AJ, I do not have any experience with UMAXX, all I know is claims I have read in the past 30-minutes. My first thought when I read Slow Release Urea 46-0-0; is that is impossible, but after reading the MSDS I an assured it is 46-0-0 as this is government registered information. Looks to be as safe as Urea, almost no warnings, just a minor irritant to eyes, lungs, and skin. No known chronic effects to exposure. Source is synthetic organic same as urea. So it appears to be evirometally friendly. If the product does half of what it claims, I would be impressed, but I am a skeptic. What I cannot find is any independent case study to back any of the manufacture claims up. Not saying they are not true, just cannot verify. My problems and/or blank spots. Â Where to get it? Looks like custom order from TN only, significantly adding to a mystery cost. Â Does it really last 12 to 16 weeks, and if so will it release enough fast enough for aggressive varieties of Bermuda grass such as Tifsport, Tifeagle, etc. If it does the job, and is competitively priced to traditional slow release urea products, then great. Â Since it is an incomplete fertilizer, and I do not see the manufacture offering a complete fertilizer would mean you still need a traditional complete product once in the spring or fall. Put it too you this way. If a rep came to my farm or landscape business, gives me a couple hundred pounds for a sample to try, I would give it an college try. If it does what it says and competitive pricing, I would give it a nod. Last comment is the manufacture states the product or technology has been used in UK since the 60's. So if someone can point me to where to verify and independent studies i would appreciate it.

Enjoyed the links posted here. Here's my own 2 cents on this. I do all the seeding for a CSA (about 70 boxes per week), sow about 300 lettuce seeds a week for 7 months straight. The first and second year made many mistakes and got poor germination. Putting lettuce trays on heat mats did reduce greatly the germination rate. Putting the trays in a unheated hoop house also didn't work, it got too hot during the day. Now we just leave them outside. In spring gets down to 45F at night, maybe 55F during day. We use automatic overhead sprinklers, so the trays get over watered every day. Our seedling table must provide water for all the seedlings so must water enough for the largest plants. To prevent damping off, use a 1:1 perlite:peat mix (Black Gold seedling mix) with some sifted compost included 4:1 mix:compost. The overall mix is light and airy. A coir based mix didn't work, stayed too wet. Use only solid fertilizers, liquid ones get washed away with the overwatering. For the mix, I add in crabshell meal (Eliot Coleman recommendation), greensand, and soft phosphate. When I added in bloodmeal or fish meal to the mix I got damping off. To much available nitrogen. When the seedlings are about an inch tall, I sprinkle a mixture of bloodmeal and sifted compost over them. This gives them the needed nitrogen and once an inch high, I've never had any damping off. To save time I never tap the seeds into the mix. After filling the tray with mix, just drop/bang the tray against the table 4 times to get the mix to settle to a good firmness. Put the seeds on top and add a layer of fine vermiculite and overhead water. The fine vermiculite layer noticeably increased our germination rate on all seeds. Keeps the top moist and more importantly protects an emerged seedling from fungus. The vermiculite is sterile.

Well, i don't know if it helps seedlings break through the seed coat, but I do know that soaking seeds in a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide for 10-30 minutes, followed by at least 10 rinses in clean water will kill any pathogen growing on the outside of the seed. Germination appears increase after this sterilization because some seeds get attacked by pests as soon as germination begins and the embryo is destroyed before it even emerges from the soil. This is routinely done in plant research laboratories to prevent powdery mildew, mold etc. It also prevents damping off. You can also use a 3% solution of bleach, as long as the hypochlorite level is low: javex is an excellent brand. The cheaper bleaches are not as pure and won't have the same effect. As for the hydrogen peroxide, I'd recommend using a food grade solution. As for a 'biological' explaination, hydrogen peroxide is a plant signalling molecule (like ethylene) used by the plant to mediate pathogen and environmental stress responses. It also *MAY* help in root development. I've heard of some people actually watering or spraying plants with low doses of hydrogen peroxide to help plants overcome pathogen attack, or make them hardier if a pathogen make its way into the garden. Personally, I don't like spraying my plants with too many chemicals, and if you do have a diseased plant, it is better to sacrifice it before it infects everything else. Plus, not much is known about hydrogen peroxide plant signalling yet, the hydrogen peroxide may stop pathogen attack, but what else is it telling your confused plant to do?

I live in Florida and have many plants and seedlings growing. Cutting are a faster way to get fruit..12-18 months. Seeds take up to 6 years! You need one main shoot to climb a pole 5 ft tall. Any that come out on the sides should be removed. You want all you strength to go up. YouTube has great video of this process and why you do this. You can plant 4 shoots to 1 pole and different makes for better cross pollination. My cuttings were planted last Nov. and are over my poles with new shoots 18" long. Greenman is right..water and fertilize! Rose