I would like to chime in again in response to hollysprings' post. I do appreciate her insight, and others who are way more knowledgeable about this stuff than I. I agree that there are often circumstances that we may not be aware of that drive costs up, but let's face it, for many of us the construction industry is an enigma and it is already so hard to sift the wheat from the chaff. It only makes it harder for us when they don't let us know what goes into an estimate and we are left in the dark. Not only trying to find someone upstanding, but also someone who you get along with and understands your goals in the project. And I do think we should know the separation of labor and materials at least in some basic context. Obviously there is some range of cost that they have taken into account in order to come up with a lump sum estimate in the first place. Not to mention their own magic number that they need in order to make a decent living. And yes, there is a difference between nit-picking and getting a range of expected customer's choice driven costs. Shouldn't there be some responsibility on the contractor to let us know what types of allowances they are taking into consideration? I am new to remodeling, much like the OP. Unfortunately there are not many good resources for us noobs to educate ourselves about the construction process, how contractors work, good design, and product knowledge. Which is why I and so many others are on online forums such as this. I have been burned a few times attempting to learn and ask those same questions, like what the driving force is behind estimates and it is very frustrating because many contractors are not able to really articulate these things. What I have experienced is either a well organized design/ hold firm that does high quality work but only wants to work with luxury finishes or small time guys who come recommended by friends and neighbors that don't have a broad range of knowledge of products/design. And then those who do really great jobs for their friends and families but slack off for those who aren't on their Christmas list. No one I have met as a potential or actual client has been particularly interested in answering my questions, except with a short answer and a 'trust me I know what I'm doing'. I do know you get what you pay for and I am able to pay for what I want, but I also want to gain an understanding in what those driving forces are behind the costs. And in my expensive area of the country, it is very easy for me to feel and actually be price gouged.

Skin and bones. If the bones are good, sometimes a simple facelift will suffice. Sounds like your bones are good. If you like the cabinets but not the color, then yes to the following; prep, prime and paint. Behr is fine. If the cathedral doors bug you, you can just replace the doors. There are door resellers online, the prices are not outlandish and you could then get the style of door you like and if you want to paint, the color you like too. I don't think it's too far out of line to replace the countertop, sinks, and faucets. Changing that will bring the vanity into your design world. As far as having to change the tub because you changed the vanity top...really think about it. Can't they be independent of one another? Or are they truly tied together, as a pair? It's certainly your choice. The typical lifetime of cabinetry? As has been mentioned, if it's of decent quality it can last longer than you. Style-wise it might become outdated. Taste-wise you might not prefer it. If you listen to the designers out there who's job it is to come up with the latest and greatest trend, it'll "last" 4-6 months! But tasteful doors in an easy-on-the-eye design can actually be "in style" pretty much forever. Good stuff doesn't go out of style, whether it be modern or traditional. It's appreciated generation after generation, much to the chagrin of the trend-setters. If you did replace the tub, is there any way you could add a border of completely different tile up against the tub and keep your existing tile? It could act as an accent stripe, etc. Just sayin'...there are ways and there are ways. Sometimes you can tinker. If you plan on staying in this house for a while, then the more the current design grates at you, the more I'd encourage you to really go for what you want. Putting your imprint on something and being happy with it can brighten up your day a bit, starting each and every morning.

You know that old saying about expensive stuff ... if you have to ask how much it is, then you can't afford it. That's what I thought as I read your post, regarding the feasability of your proposed timeline. To me this sounds like a lot of work to get done in a fairly short, finite, time span, GC'd by a non-professional without long-standing (and on-going) relationships with all the inter-locking subs and trades. Your project probably doesn't come with the promise of additonal jobs for them over many years so you won't have the leverage a good GC would have to make the necessary, but impossible, things happen to keep such a complicated project on schedule. Is the end date a hope, or a hard date with a CO issued and move in readiness? If you could stand to have it carry on into the winter, then it would be more do-able, I think. The complications will come in integrating all the various tradesmen. For example, you're getting a new roof, but before the roof goes on it would be better to know exactly where the vent stacks for the new furnace and the new bath and kitchen are located. Yes, you can add them later, but you've a better chance at a no-leak roof if they're up before the roof guys get there. You're putting in radiant floor heating (love it BTW), but that means every single tradesman has to know where those lines are, or one gets punctured. Kitchens and baths are notorious for needing sustained, cooperative layers of tradesman. GC's will know which crews get along, which can be counted on to work the extra hour or two in order to prep for the next guy, etc. Do you have to do all this at once? (Regular readers here will know where I'm headed and can skip ahead....) I think old house renovations are best done after you've been in the house for some time. The ideas you have now, especially if you're not working with an experienced old-house minded architect, are surely not going to be as good as what the house will tell you is needed after you've been there for some time. The other reaon to slow things down is that old houses are (in my opinion) must vulnerable to to regrettable owner-caused (though entirely well-meant) damage when they renovated at the beginning of the ownership. Take, just for example, your plan to install radiant floor heating. If you have more than one story, that means you'll be pulling the ceiling of the first floor for access. What the heck you say, you're already planning on pulling the plaster in the walls for insulation. Okay, but I didn't hear you say you'd need to have the walls replastered. Perhaps you think it doesn't matter: sheet rock, even skim-coated sheetrock, vs old plaster, same difference, right? Um, no. Plaster is a lovely-to-live-with amenity that many people just casually disregard, not realizing how intergral it is to their buildings. And you won't know this until you've owned and lived with an old house for awhile and studied the unique concerns that old houses raise for thoughtful, respectful, owners. And of course, there's the money. I would plan on having at least 75% more cash on hand than the wildest estimates you have if you go ahead with this amibitious plan to get it all done by a date-certain. All old house projects have the virtual certainty that more funds will be necessary than you planned (or hoped), but combined with a tight deadline, sometime the only thing that will get you there is extra fees for overtime, express shipping, replacement materials, more expensive solutions, etc. With old houses, there's always a dynamic, usually reciprocal, relationship between time and money: more of one, less of another. Sometimes, more of both. Almost never less of both, alas. And, if you start out with modest experience, tight funds and a very amibitious deadline, you're only setting yourself up for misery and stress. (Read some of the "I hate my house" threads as cautionary tales.) But as discouraging as I know I must sound, I don't want to discourage you from using this resource. Please consider this an invitation to keep coming back for help and encouragement. Welcome to the company of old-house afficionadas. Molly~

Something to start thinking about. Here are three versions. Notes: In layouts 1 & 2, the range is in the same place as it is now. This allows you to begin working around the range immediately. To move it will most likely mean electrical work to install an appropriate electrical outlet. I don't think you will want to start monkeying around with the electrical changes yet. Layout #3 has it moved to where the refrigerator is now. There is plenty of work room for prepping/cooking a meal, baking, and cake decorating. Pantry....there are two options: Pantry cabinets or a built-in pantry. Both can be installed now. They are in the same location in all three layouts, so if you decide to go with one of these layouts, you can install the pantry now, regardless of which one you decide to use.. Option 1, Pantry cabinets: The pantry cabinets I show are 30" wide, but you could put the two 24" ones there for now. Option 2, Built-in pantry: This could also be installed now. The advantages of this option are: You get more storage space overall (floor-to-ceiling storage, no cabinet constraints) The setup allows you to see all of what you have at one time without having to open/close doors/drawers The shelves are shallow enough that things will not get lost. Freezer: It can go where I show the MW center for now. It won't look "pretty", but there's not much you can do to make it look nice at this point. I do think you would be better off getting a different refrigerator with better freezer capacity and configuration. Refrigerator: In the layouts it's a 36" counter-depth refrigerator. It could be a standard depth, but it would stick out another 4 or 5 inches into the kitchen - you have the space, but I don't know if you'll like how it looks. Finished end panels on the sides would help minimize the effect somewhat, but it will still look big. For now, you will probably leave the refrigerator where it is since you don't want to move the water...unless you can do without a water line for now. It's not that difficult to make your own ice cubes for a year or so while you save $$ for plumbing & electric work. One final note - have you considered using IKEA cabinets? They are much less expensive than cabinet lines such as Omega, KraftMaid, etc. You might be able to afford to do it all now if you're willing to consider IKEA. The last time Consumer Reports rated cabinets, IKEA was rate highly. Many GWers have installed IKEA cabinets and they look wonderful! If you're even moderately handy, you can even "hack" IKEA cabinets to get even more options (check out IKEA Fans - linked below.) What's also nice is that they come standard with soft-close drawers and other options that other cabinetmakers either charge quite a bit for or don't offer at all. Layout #1: Layout #2: Layout #3: Here is a link that might be useful: IKEA Fans website