Here's basically what the text says: Solitärpflanze, age about 15 years, width approx. 60 cm, height of approx. 30 cm. Botani name: Pinus mugo pumilio "type Tirol" German name: Dwarf Bergkiefer Description: The selection type Tirol from Pinus mugo pumilio is a speciality of the nursery garden Helmers. We cultivate each year several 10,000 plants of this selection. The plants come of mother plants, which grow highly above in the Italian alps. From this seeds only the compact and shortnoble types are out-selected. These are then cut separately by hand of our gardners each year in form, so that they train the typical race-like character. Intended purpose: In the single conditions in the mountain garden, rock-garden, heath garden, for graves. Also in groups very beautiful, laminar ensembles let themselves planted be formed. In the Japan garden fantastically as wavy cut surface planted. By the nature location in the alps the dwarf Bergkiefer highly above needs a very sunny not to moisten location. Then absolutely wash and wear, an annual a shortening of the new impulses in May/June around half promotes a still more compact stature. In the excavator bucket planted also without winter protection absolutely frost-hard. Pinus mugo mungus 'Tyrolean' = Pinus mugo pumilio "type Tirol" how did we get there? Thanks Steg for chiming in. Funny... my last name is Stegmaier but I can't speak a word of German. 3 generations from my relatives that could. Dave

You ready for a crazy answer: Get some scissors and cut off anything that's brown. Don't worry about sterilizing between cuts. Once you've finished, move it to a temporary site that is morning sun only or a few three hours or less of afternoon sun. Check to see timing applications with that systemic and hit it again if you're able to do so. Leave any buds that appear healthy (even if the foliage around them is brown. Use the healthy foliage clusters as a guide to determine which to keep). Conifers won't like the power of Sulphur fungicide. I'd be reluctant to use anything, except, Copper. Also, fertilize this plant to help strengthen it along for any insects/diseases that will try to attack it. I would fertilize it every other week with Mir-acid (water one week, fertilizer the next), ceasing fertilization the second week of August. Then at the very beginning of when the snow starts falling but when the ground isn't frozen, "any given day" to send a last jolt of energy to the roots for when next spring roles around. Next year - fertilize it once a month. That should be enough. If you got it to rebound, move it during Spring 2012 to a new location, far from where it is now. In the meantime, keep on with the copper until you see improvement. It will be especially important for you to spray a fungicide just as the buds are opening, beginning of next year; then when the new growth needles are fully extended, and when you can see a bud being formed/auxiliary growth (next year - about this time of year or a few weeks ago). Always spray on a cool day when temps are at or below 65 degrees, never when it's past 70 degrees F. ---- I believe this is the wild answer you're looking for. Mulch it, wait and see what happens. ---- Option B: Burn it and plant something else in that location ;0) Dax

june isnt the best time for planting conifers ... minutes before the heat of summer ... but based on that planting.. its all related to transplant shock ... i wouldnt be thinking disease ... but it sounds like you did great with watering ... half mulch.. half rock ... better than a sharp stick in the eye .. i am wondering if that wall retains heat in winter... S or SW facing??? .. did you protect it from direct sun for a week or so.. after planting??? where does the prevailing winter wind come from ... also in regard to that wall ... is it protected by the wall ... or does the wall funnel right past a plant in winter sun ... you are the second to mention winter watering ... its a very foreign concept to me.. i dont do that.. where the ground freezes solid ... and i am wondering.. how much water.. a dormant tree needs ..????? does you ground freeze solid in your z5???? .. if so.. you should not have been watering .... boy.. if i guessed.. i wouldnt have guessed that was a mugo ... but then.. i am not into the science of IDing ... you need a seller with a better reputation ... mail order from such ... ask for the manager ... and see if you get the same nonsense .... this was exactly why you got a warranty .... i would give it another month .. to see if the buds are alive ... then make a decision ... its planted rather close to the house.. for its potential ... those leaders grew what looks... 6 to 8 inches last year ...laterals.. maybe 6 ... inside 5 years.. it will be on the house ... a replacemtn should go at least 3 to 5 feet further away or you need a plant with less potential ... do understand.. whether a plant is called a dwarf or a mini ... its all about the annual growth rate .. all size estimates are at ten years.. in the conifer world.. and at 20 .. you can presume it will be twice as big ... by looking for how much it grew last year... you can generate an annual growth rate .. and do your own multiplication .. if you want to search out mail order plants.. i have had a lot of luck with conifer kingdom ... call them.. and describe your spot.. if you get overwhelmed with the website ... unless you bare rooted the plant ... you do not know if it was root bound ... back two or 3 pot sizes ago ... did you amend your planting hole.. in your clay?? you have to at least wait.. until the local pines bud out.. before you will know much of anything ... here in my z5 MI ... that is weeks from now ... ken

He is probably the best specialty conifer nursery in Northern CA. People routinely drive from Sacramento or San Jose to shop there. I agree, he should update his website, but like many small businesses, he uses Facebook much more than rely on his website. When he has a new shipment he posts the entire inventory on Facebook. He also is the best pond retailer (pond materials, fish, etc) around.