@AJD. I know this an old post, but I am curious as to what the tile is in your original post? Was that a backsplash tile or countertop? If it was for your countertop, please let me know what it is as I really like the look of it. Only difference is that I am looking for a lighter European White Oak LVP, SPC with minimum of 20 mil and natural or micro bevel. Having the hardest time finding something!

We had planned to install the Coretec Grande Lotte Oak; however have ultimately chosen another color. I have approx 1,500 sq ft available for sale -- willing to offer deeply discounted pricing. We are located in WI but can ship. Pls contact me at jwire@tds.net if interested.

Thanks for the input so far. eld6161 - yes, SW Florida, about 10 minutes from the beach :). The bedrooms are even more beachy than this shows. Thanks for the suggestion. SJ McCarthy - you have a good eye. Yes - it's travertine in the great room. BUT (and it's a big one) the hall and kitchen are 12x12 ceramic, and no transition to the travertine. The dining room is yet a different 12x12 ceramic - it coordinates pretty well, but was laid incorrectly and has no transition either. The travertine (which was there when we bought it) also has some big "flaws" in spots we can't cover. (Ok - maybe part of the variation but no one who has seen it would have accepted them....) We had to replace the bedroom carpet so we put down "looks nice/inexpensive while we decide further". Your estimate is about right to low on 'all tile' - about 1500 sq feet of tile to take out, then 2500 to put down - which is why we are talking about LVP. So - a few options now that we're this far into the story: * Leave carpet in the bedrooms, and tile the rest. My husband would likely prefer this. We're from the north and he just can.not.imagine hard surface flooring in the bedrooms. Of course, it's a split plan layout, and 3 bathrooms. If we do this we then have to decide if bathrooms match common area (probably yes)...and find hard surface that works with the carpet (probably doable). Still probably $20k+ since we'd have to remove existing and redo. * Bite the bullet and put hard surfaces everywhere now - whether tile or LVP. Part of the issue is that, while we aren't looking to sell in the foreseeable future, we would not likely get the money out from tile vs LVP. * Leave it as it is for a while. I'd like to decide now as we're redoing the master bathroom in the next six months (starting to get design work now) and if we're putting hard surface down I'd like it to be the same we're putting elsewhere. If we decide to keep carpet in the bedrooms it's less of an issue - can't see master bath from anywhere but our room and this may be where we end up. But if for some reason there was an LVP we love, it might sway us away from this. Again - really appreciate the insights and looking forward to more of them -

The 'change' is not in opinion...it is in YOUR location. The original concept for THAT poster = slab above grade. Yours is BELOW grade. Gluing down is always a risk below grade. We MUST assume your slabs vapour barrier has been breached. MUST. It is the ONLY safe way to approach this. Your sales person is doing her job. She has experienced the difference between a glue down (over well prepared concrete) vs a floating floor that was POORLY prepared. Yes. There is a difference. The DIFFERENCE in 'feeling' is in the 'proper' vs. 'poorly' prepared concrete. A well prepared subfloor = a solid feeling floor. Always. That adds a huge amount of cost to your project for a glue down option. You would need to add in $3-$5/sf for concrete SEALING...and then you start dealing with the installation/floor prep costs. A glue down vinyl is top of the table...yep. It is what gets 40-50 years out of a floor. The COST is staggering. The adhesive adds another $2/sf to the cost of the floor....especially below grade. And yes, any slab that has even 1" of it below the surface of the ground means the ENTIRE THING is considered 'under ground' = below grade. That's how it is supposed to be looked at. If you do not want the chemicals, then go with floating. Remember: your concrete must be flat....that can add $3/sf to prepare. And you need a vapour barrier (10mil polyethylene sheeting) and then the vinyl can be put down. A floating floor = more expensive to purchase but cheaper to install (all the way around). Your sales person may not be educated in MOISTURE mitigation. Even a single course on moisture mitigation (4 hours) will illuminate her and would allow her to understand a glue down floor vs. a glue down BELOW grade. Two very different beasts.