Total rose newbie in zone 5b- are dead canes normal in spring?
bananastand
3 years ago
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joeywyomingzone4
3 years agoMischievous Magpie (CO 5b)
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Consistently cane hardy HTs/floris in zone 5
Comments (39)Ratdogheads - my Henri Matisse stays between around 3-4 feet in a mostly sunny spot, but might be a little larger in a full hot sun location. Suffice to say that planting it behind my Champagne Moment was not one of my brighter ideas, and it involves some judicious pruning to make both of them visible. Redwolfdoc - welcome to the fun of rose growing, and always feel free to start a new thread on a topic where it might get more response. I checked the website HelpMeFind, a TERRIFIC website for roses and well worth the optional membership fee, to look up Blue Angel. Both the regular and climbing versions of Blue Angel appear to be on the edge of reported hardiness for our zone, but those are default ratings so not anything to discourage you. If that rose has survived your winters, that's already a good start. Blue Angel cl. is reported to only bloom on old wood, which means that it won't bloom well if it has to regrow from dying back to its roots or graft each year, which is typical of some types of climbers that survive but don't thrive in our zones. Still, 3 seasons is still way too soon to make a judgment about a climber. They tend to spend more time than non-climbing forms in putting down roots and preparing to make their moves, so if it grows some or is at least green and healthy-looking in the active seasons, you might give it some more time. In my world, alfalfa hay or pellets is always a good thing to add to a rose to boost its production a bit in spring. To give you perspective, my Madame Isaac Periere - that is definitely hardy in my zone - was unexciting and unremarkable for 3-4 years while it was putting down roots. Then last spring in its fifth (?) year, it absolutely ate up every rose near it and was stunning in the spring. There's a standard rose wisdom that for roses, first year sleep, second year creep, third year leap. For climbers, you have to give them another year or two of creeping or sleeping before you get leap years. Hope this helps, and welcome to GW! Cynthia...See MorePlanting z6 roses in 5b?
Comments (22)Hi JessicaBe For what it's worth, I've grown some of the teas you list in a zone 6 pocket in my zone 5b garden for about 4-5 years. I'll post another thread sometime about these when they bloom, but my bottom line reaction is - it depends. Like Seil I enjoy zone pushing and don't spend a lot of money on my tea experiments (all from Chamblees, own root gallons). The results are decidedly "OK", but as expected none of them are as spectacular as they'd be in a warmer zone. Most of them have survived - so far the only ones that died were Safrano and Monsieur Tillier, though Duchesse de Brabant got planted later than I'd have liked last year and isn't doing so well yet. The following tea roses have survived and bloom reasonably well for me: Mrs. B.R. Cant, Madame Antoine Mari, Maman Cochet, Mrs. Dudley Cross, and the best of the bunch has been Georgetown tea (thanks to Olga for the recommendation). Remember that I do winter protect everything in my yard, and the teas get protected first with a full-sized bag of leaves next to them rather than a chopped down third of the bag. I doubt they'd bloom much without protection even if they survived, since teas want to build up structure over the years from existing old wood. So I agree with what has been suggested - feel free to try it but plan to winter protect them and don't expect the results you get in warmer climates. Cynthia...See MoreMad Diary of Zone Busting in Zone 3 ...The End is a Long Way Away
Comments (7)Oh my. What is a passionate rose lover like you doing in that glacial hell hole? Reading about your endeavors has exhausted me and I haven't even lifted a shovel. I admire your grit and determination, but would love to see you rewarded with thousands of blooms on your rose bushes for all your hard work. I bet they could use engineers in zones 7 to 10!...See MoreLook at all that surviving cane (oh yeah, and spring bulbs too)
Comments (22)Thanks Martinca & Irisgal. Sharing the garden is half the fun of having it. I'm just about to run home from work and cut bouquets from some folks that are helping me out at work, as well as of course for a thank you for administrative professionals day. Sharon you also ask a good question about the bulbs (lots of excellent questions on this thread). Being a "rose chaos" gardener, I don't worry overly much about a week or two of looking scruffy while the foliage dies down. I find that the tulips go from green to yellow in about 2 weeks once they whole expanse dies off, and in fact some of the foliage in the first picture above is starting to die while other tulips are still blooming. So part of the answer is to have a lot of bulbs that bloom at different times so that they disguise the earlier foliage that's starting to die down. Once the tulip foliage turns yellow and flops over it's OK to clip it off. The bigger challenge as far as foliage goes is the daffodils, since that foliage doesn't fully fade till June in my area, and you need to leave it up and green or you'll start to sacrifice repeat bloom. I've read research that you can trim 1/3 of the foliage off the end and have the rest be just as productive, so I do that and it tidies up the rough ends a lot. Since I have bulbs planted every square inch (ideally) around other perennials and roses, the other plants are eager to shove the bulb foliage aside to get blooming on their own. One thing I don't have to worry about is a garden bed that's not thickly planted enough (smile). I find that I trim off the tulip foliage in the first bed you see listed because it's the earliest to bloom and fade, but by the time I get to mid-May there are so many other plants growing in the other beds that I don't notice the dying foliage at all after that point. I'll clip it off if I see it dead around roses when I'm working with them, but frankly I often just let the bulbs die down and join the leaf mulch as they quickly turn about the same color. As noted earlier though, planting this thickly with water-hungry plants like roses does cut back on the bulb rebloom, but it sure supports my lazy gardener habit. If you want to maximize your blooming from various plants for a minimum of effort, I'd probably interplant the daffodils and tulips among drought-hardy perennials like agastache or lavender or russian sage or salvia or all those types of plants. They're tall enough to hide the dying foliage but dry enough to co-exist happily with bulbs. However, I like roses too much not to put them in every bed, so even though I have all the above perennials I can't resist mixing in roses as well. They duke it out and seem to manage Ok. Hope that helps! Cynthia...See Morebananastand
3 years agoseil zone 6b MI
3 years agobananastand
3 years agobananastand
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoHenry Kuska
3 years ago
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