Andersen and Marvin are generally what is considered a Patio door and will have a much different sill or threshold which will be approximately 1 1/2" in height where an entry door will have a fairly flat threshold. I would look at T.T. myself and use a fiberglass unit, either Smooth Star or Embossed and purchase it from a lumberyard and not a box store.

Your starting parameters are much too wide. First, I would decide whether you want wood, vinyl, fiberglass, aluminum or a composite. Then, I would decide the maximum amount you have to spend. Once you make those decisions, you can start to focus in on what window is the best based on your needs. From there you can go about the process of finding an istaller who is experienced at installing the type of window you are interested in. Here's a brief primer: Wood frame-Good insulator, looks good especially in older homes, mid to upper price range, requires occassional painting or stain. Prone to rotting if not maintained. Fiberglass-Good insulator, can be painted any color inside and out, high to upper price range, will not rot. Composite- Good insulator, can be painted, not prone to rot, high to upper price range. Vinyl- Good insulator, colors limited usually only available in white or beige, should not be painted, will not rot, low to mid price range. Aluminum- Poor insulator, colors are limited but can be painted, not prone to rot but is prone to pitting, especially in coastal areas, low to mid price range. This is just generic information to help get you started. There are some very good quality windows in each material and some very poor quality products as well.

I strongly recommend that you avoid Marvin Windows. In 2011 I spent thousands installing what I believed to be high-end durable Marvin windows: 6 casements and 3 double hung. The casements are not durable and wear poorly. Within the first year, the hardware was broken and on several occasions I was unable to close one window (an "utlimate" casement with transom). The casement hardware is cheap and poorly designed. Here are specifics: 1 - Antique brass hardware on three casements is not solid and the finish peels and bubbles. Screws rusted, loosened and now protrude from the handles. In addition, the hardware is loose -- it jiggles when turning the handle. 2- The locking mechanism on the "ultimate" casement gets stuck on occasion. My contractor had to come open my window this week because it was cold -- there was a 1/4 inch gap between the two panels. In addition, the bottom sill is loose. 3 - Second floor casement windows have plastic hardware that are also loose. The tongue into which the lock slides keeps falling out. No problems with the double hung windows, which have solid metal hardware. To be clear, the problem is with the manufacturing, not with the distributor (Super Enterprises) which has been responsive. BOTTOM LINE: If you NEVER OPEN your windows, consider Marvin. Otherwise, look elsewhere.

I would be considering triple panes for your location . The 400 does not have them and I’m not sure the somewhat equivalant lower Marvin ones do either. The 400 is somewhat equivalant to the Marvin Elevate I would give the the edge to Elevate in looks and price to 400 but this can vary by opinion in look and price by dealer. The Marvin Essential might fit the bill to it’s slimmer lines and maybe lower price. I would take the time to look at them in person. If tou wanted triple pane in Anderson you would need to to the A-Series or E -Series , they both cost more then the 400 plus the cost of triple pane. The Marvins are gonna follow suit if not available in there lower lines. I would ask about lead times as well as they are different between lines within brands and even colors. Make sure to look at the glass packages as well as there are many different options outside of double pane vs triple pane.