OptiMax Eco Resilient Flooring
J B
2 years ago
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Comments (182)
Karen Kernen
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correct installation of tile
Comments (6)Okay-- one at a time: Is applying Versabond directly to plywood (kitchen counter) This can be done, and in fact it's the way I build my countertops-- two layers of 3/4" ply. However, I don't recommend going directly over plywood for DIYers, and in fact, many pros, as well. To start with, Versabond, although it says on the bag that it'll stick to plywood, it won't last very long. You need something with a pliable and tenacious bond, such as Mapei's Kerabond thinset mixed with their Keralastic additive. Additionally, there are many other pitfalls in setting directly over plywood and it's not something I'd really recommend unless you're very familiar with what you're doing. You'd be much better off to instead, use a layer of 3/4" ply, a layer of 1/2" ply, and then either Ditra or 1/4" cement board. You definitely want two layers of plywood underneath, though. bare cement (basement floor) As alice siad, it depends on the condition. If you have alot of cracks in the floor, you may want to put a membrane down first, such as Ditra. If there are only a couple, you might get away with just using a crack supression membrane over the cracks such as Laticrete's 9235 (Blue 92). But membraning the entire floor would be good insurance. One very important note, though-- if you DO have cracks in the slab, check them very carefully. if on ANY ONE of those cracks, one side is higher than the other, you might want to go with a different flooring. There's not a membrane made that'll protect tile from vertical movement between the two sides of a cracked slab. or existing (tight) vinyl tile (kitchen floor) This is copied and pasted from the flooring page of my website: This is a subject that's very hotly debated within the industry. It seems every manufacturer has a thinset that they say can be used over resilient flooring (sheet vinyl) or vinyl tile. The problem with that is twofold. With all the different types of vinyl flooring out now, it's tough to know which ones can, and which ones can't be tiled over. Cushioned vinyl's are out. They can compress, causing voids under the tile, ultimately causing failure. Also, not all sheet vinyl is glued solid to the floor. A lot of times, vinyl installers will only glue the edges and spot glue in the center, and if you thinset the tile to it, it won't stay very long. In my opinion, vinyl tiles are out, as well, due to the fact that the thinset bond is only as good as the bond of the surface under it, and I've seen vinyl tiles ( especially peel and stick) let go way too easily. The same is also true for sheet vinyl. The second problem with tiling over vinyl is the underlayments used for vinyl installation. Normally, in woodframe construction, there are one of several underlayments used-- luan, 1/4" particle board, 1/4" plywood, and sometimes even MDF (medium density fiberboard). ANY of those in a tile subfloor is a guaranteed failure. 1/4" plywood has a nasty habit of delaminating (the layers come apart). Luan has the same problem, plus it can compress to 1/2 its original thickness from normal residential foot traffic (I've seen this happen). Particle board (as well as MDF), just from humidity, can expand enough to pop tile loose. Any of those can cause failure, and unless you pull the vinyl, you don't know for sure whether the vinyl installer just went over the existing subfloor, or added one of the underlayments mentioned. All in all, it's an extremely risky installation, and my question is why, when spending the money it costs for a tile installation, would you want to gamble on it? Here is a link that might be useful: My website's floors page...See MoreTell me about your laminate kitchen floor
Comments (38)Traditionally, kitchens are wet areas, and although the better glued laminates allow for moisture and water mitigation by sealing raw/cut edges, in my humble opinion, laminates/woods belong no where near a bathroom, kitchen, or recreational bar/water/utility area. Ceramic, stone, or resilient flooring is best for those areas. I prefer resilient sheet vinyl or linoleum. 25 or so years ago, I installed, at the time Armstrong's highest quality residential flooring, Designer Solarian inlaid resilient sheet vinyl in our kitchen, bathrooms, and behind the bar and laundry room in the basement. To this day those floors are enjoying a good life with no problems other than a minor amount of wear layer abrasion (scuffs and tiny scratches) typical in resilients. Over 25 years and still counting for one flooring purchase. That is value. Flooring is an investment when purchasing top of the line products. Most often you are making a more economical choice for the life of your home because your maintenance and replacement costs are much lower as you will be replacing them MUCH less frequently. They feel better, look better, and last longer....See MoreConsidering porcelain tile in kitchen
Comments (28)I have black and white 12" tiles and black grout like Elizabeth, but mine are straight to feel right in our old farmhouse. The kitchen entrance is used almost exclusively, so the tile handles the grit, snow, and mud that comes in from the gravel drive without any issue. We have in-floor radiant heat, so it is toasty warm in winter and cool in summer. I've lived with this floor for 17 years, and the floor in my previous house was tile as well. It wears well (I am not into renovation for the sake of newness), cleans easily, and looks as good as the day we installed it. Ours has a bit of a gritty texture that prevents it being slick if it's wet, and I think I've only broken 2 items in 30+ years in the two tiled kitchens. I don't find it is hard on my body, but I usually wear supportive shoes when I cook since I don't want to worry about burns or injury from dropped items when I am cooking....See MoreLVT- the good the bad the everything
Comments (70)Well I am never quick to do anything it seems. I didn't realize I had started the thread as it says " last year". Anyway after obsessing and trying to find thee one.... I am really close to pulling the trigger. I know there are a lot of very fine brands out there that offer good value, but I am just a bit too chicken to coordinate ordering this stuff remotely and having it delivered here. I have done that with furniture and its fine but I cannot fathom doing it for lvp. (that's my issue). I actually had someone come to measure and give an estimate and am having one more come in a few days so at least I will have a ballpark idea of what will be involved for real in my situation. I am 95% going with CoreTec at this point and will be getting it from a local store. Their price is decent- not stellar but decent. They have a good reputation and I just don't want to spend thousands and have the manufacturer not stand behind it. I sincerely hope I don't need the manufacture to stand behind it, but it's a concern I have. To the best of my understand, the wear layer is a key component. Some say at least 12 mil is good. I am going for 20. That's my elimination process. I started out looking for super pale and uniform in color and have kind of evolved to medium tone and varied color. It's an adventure....See MoreChristopher Ser
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