Hey Kirkhall, glad to see you're still moving forward! But, I thought there was a vent stack just about exactly where the hinges on the door into the NW bedroom are shown. Have you decided to go ahead and move that vent stack or am I just misremembering exactly where it was? Could you show exactly where the vent stack will be on the drawing above? I don't want to spend too much time playing with your sketch only to find out that that danged vent stack is in the way of every idea. But, I do agree that the sketch your GC's designer provided looks awkward. I'm comfortable with angled walls but they do need to look PLANNED! Where two walls meet at 135 degrees (90 + 45) they usually look planned. And, if you have two matching sets of angled walls that meet at 120 degrees (90 + 30) or at 150 degrees (90 + 60) they also usually look planned. But,where (as here) walls meet at some other odd angle, they often look like a mistake was made in the building process and the angled wall was just stuck in willy-nilly to make all the walls connect up. I'm wondering if something like this would work. (Probably depends on where that danged vent stack is!) The hallway to your bedroom would be made about a bit wider and the laundry closet a bit shallower than on your GC's design...but the laundry closet still should be plenty wide for the washer and dryer to sit at the ends as shown on the GC's design. The dotted red line is just to show how I envision the wall beside the NW bedroom would line up with the outer wall of the laundry closet. The only angled walls would be one at the top of the stairs and one in your bedroom and both would meet other walls at 135 degrees instead of some odd angle. If you put a small triangular table or some nick-knack shelves in the corner across from the hallway angled wall, you would create an angled hallway effect that would look planned rather than haphazard. I know one issue you're dealing with with the girls bedroom closets is that you have a kneewall at one side which is making it hard to figure out how to fit in a full sized door. But I think you could do their closets like this using 24" wide regular doors set where you have a full height ceilings. (Yes, I know 24" wide doors aren't exactly "optimal" but where space is tight, they will work FINE as closet doors, particularly for a child's closet!) Both closets would then be shallow walk-in closets (3.5 ft deep x about 6.5 ft wide) with hanging rods to the left and right of the door and a narrow aisle down the middle. Since you wouldn't have to walk very far into the closet, it wouldn't matter that the aisleway was narrow. Obviously, on the side with the low ceiling, you would not have any storage above the hanging rod but I had a similar closet in one of the secondary bedrooms of our old house that was built under a stairway and it was actually pretty functional. With kid's closets, you often want to put set the hanging rod pretty low anyway.

To me this sort of decision has to be partly informed by how much of the tile will have to be cut and how good your tile setter is at cutting tile. For me, if doing all these accents means a lot of tile with cut edges I would be hesitant. I don't like the way cut edges of tile look out in the middle of the field, and the use of accents and of standard niches for that matter usually mean there is a lot of cutting of tiles to fit in the accent tiles. Does this make sense? But I won't (voluntarily) use standard niches that require tiles to be cut around the niche, either. I will figure out what size the niche has to be to be surrounded by all full tile with bullnose. It's a pain. And it can't be done with a typical subway layout because brick patterns always require a cut tile for every full tile at the end of a run anyway. (I am on the lookout for the company that offers 3x3 standard to make the half-tile for their standard 6x3 layout. I just finished a bathroom that has about 12 fully "cut" tiles, and one row of slightly shaved tiles in the whole bathroom--and it's 2x2 tile. The plan was to have the entire bathroom be 100% full tiles, and we didn't quite make it. And I stare at the row of shaved tiles when I am taking a shower. But this isn't really answering your question. I personally don't think a bathroom with that many sizes of tile even if they were all the same color would look bland or sterile. I think if you start to "accent" too many things, it's no longer an accent. I would be against too many accent areas if it wreaked havoc with the overall tile layout. Nothing personal against decorative painters, I nearly got an MFA in painting as my alternate degree instead of interior design as my alternate degree, but having known some and having been in the houses of some (and having unearthed some of the paint combinations covered up by staging-khaki paint in a house Owned by one: My impression is that a lot of decorative painters don't know when to stop and someone has to tell them when to stop--and this isn't always easy when they are on a design job. But really, if I had a decorative painter in my house, I would want the bathroom tile to be all white and I would want the decorative painter to Paint the walls in a mural or something decorative.

i truly dont get the dual shower heads, someone explain advantages please. In our 28 years of marriage, only time we were in shower together is when we got frisky ;-)) If we both needed to take a shower, i being the man would just go to our other bath, take my shower and go....

Thanks everyone for the suggestions! There are good points in all the options. I think it over and over, even though I like the previous option #1 a lot, I realized the TV wall is a concrete wall, so cannot move the door open that way. I try to be more realist, like you said budget-wise and if I sell this unit in the future, they are likely don't need a hug amount of closet space. So I think I will make the shower room bigger and make lots of movable wardrobe units. I'm not sure what would be the best way to fit the pink wardrobe unit in the image below, I don't want the room to feel smell or separated: Option A - I feel the bed is close to the pink wardrobe might make it feel close to the wall, but the good thing is the room doesn't feel separated. Option B - The bed doesn't feel very close to the wall but the room feels separated with the pink wardrobe and created hallway which I feel it waste the space. Any other potential options? I like @damiarain 's idea of making it a big single sink and some draws on the side - I want to have a one piece vanity top with sink (not undercount), seems hard to find people to make it. @Flo Mangan I was looking for those closet lift, they all seem to be manual (could be quite heavy) on the market, do you know if there is an automate one?