Is it necessary to remove old grass before topsoil and reseeding?
Ruby Bahian
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Ruby Bahian
2 years agoRuby Bahian
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Question about installing new sod over old grass in Georgia
Comments (12)Since you're in Cumming Ga, I thought you might want to check out one of the better landscaping companies in the State, who just happens to be right down the road from you. I'm not affiliated, but just wanted to pass them on as they do excellent work. As for your soil, it is typical of GA soil in that it has a very low exchange capacity. This means that it won't hold nutrients very well, which can be offset by using slow-release fertilizers, or by improving the soil with the addition of compost. My soil supplier is on the south side of Atlanta, but I'm sure SEL could recommend someone local if you're doing the work yourself. Also, it's been a closely held belief for years that Centipede doesn't perform well in a pH above 6 (I shared this opinion for 15 years). Texas A&M shed some new light on this a few years back with a mass-cultivar study in which they grew every cultivar of Centipede at a pH of 8.0. The trick was that they supplemented with chelated iron, otherwise the grass would have lost all color. The study proved that the issue was that iron tends to be less exchangeable as the pH increases, this leads to chlorosis (iron loss), which Centipede is very sensitive to. However the root systems in the higher pH levels grew much deeper. The lessen there was that with a pH that's just slightly acidic, like yours, you can actually have a more drought tolerant stand, but you will need to supplement with iron during the growing season (part of a normal centipede program anyway). The ideal pH recommended by most extension agents (Texas A&M included) is still 5 to 6, but again that is based on iron uptake. Here is a link that might be useful: South Eastern Landscape Contractors...See MoreReseeding Plan - glyphosate or not?
Comments (56)Some are overachievers and worse, morning people. I had germination on day 5 in absolutely terrible weather conditions. Some of your seed will be slackers and sit around playing their X-Box, finally getting around to sprouting sometime close to day 30. Cultivars vary in their sprout date as well. If memory servers, and it might not, the Compact-America grasses sprout a little faster while Compact-Midnight group grasses are notoriously slow. It's a great indication that you're providing good sprouting conditions, though, so you know you're doing everything right....See MoreLawn spotty issue because no topsoil
Comments (13)Thank you guys. All are useful for us coz we don't have experience to deal with landscapers. This is our first single family house. For dchall_san_antonio's questions, they watered our lawn more than 3 times a week. When the house was settled, our yards were just seeded, so they were covered by straws. It's all our water, the first month water bill was almost $500 after we moving in in October. We are not watering the lawn now because 1, the spring season here now have enough rain water, and 2, it's really not worth to water the lawn that has so many stones. We are still in the 1 year of warranty, and expect the issue to be fixed before the warranty is expired. However, the landscaper is not very responsible, and even hard to talk them. I called their contact 3 times a day, never got a chance to talk him, and his mail box is full. We asked the builder whether they have other vendors, they said unfortunately, this is the only landscaper they have in the contract. Now, we can go find other landscapers by ourselves, but that means we will break the warranty... frustrated......See MoreLandscape front entry (before neighbour installs artificial grass)
Comments (24)Apparently your neighbor's irrigation system is working and yours is not :-) Kidding aside, your grass looks like it needs just generally better care ... watering, edging, dethatching, etc.... and eventually, more light as the tree grows. That is so cool to have the barcodes on the neighbor's edge restraint. Will be a great way to help future archeologists in your area research people of our time. :-) Meanwhile, I'd slap a brick/paver mowing strip along that edge, matching its height, and then feather the grade on your side, by adding a little topsoil, to the top of the mowing strip. The grass will easily grow through it to the new height. When you do the drive, widen/flare it enough at the street to meet where the curb becomes full height. I don't have an objection to stamped concrete as long as the installer is well qualified. (Too many novices have to cut their teeth somewhere and need to be avoided.) Example. "I tend to like the look of light driveways with darker borders as well." That's going to make the prettier driveways harder to recognize! :-) Having more experience with pavers, I can't speak knowledgeably of fading issues of stamped concrete. Maybe someone who has more experience with it will know and can chime in. I once did a commercial patio where they were trying to cut the budget. We ended up with UNCOLORED stamped concrete. It was surrounded by a 12" wide plain border and the field was stamped with basketweave brick. It was quite handsome and vastly dressier than plain, unadorned concrete. A side benefit was that there would never be issues with chipping either (which if you've seen stamped concrete that has had a fair amount of chipping or surface wear, it can bring the look down.)...See MoreRuby Bahian
2 years agodchall_san_antonio
2 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years agodchall_san_antonio
2 years agolindac92
2 years agoRuby Bahian
2 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years agodchall_san_antonio
2 years ago
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)