Thanks guys, The owner really doesn't want the floor broken, so we're exploring options at this point. This 1"=4' drawing has wall thicknesses (to scale), and some, but not all, of the finished interior wall-to-wall dimensions. I was able to work off one finished wall (stairs) over a hallway to get to the first bathroom wall, and also the toilet drain stub in that room. But I do take your point, Hendricus, that there may be some error in transferring the plan to the floor. Meanwhile, the tub drain stub location has me wondering even more. I just realized that it's location should be centered in a wall (correct?), not over the tub drain. If so, it's current location is as least 2' under the tub. Bottom line is I'll have to take a much closer look. Any easy way to enlarge the plan? Maybe I'll blow it up 300% on a copier at fedex/kinko's. Regardless, I need to take another look at it all. Thanks again.

"Old work" or "remodel boxes" come in different flavors from various vendors. Some are a pretty much full size devcie box with exanding screw 'wings' to anchor them (together with the top and bottom plaster wings). Other old work boxes have a clipped upper and lower rear corners and internal box clamps. The clipped corners allow clearance for the cables when the box is pushed back into the wall. There are probably some other hanging around, but those are the two I see most commonly. Using "Madison", "Hold-It Box Supports", etc with a regular device box works well also if you know how to get the cables into the box after pushing it in the wall (see the post above). The problem with simply replacing the loose boxes is getting the old one out. You need to cut the fasteners holding it to the stud. A sawzall with a longer blade can usually be worked in beside the box to either cut it free of a stud strap, or cut the fasteners holding it to the stud. It does run the risk of damaging the drywall, and even nicking cables that may be tight to the stud with staples near the box. It is often worth the effort in plaster walls since repairs are more difficult then drywall (AC cable is also more resistant to minor knocks than NM if the blade touches the cable). To simply tighten up a box that is pulling out of the wall the 'Madison' type clamps work very well. You need to be sure to bend them so they are snug against the inside wall of the box to prevent contact with the receptacle screws, but you can get rear wire receptacles (Cooper) that have covers over the screws.

oldsparky508 - Thank you for your comments. However, I think you may have missed some of my comments because I know I've written a lot. I cannot work in the ceiling because I have no access to the ceiling. We have a flat roof (no attic) on our house with tong and groove wood planks which are 4" thick (1960 wood ceiling) suspended by 4x10" beams. The external wall of the house is concrete block and one of these beams rest on top of the block giving no access to the wiring. Also, I live in Phoenix, AZ and we do not have a basement. I have a 20 AMP breaker with 12 AWG wiring with only 6 outlets on the circuit right now. So I have no concerns about overloading the circuit. The lighting that I purchased is Tech Lighting-Accent Cable Kit 5 Head-800CBL5PN . This lighting matches what we installed on the other side of the room already where there was an internal wall from which power was available. However, it is not possible to pull wire from that area over to the other side of the house without a major deconstruction effort. Therefore, the only option is on the concrete block wall of the house to pull the power. where I want to put up the lighting The halogen bulbs have a max rating of 20W and there are 5 bulbs for a total of 100W. So this will not add much of a draw on the circuit and I don't have to worry about trying to drill into the 1960 tongue and groove ceiling which has very minimal space between it and the trusses for the flat roof. I've attached a picture below. The right hand side is where I want to install the cable lighting, so that it lights up the artwork on the wall above the buffet hutch. Also, I want to install an outlet along the top of the buffet hutch on the right hand side, so that I don't have to run an extension cord to get power on the counter top. The outlet I want to use is on the left hand side of the door where the stand alone lamp (which is no longer there), is plugged into. My plan is to put the switch on the wall next to the entry way because it has more space between the concrete and drywall. I hope this makes it clearer.

1. Do not put a switch outlet on the end of a 4 1/2" thick wingwall with full studs. Whether someone says it can be done or they have, just don't do it. The notch will make the stud width unstable. You have cornerbead etc going there. It's just an ODD place for a switch to begin with. 2. "BX" (an old brand name) and "Greenfield" (the first named flexible metallic conduit early last century): both are armored cable, but incorrectly still referred to when describing any flexible metallic conduit (kind of like how people say "cinder block"). Older versions may not have an internal bonding strip required for grounding, whereas moden AC (armored cable) does. 3. AC (armored cable): the cable has a bonding strip to allow the cable sheathing to be used as a ground per NEC. 4. MC (metal clad cable): has a separate green sheathed THHN wire for ground per NEC. 5. Metal EMT (and AC/MC) conduit can be used as ground, so no separate THHN green (only color used for ground if sheathed) wire is needed. Your individual fixture grounds will be wired to the metal box. 6. All wiring in EMT will be THHN. Romex can be run in EMT per NEC, however, Romex is not used in Chicago and most of the cities in the metro-6 counties. 7. AC/MC will have limits on length of whips. 8. Different colors for the 'hot' are commonly used for travelers and sometimes if a junction box is used to pull different circuits. _________________ - electrical amateur