Here's another photo of a different leaf

Hi, I, like mostly everyone here, have a little story to tell about my fiddle leaf figs. I have a few of them that have gone through the painful (for me at least) repotting and separating, propagating etc process. I have 10 of them in different stages of growth, and aside from a baby one that's still in process of maturing, all the other ones are doing great. Or so I thought until I notice that some of the new leaves that came out since the repot (followed Al's soil formula found here) have these tiny brown spots and some cracking happening on the leaves. Apparently it's a leaf spot disorder caused by a bacteria, Xanthomonas campestris, which produces tan-to-brown dry spots on leaves that usually have irregular margins and can cause cracking of the leaf in the driest areas. Anyone here dealt with that and has some advice as to what to do and how to treat this? Thank you so much!

Please find the photos here..

Your plant would do better if you watered according to the plant's needs instead of according to the calendar. Use a wooden tell, stuck deep into the pot to "tell" you when it's time to water. I'll leave something I wrote about using a 'tell' at the end of the post. In addition to over-watering, the reduction in light between the nursery/greenhouse where your plant was cultivated and where it's currently sited can cause leaf loss, though it's unlikely the leaves being shed would look like those in your images. Also, a high level of dissolved solids in the soil solution (salts from tap water and fertilizers, can produce symptoms as illustrated either actively or passively. Plants grown under heavy photo load (bright light) and good soil moisture levels can be fertilized at luxury rates without issues. The same plants that thrive with high light and high fertility can present as being over-fertilized just by moving them to a spot with lower light levels, so you should plan to flush your soil in the very near future if you haven't been doing that when you water. If you need help with that - just ask. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al