That's a great point about a mirror in that spot reflecting natural light back into the room. I think you would really love having very deep counters there too. Deep counters would also allow you to put sizable sinks in, which is a real benefit, IMO. Re: the shower. Unfortunately, I don't know how to do a drawing here. Let me see if I can describe what I mean better. The shower would be a walking, triangular, in the footprint of the jacuzzi tub there now. Facing the tub, there would be a glass wall coming out from the wall where your long vanity is going out to where it would meet the shower door joint. Shower door would be where the jacuzzi tub faucet is, right in the center there, facing the corner where the two sets of windows meet, attached to two glass panels on either side of the door. But then, where the shorter, single-sink vanity is now, imagine cutting that vanity, say, 1/3 from the right, so you have 2/3 of that space on the left. On the left you'd have a built-in cabinet to hold towels and such. On the right, the shower walls would be extend to include that area inside the shower with shelving to hold shampoo bottles, razors, etc. In other words, the shower would comprise of the entire window area. You'd have to speak to a plumber about where the faucets and shower head would be situation. You want to be able to reach your shampoo bottles w/o having to walk across the shower to get them and put them back. Maybe a shower head in the ceiling in the center of the shower? However, with glass walls and doors, you'll definitely want a hand shower nozzle in there too for cleaning, so it'd have to be figured out where that would go, probably by the shelving, near the old small single-vanity sink, since there is a water source right there. Knobs to turn on both the overhead shower and the hand shower could be on that slice of wall there vertically. You'd have to get into the shower to turn them on, though. Add some teak benching under the left window for shaving legs (or aging) and so you can reach the hand shower.

This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

I'm assuming from what the OP said that they don't want or need hall access to a bathroom that one of the bedrooms isn't going to be used as a bedroom. I also LOL at how home builders are so overspecific in naming the rooms on their floorplans. Like everyone wants a game room in the middle of all the bedrooms and home office, just the thing to ensure a good night's rest or undistracted working at a desk. One small item I find really irksome in this floorplan: the door to the master bathroom toilet room is ideally positioned to (a) block the entry from the bedroom when open, which it assumedly would be when not in use, and (b) whack the person using the sink when unexpectedly opened from inside. Also, that door to the upper left bedroom is a weird one. Perhaps to keep it from blocking access to the J&J bathroom when open, it's hinged on what would otherwise be the wrong side. As it is, especially since the bedroom closet extends further than the door opening, the door must be opened an awkward 180 degrees to enter the bedroom from the hallway. Another reason that favors making the upper right and lower left bedrooms the two en suites. This post was edited by lee676 on Wed, Jan 21, 15 at 15:32

I had the exact same problem. I picked out the vanity I wanted but did not think about the fact that it wasn't made to sit flush against the wall. I spent a month looking for something else, but in the end we decided to go with something shorter and have it not be against the wall. But we were going from 72" to 60" which is probably not workable in your mom's situation. I did find a lot of vanities that did have flat sides and could work in a corner, if you are willing to have the countertop fabricated. They just need to not have any trim detail on the top or bottom like the one you picked out does. I would just look at the ones without the pre-made tops. Because the pre-made top will still leave you with a slight gap because of the countertop overhang. This is an example: Avanity Modero which is sold everywhere, not just at Lowe's. The cabinet we ended up buying is an Avanity Madison which won't work for you, but I assume it is of similar quality. We are pretty happy with it. The drawers and doors have soft close but I do feel like the glides in my Ikea kitchen drawers are better quality. It is very pretty and I wanted a stained wood so I am really happy with our choice. If I had been willing to go with a painted finish, I think we might have stuck with the 72" Modero.