deep pockets" must be able to afford the best stone and best installers.

@Pink_Peony First, thank you for saying the work is stunning. Good field staff make all the difference. Hmmmm.....There could be a construction driven reason why North Carolina clay is problematic for bluestone but Chicago clay is not. For the life of my I cannot think of what it would be. I would be very reluctant to accept that explanation without some engineering to back it up. Those contractors could be right, but I am suspicious of their simplistic response. There used to be very few landscape material distributors but now they are a common site. I mention this because those distributors typically sell manufactured concrete pavers as well as an assortment of natural stone. If you call a distributor that sells both manufactured and natural stone products, ask whether there are issues with bluestone or natural stone in your area. If they sell both types of paving products then they do not have a vested interest in selling modular brick versus natural stone. I suspect that the negative contractor responses at the show on bluestone are driven by the skill of their work forces, not an issue with clay soils, but perhaps not. Of the manufacturers you listed I am somewhat familiar with Belgard and Pavestone. I took a look at the Cambridge stones you mentioned. Yes, Cambridge does have some very good looking product and they also have a trademarked face mix technique called Armor Tec. That casting technique is a real plus in my mind. Of all the modular products on the market I am most familiar with Unilock but I'm not sure if they are in the Carolina's. If you do have distributors in your area ask them who the three best contractors are locally for you. What you will get is probably 1) Their biggest buyer, 2) The best installer, 3) The next best installer. :)

"Flagstone" is not a geological type of stone (like granite, limestone, sandstone, etc.) It's a catch all term that generally describes the shape and form ... any relatively thin, flat, broad stone. Round river rocks, or any type of boulder or blocky stone would not be considered flagstone. Think flat and thin ... like a flag. Stone types that cleave naturally into layers make flagstone. Generally, it could come in a variety of thicknesses from 1.5" or so, to 3" or 4" for some types of large pieces, depending on the type of stone and where it comes from. The larger the stone is, the thicker it needs to be. Large, thin stones break very easily. The way it is used is similar to the way tile is used -- to cover an area as a surface, as opposed to being used structurally, (though this is not impossible.) So, there are LOTS of different flagstones with varying characteristics. Some are very popular and shipped across the country. If one happens to be far from where they are quarried, their cost will be high. Usually, because people are most always searching for lower cost, there is a tendency to use flagstone that comes from a nearby source. One must have familiarity with the specific stone type in order to know its durability. A cheaper stone could be more durable than high priced stone as durability is likely not the prime pricing criteria. In landscaping, flagstone is popular as a DIY material on account of its rustic looks and ease of use when laid on a sand base. If mortar is used, it is usually laid by a pro or a dedicated DIY homeowner. IMO, what makes a big difference in the quality of the finished product of flagstone is the joints: tight or narrow, uniform joints look much better. Wide, irregular joints look much more amateurish. Making good joints requires more work/time as edges must be cut or chipped in order to fit next to edges of adjacent stones. That would be a big part of the cost of an installation. I would be willing to guess that such a specification is not included in your proposal so as to hold the price down. Many people do not pay attention to edge detail so wouldn't know the difference anyway. Regardless of the details of your installation, one thing I would never do is install a walk like this without FIRST GETTING SAMPLES! And comparing them on site to other elements and the surroundings. Doing so would answer your primary question about what the overall character of the walk is going to look like, especially color. IMO, blues, greys, taupes, etc. go well with most surroundings and lean classy, whereas yellowish or orangey tones seem less classy. But this depends on the colors of other things, like the house. Color is one reason someone would be willing to pay a higher price to have stone shipped across the country.