Another issue just arose...most mornings this week I have been leaving the two containers outside next to my garage. When I came home for lunch on Tuesday it appears that a squirrel decided to hunt for a snack in one of the containers. It did manage to pull up a few bulbs but I was able to salvage about 95% of what I originally had and fix the mess that it left behind. How do I keep squirrels out of containers in an aesthetically pleasing way? For the bulbs that I planted in the ground it was simple. I just laid down chicken wire mesh (held in place with stakes) before covering with mulch. However containers I'm not so sure how to approach when it comes to squirrel prevention especially since I have some crocus that is already emerging but the rest of the tulips and daffodils in the same containers are still a couple of weeks away. By the way...of the bulbs I planted in the ground (and protected from squirrels) I did see some emerging bulbs over the weekend but now it seems like something chewed the green sprouts all the way down. Rabbits? If so, how can I keep them uninterested in my sprouting bulbs?

First bloom for newly planted bulbs takes longer than established bulbs. They'll be a week or 2 longer. The cold slows the growth as well. Deeper planted bulbs will take longer as well. These are all tough bulbs, they'll be fine. Don't pull up anything. Where bulbs are blooming now is because their exposure to the sun is most direct right now. All bulbs will bloom eventually, unless they're in a waterlogged poorly drained site. Deciduous shade is fine for bulbs, except the alliums, which need full sun.

Is your planter on bare ground or directly on a hard surface (eg concrete or a rocky patch)? What's the drainage like? For example - I made a 'tabletop' planter which has a slatted bottom. I lined it with overlapping plastic bags then put in a mix of composts - one of which is very rich. Despite being three feet off the ground, with seeping drainage, and being only 8" deep - the bottom layer of the mix is very 'cluggy'. Further - despite being very well-rotted compost, the growth from the first year was disappointing. Using the same mix for a second year, after weathering, the results have been much better. The leaves. I may have misread. I gained the impression that you had used them as a further 'water-holder' layer. Sometimes buried material can be a bit toxic while it rots. I'd use leaves on the top, as a protective mulch over a serving of, say, blood and bone (but I don't have critters, as such :-)) ) Not buried. (That's not a lot of depth for bigger bulbs to get their roots down. At least four inches above and below the actual bulb, if they have to dodge the frost.) The sand. Nononono. Grit, yes. Sand and compost is for serious water-lovers. Gunnera and pondside plants. 3-5mm sharp grit well stirred through. A good gritty mix encourages root development. If you have mountain streams in your area with shingle beaches - look at the root development of plants growing in that medium. The tops might be stunted but the roots spread far and wide as they forage. If your planter has settled over winter - I'd add some genuine soil. Dirt out the garden. Not subsoil clay. Reasonable topsoil, if you have it. In an outdoor planter of the size you have the soil seems to add 'sturdiness' to the mix and the plants. One bucket of dirt, one of compost, half of grit. Later on, I'd add the ancient cowpats and good garden compost to suit the taste of whatever I was planting. And add an organic mulch if water-loss, or wind is an issue in the garden, once the soil has warmed up and growth is well under way. For now - I'd rescue the perennials and pot them up fairly tightly until they've developed a vigorous root system again. A gritty mix will help for most of them, so long as you water with care. You didn't list what you were growing. For a mix as juicy as you've offered, I'd be growing things such as polyanthus, or Dahlias, maybe Hostas and Dicentra. For something like tuberous Begonia - I'd wait for the second year. If you bought pot-grown perennials and they were slightly root-bound - remember to open the base of the rootball a little so they can start spreading. If they were slips and bare-rooted - don't expect wonders this year. Some can take up to two years to settle in and then shock you by becoming garden thugs :-(. Meantime, you could sneak in a few coloured lettuces and use the benefits tastily! Or try some bedding Impatiens and Lobelia while the soil ingredients settle down.

Crocus sativus will produce more flowers next fall, if the foliage is exposed to maximum sunlight and remains green as long as possible. You didn't indicate when they bloomed, but the foliage will usually last for 4-5 months afterward(about mid-winter here). I don't think you need to be concerned about temperature, as long as it is above zero degrees, they should be fine. Some references list their hardiness as -30°F, others at -20°F., with a thick layer of mulch(4+"). You might consider using some heating tape (the type used for wrapping pipes to prevent freezing) and burying it a couple of inches deep in the planter's soil, for use on extremely cold nights. It is fairly inexpensive, available at most HD, Lowes & Hardware stores and operates for pennies a day. I grow a number of fall blooming bulbs, including several species of Crocus and enjoy them immensely! Good luck! :Rb