I actually didn't know this, either - but a friend that I delivered some plants to, had one - which is how I know this. I tried it, too, but didn't have any luck. (His was green.) It looked to be a medium-sized leaf - he said it broke off of a plant he had moved, and he didn't know it would root, but tried it anyway, and it was sitting in a cup of water - with many roots. The (two) that I tried, were OLD, huge leaves from my variegated Thai Constellation which were old and browning - which might have led to my non-success.

I currently have it in a ziplock sitting on top of sphagnum moss i got it 2 days ago and kinda got shriveled up not sure if I should keep it how it is or stuck in in water to see if that helps with the wrinkles? Would app any advice!(:

Azredsand, I used a bark mix I came up with many decades ago, proportions vary a bit depending what I'm potting. Availability of fine ground bark has been inconsistent for many of those years, right now it's from Walmart, 1/4 inch pieces mixed with finer particles. I don't sift any ingredients, my regular recipe is 4 to 6 parts bark, 1 to 2 parts commercial peat based potting soil, and 1 to 3 parts perlite. The mix for the monstera cuttings was approximately 5 bark, 1 commercial peat mix, 2 perlite, nothing sifted. This grows excellent aroids and other plants here in central Florida. Talking soil mixes... I often propagate plants in 1 part commercial peat mix and 1 part (or more) perlte. Back in the 70s I used the peat-lite mixes promoted by Elvin McDonald and invented by agriculture departments of University of California and Cornell University. I preferred the UC which was 1 or 2 parts peat moss, 1 part perlite, 1 part vermiculite. Cornell was 1 part each peat and vermiculite. These are still good mixes, especially for gesneriads and begonias. They are nearly sterile so are good for propagating.

The question isn't whether or not the propagule will form roots ..... it has a large adventitious root already attached. If the propagule includes a node (it appears it does), it is capable of producing a complete plant. If it doesn't include a node, it can only produce a plant if the species is capable of de novo regeneration. Though it doesn't look like it's simply a leaf cutting, I can't see what's in the bottle. Something I wrote about the topic: Cuttings (leaf) Many plants can be propagated from leaf cuttings. The pivotal point is whether or not the propagule is capable of forming adventitious buds. Some plants have groups of cells that descend directly from embryonic cells engaged in meristematic activity. These cell groups can differentiate into buds/shoots from foliar embryos that formed as the leaf was forming. More commonly though, wound-induced secondary meristems can form when existing tissues already acting as part of an organ dedifferentiate into NEW meristematic regions (de novo regeneration), then redifferentiate into new organs (buds). If you want to be fairly certain that you'll be successful in your cloning attempts, make sure you include a latent or actively growing axillary bud, which would be located just distal to (above) where the leaf is attached to the stem. The downside to propagating from stem cuttings with a singular leaf in water is that often the bud is destroyed by rot, and/or, the type of root tissue that forms in water is physiologically very different from root tissue that forms in a solid, well-aerated medium. This difference is made manifest in the water-formed roots being very poor at taking up water from a solid medium, along with the fact that water roots are very delicate, almost brittle. As such, they handle the transition from water to soil poorly. Many leaf cuttings will readily produce roots to form 'blind cuttings', which means they are incapable of forming the adventitious buds which are prerequisite to shoot formation. I don't know if your plant is one such, but if it lives on and on w/o forming a stem, you'll at least know the reason. To reiterate, it's best to bring an existing bud along for the ride or be ready for a disappointment. Blind cuttings can live for years, but eventually they collapse for no conspicuous reason. Al