Thanks so very much everyone. I really appreciate each of your kind replies and helpful information, I learned a lot! I get tired just thinking of doing all of this and the sink isn't leaking or anything as it's superficial at this point, but it's true that it could rust the cast iron once it starts to penetrate the coating but I am thinking that is a long way off. Boy, did I learn a lesson, never cheat a bigger sink into a smaller cabinet. It looks fine and not too big but the cabinet sides on the inside are where the problems begin. Not to mention another lesson I learned is that I had some left over granite but they offered to cut it for a large demilune furniture piece top in my foyer. I am wishing I had that piece now. I am not sure it would have been big enough just for the section around the sink but I will never know now. Thank you for the compliments on the kitchen, I am the no clutter queen but looking at that picture maybe I should let up a little on that, ha ha. When this is resolved I'll let you know what happened. It may be awhile! Linelle, I hope the problem with the sink base was answered for you in the helpful posts above. Thanks so much appreciate the kind words.

Hello... There is a saying that the kitchen is the meeting room of the home. With that being said, yes , you could attempt to repair a damaged cabinet, but to what extent is it damaged? Sounds like the doors are in good shape. But it is the base i believe for what you are referring to. When it is all repaired ( the cabinet ) will it be noticable? DO you care if it is not repaired correctly? If so, then you should think about replacing the entire cabinet base and save yourself some grief. Here is a link that might be useful: Bergen County Contractors

Ply is never the preferred substrate for any type of veneer covering, metal included. MDF and contact cement is the preferred method. Be very very careful with handling the stainless. It's not at all easy to get the dents out. It's a very unforgiving material. I wouldn't use a ceramic tile front edge on it anywhere either, or use a topmount sink. That 100% defeats the primary reason to use metal for a counter: seamlessness. You might as well be doing laminate as do that. You're not getting any of the benefit of a metal counter at all, including the integral sink. You want to go down into the industrial section of town and find a metal fabricator who can create a folded edge for the counter. They'll use a break to bend it over and you'll just glue it to the substrate. I'd get them to also do a 2" backsplash rather than doing the tile as well. They can weld the sink in, and you'll have the total seamlessness which is why people do stainless counters.

Andy: "Here you go." above is a link to the sink you should use. I've done your exact job at least 5 times. The corner reveals may not match perfectly, but that's a small price to pay for a single bowl sink.