We are doing a bath with a tub/shower combo. Hopefully it will be mostly done by mid Feb. I'll try to post pics of it then. We are using: Tile: Octogon and dot (blue dot) tile on the floor. We'll use a checkerboard pattern of cobalt blue and white half-way up the walls of the entire bath, and solid white on the upper walls of the tub. Vanity: I think I will be using a white vanity for the bathroom. I needed something very sturdy, as this is the bathroom for my 3 sons who can be a bit rough with things.. Of all places, I got some ideas on the Daltile web-site. they don't have so many bath-shower combos, but (because they want you to buy as much tile as humanly possible) they use more tile, which translates well to a combo- style bath.

"I could also just get a pull-down faucet for the sink and aim it at the tub to fill it." You could - but you won't like it. The most one of those will fill is 2.2 gallons a minute - some less that that. Divide your tub's capacity by that and you're looking at 20 minutes to fill +/- Not good. beekeeper - I have one of these and have placed more than half a dozen in projects over the past few years. What you get for your money is a machined brass body that mounts in the ceiling or wall and a plated trim piece. The body is a substantial piece of hardware and chrome,brass, nickel plating costs $$$ too. Whether that's all worth 500 + bucks, is up to you. Like davidro says, it doesn't matter what the delivery system is, this is just an opening for hot water to come out of, albeit one with a bit of engineering. GD & Spanish - the splashing is very much dependent on the mounting height of the unit AND the tub selected AND the location of the water column inside the tub. Mine hardly splashes at all. The ones I have seen that splash only do so for a minute or so until their is enough of a pool in the tub to counteract it. Flat bottom tubs with tall ceilings are going to splash more than one from 7' into a sloped contact point in the tub. Besides , we're talking water in a bathroom, generally tiled so what's the big deal ??? It's not like the amount of splash is the same as taking a shower and leaving the door open. 2. While you are correct in that "the water cools off much more than it would from just a regular tub filler", it's not as if it cools off enough for anyone without a thermometer to tell a difference, and a very sensitive one at that! Sure the air cools the water more from a stream falling from 8 feet than one falling from two feet. But bath water that is 100 + degrees is not going to cool down to 90 deg. in the xtra 1-2 seconds it takes it to fall from the ceiling- get real. Additionally , that filler produces a very dense column of water (laminar) that has little to no air in it, so one might argue it will be hotter and less prone to heat loss than a "regular" filler that introduces room temp air into it's stream - thus cooling it off on it's way to the tub. So don't worry Spanish -your tub will still be plenty hot with that filler if you choose it. IT'S A NON -ISSUE people. I've already alluded to the real issue for lower tub temps - FILL TIME. That's directly related to the delivery system ( valve). If your valve and accompanying filler will only deliver 5 gallons a minute it's going to take a while to fill an 80 gallon tub, and there will be some heat loss. Select a valve that delivers 20 gallons a minute and you can be soaking quicker that most people can undress. Here is a link that might be useful: laminar valve body - see page 2

I used the same tile as the bath surrounds for countertops in my rent houses because it is very economical. Can't undermount sinks though, but so many nice sinks available. At 2.89 a foot cannot be beat--I used bullnose edge on one vanity so the edges were 4$ per foot or so. I use large porcelain with very thin grout lines and epoxy or fusion grout so the grout lines are no problem. Tile edges must be same color as top for it to look good if not using bullnose....although you can spray paint edges but I never have. In one house I used glass accents on the countertop and it turned out quite pretty. So....plywood, thinset and screw down denshield resin impregnated gypsum from Lowes made by USG (lightweight and sooooo easy to use, love it) and tile. the tile on top overlaps the tiled edges. So more than 2.89 ft. but not much for me as I usually have leftovers. Sorry about sideways photos:-p If you go this route, lay the entire countertop out first and check your overhang and especially your symetry, to look pro it has to be symetrical...the cuts, layout, etc. the left side of the counter the exact mirror of the right side. Floorndecor has 10' quartz prefab slabs for $500. You can take and pick up from a granite fabricator. Or Maybe use a wet saw to cut the slab and diamond blade hole saw and garden hose to cut a vessel sink hole.

I have a V&A Shropshire slipper claw foot and my plumber ordered it with his discount from the bath supply house and it was a lot less than what I could get it for. I would have to go find my paperwork, but I want to say it was $1900-$2100. I can't recall if that included the feet and drain pipes. Ask your plumber if gets a discount at a supply house and can he order it for you.