Check out Martha Stewart's web site, she did a project painting the inside of the bottles. Paint does have a shelf life. You wouldn't think so but it does. If painting the inside doesn't work, go for painting the outside. Acrylic paints don't stick to glass very well and there is a "glass medium" made by Folk Art Paints that you can use to coat the inside of the bottle first. (For painting on the outside of glass, you brush it on and let it dry overnight and then acrylic paint will stick to it.) Check out "Donna Dewberry's Painting on Glass" books at the craft stores or Walmart. In the beginning of the book she explains about glass painting - her trick is to use "enamel paint" which sticks to the glass very well. I'd painted on windows using it and still have to go two or three coats to get a good build up of the paint for what I was making. Also, enamel paint is made to withstand the outdoor elements and you don't need a sealant with it. However, if you want to use a sealant (on the acrylic or the enamel paints), get one that is for outdoors. Check in the decorative paint section at Michael's. I think your glow in the dark bugs would be awesome. Hope your project works and hope you'll share pics with us. Sal

They do make bullnose tiles for edges that have a rounded edge. If the tile that you are using does not have edge pieces that you can get, you could pick an accent tile to border it that has bullnose tiles, use a decorative tile molding (pencil, dental, etc.), caulk the edge, or lightly sand and stain the edge to match the rest of the tile (last resort). We do that with travertine in the showers (not sure exactly how the tile guy does that).

Thanks for the comments and I will check out the rolled veneer. I've posted this on the wood working forum as well so I'm getting a little confused about posting, new to this, but the feed back so so helpful! The problem is sending it to be painted if it is rolled up. You can tell we have never done this before. We thought that getting the doors painted with car paint they would be more durable, which we think they are. But we tried to match the paint on our own, to do the finishing bits, and it hasn't worked. So it looks like we will need to send all the finishing pieces to be painted as well. We thought about the 1/8 inch skin for it but don't know how to attach it or finish the edge or where to get it. I've included an additional photo of the kitchen there is a bit more done since this last photo was taken.

Usually with cover panels you will have two options: 1) A flat slab (it sounds like you'll be getting oak doors, so this would be a quarter/rift sawn oak veneer). This flat slab panel will usually be edge-banded on the front edge but can sometimes have a thicker piece of solid wood on the front edge as an upgrade. -or- 2) A panel that basically matches your doors. (It looks like your designer was recommending you not choose this option.) For larger applications, such as island/peninsula ends or refrigerator end (the cover panel on the left or right side of a refrigerator opening) this panel (if matching a traditional panel-in-frame door style such as Shaker) will usually have center stiles or rails to help support the structure of the panel and also to visually break up the panel into segments. These center stiles or rails can be strategically placed to match the height/locations of stiles and rails found elsewhere in your kitchen. An example of this might be placing a center rail (the horizontal frame member that divides the inner panel) at the same height as the upper rail on the doors on your base cabinets. This would create visual continuity. Usually the backs of peninsulas can have several center stiles (vertical dividing frame members.) Usually these center stiles are placed every 12" to 15". These panels are sometimes referred to as wainscot panels. We tend to recommend to customers that these cover panels get sized so that their front edges sit flush with the fronts of your doors and drawer fronts. Sometimes people will have their cover panels on upper cabinets drop an inch or two below the frame of the cabinet so that they can fit light rail molding between the two cover panels and below the cabinet box (this would be in lieu of cutting your light rail molding to have mitered returns back to the wall.)