Yes (if you could push it) it would move independent of the tiled parts. The old wall (tiled shower surround only) was cut out and replaced with new. I've been asking around and someone suggested I get a drywall person to 'smooth out' the wall above the tile to the ceiling and that person should be able to fill and smooth out the vertical side wall. At least the wall could then be repainted and appear smooth again. However, I now have another problem. The new plumbing pipe that was installed inside the wall for the hot cold handles...doesn't stick out far enough to actually put the new handles on. I can't believe it! I am meeting a plumber there tomorrow to find out if he can make some type of ajustments to what is already there so I can use the handles that I bought. I wonder how much this will cost. I already fired the first guy I had who made all these problems. and Paid a second guy to do the tile job. He wanted $450. I hope that wasn't too much, I just don't know and HAVE to get this thing done. It's the only bath.

" linseed oil" Boiled linseed oil (AKA 'BLO') hopefully. Linseed oil takes years to dry, the boiled stuff is faster, but takes many thin layers. 'Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year forever.' Either tends to create a very dark surface (nearly black in some cases) as they cure by oxidation and polymerization.

Maifleur, I also live in an older area and our storm sewers can't keep up with heavy rainfall. Most homes have had their eavestroughs disconnected from the sanitary sewers. Or flood was August 31st I believe. Streets were flooded. I had 10 inches of water in my basement. Same time the previous year we had the same type of flooding from a bad storm. I guess I am fortunate because my basement is cement and unfinished. No drywall. My washing machine floated in the water. The only reason I had flood and sewer backup is because I had it for a long time and it was grandfather in my new policy because the insurace company was no longer offering it. Originally it was for $20,000 but I had it reduced to $10,000 because I had nothing down the basement but my furnace, washer and dryer and a rental hot water tank. Twice now the charitable group The Good Samaritans came in and sanitized my basement for the price of a prayer. I was so thankful for their help. To help prevent basement flood the Municipality is offering a basement flooding protection subsity and after an inspection I qualified 100 percent for it. I have until the end of January to get the work done. I don't have a sump pump and my back up valve is an older version that does not work so well. Our city also just announced major infrastructure work for the local pumping station and larger storm sewers for the area where I live. Riverside seems to flood more than anywhere else in the city. Every time there is a storm warning I freak out a bit and am always on flood watch even though there is nothing I can do about it at the time. We need rain badly around here, we keep missing the storms but I really want a nice steady rainfall just not a deluge. Basement flooding subsidy

Looking for suggestions on how to fix this water damage that's several years old. A previous homeowner 'fixed' it by cutting out the bad subfloor and putting in unsecured plywood from below. I had a licensed contractor out who wasn't terribly worried about extensive bracing since it's a small area. He ultimately decided it was too small of a project / he was too busy. I've had a hard time getting other contractors out to quote the work and he recommended I just do the work myself. He recommended replacing the bottom 6" or so of left 3 studs with a 6x6" (essentially a header but installed at the bottom) and then sistering an 18" tall 2x4 to the left 2x4/left side of header. Water damage from a previous Here's my general plan: 1.) Cut away subflooring other than what's under stud plate 2.) Run braces from upper top plate to floor and then angled to floor joists 3.) Sawzall nails connecting subfloor to bottom where subfloor is rotted 4.) Install new 12" x12" subfloor under bottom plate and sticking out 6" with appropriate blocking for floor nailing at edges (can't slide a larger continuous section to replace all damages subfloor .. about 3'x4' .. due to toilet drain 5.) Sawzall nails connecting 1' of damaged stud plate to studs 6.) Cut out left 6" of left most 3 studs, being mindful of the blade binding, showing too much force on studs. 7.) Build stack of 3x on top of each other to fill the cut out from 3 left studs. Toe nail stack to bottom plate 8.) Install 2x4 to left of stack to sister the stack to the left most 2x4 Blue are sections of 2x6 studs to replace with 3 2x6s stacked horizontally. Green are sections of 2x6 stud plate to replace with new subfloor underneath