Just an FYI...if you keep the island dimensions as-is and add legs, you'll be very tight on space for the 3 seats on the long side. You need 24" per seat - possibly a bit more to be able to maneuver in/out of the seats around the legs (you can't use the end "space" to slip into the two end seats b/c the legs will be in the way). With a 72" long island, you have just enough room for 3 seats. With legs, you need to either add length to the island equal to the widths of the legs (3" wide?), or reduce seating to 2. For the seat on the short end, you should have enough room but be aware that, as someone else mentioned, that seat will be off-center b/c of the overhang - at least when someone is sitting there. If no one is sitting at that seat and the one around the corner, then you can center that end stool (to help with your form over function sensibilities in this case). Island depth of 41.5": 1.5" overhang + 24" deep cabs + 1" decorative panel + 15" overhang For cabinets, if the 57" width of cabinets are already ordered and cannot be changed, then you'll have an 18.9" overhang for that seat on the short end - very comfortable for an adult or teenager! The 15" overhang on the long side will be fine for children and anyone under 6'2" or so (speaking from experience!) This will reduce your aisle to 51.5" behind the island - which will probably be OK most of the time. The only time it would an issue is if someone is trying to work at the counter behind the island while others are seated along the long end of the aisle. If you can do it, I'd move the island closer to the sink wall be 6" (for a 48" aisle) and add those 6" to the back aisle (51.5" + 6" = 57.5"). One question - are your aisle measurements cabinet-to-cabinet or counter edge-to-counter edge? If the aisles are measured cabinet-to-cabinet, then your aisles are actually not as wide as stated. Assuming the standard 1.5" counter overhang in front of the cabinets (protects the drawer fronts & doors as well as the drawer pulls/knobs from spills and bumping), then you need to account for the extra 1.5": Sink aisle: 1.5" overhang in front of sink run + 51" aisle + 1.5" overhang in front of island (aisle width: 54" - 1.5" - 1.5" = 51") You then have 3" instead of 6" to add to the back aisle if you can move your island and reduce the sink/island aisle to 48". Aisle behind island (MW aisle): 52.5" aisle + 1.5" overhang in front of counter run with MW. (aisle width: 54" - 1.5" = 52.5)" If you add the 3" from the sink aisle, then the aisle b/w the island and the MW run will be 52.5" + 3" = 55.5" [Edited for for those annoying typos!] This post was edited by buehl on Sat, Oct 4, 14 at 5:36

Thank you again Lori! I actually answered this last comment of yours with a longer reply but then edited it to correct a hanging parenthesis. Poof! I did everything all right, but the whole thing disappeared anyway. My laptop is in need of a tune up and it's getting a bit glitchy! I wanted you to know I deeply appreciate your thoughtful replies though, so I'm re-writing it (and the boiled down version, here, is more brief--so that's better). Replying to you helped me to ferret out my own thinking process and formulate a plan. I learned something by asking you about the gloss (that it tends to dissipate over time) but I agree...I don't really like "glossy" on the exterior. (And even if it dissipates, there would be areas which could be seen but would be a little more protected from weather and those would stay glossy.) I've realized, without rationalization nor denial, that the difference is only slight in color. I know myself very well: My brain is wired to first and foremost see discrepancies. It sees discrepancies as severely different at first. Yes, it tends to make me a discriminating (okay, "very picky") person (LOL) but over time my brain adjusts and I see more factually how much of a differential really exists. (Being able to see discrepancies so clearly makes me good at analyzing things, so it has its helpful uses!) Knowing this about myself, I placed the samples at a spot in my home which I walk past multiple times per hour so I'd see the samples suddenly and without thinking about them first. Thinking about other things as I went about my day, my eyes landed on the samples without anticipation of seeing them, and my brain told me they are the same color. This happened 3 times. Only upon closer, conscious glances did my brain say, "Oh, those are slightly different." So, perhaps I could live with the color and, as you say, move on! :) I appreciate the comments and, folks, please keep 'em coming if you have something helpful to add. There may be a new idea out there that can re-shape my thinking and help me to distill my best solution. On Monday, I'm going to call and ask some questions: 1. Can the gutter company provide the COLOR of the High Gloss White in a low gloss finish? 2. If not, can the gutter company factory-paint with my paint selections from Benjamin Moore's Aura line, perhaps with an additive to harden the paint? ...and also... 3. Can we identify places on my home where downspouts cross over the body of the house, if any, and have the gutter company paint those pieces of the gutter system a second color, to match the body of the house? Thank you Lori and everybody. I really appreciate your time!

Hi @3onthetree - would love to get your help on a couple of follow up questions. I called the roofing manufacturer rep but he never called me back so I am hoping you can help me. We had the old gutters removed, now it's easier to see what my set up is. Drip edge Small fascia board (behind drip edge, not visible unless you look from underneath) Large fascia board (visible) And here's my assumption of what the ideal/proper gutter install would be to avoid water getting onto the fascia board/s (the hanger / screw part I still have a question about - ideal more meaning between the small fascia board and the drip edge.) None of the installers on their own suggested installing the gutter "behind" the drip edge. When we inquired, they said they could do that if we give them permission to manipulate the drip edge. One installer said that if we wanted that they would have to screw onto the drip edge, and they would seal the screw holes. But said that it would be just fine to install the gutter below the small fascia board - avoiding having to screw into the drip edge - and that there would be no issues with water getting into the fascia boards. I am now thinking that perhaps all the installers were planning on screwing into the drip edge, they just didn't mention it and I didn't realize/think to ask how it would be attached. What are your thoughts on screwing into the drip edge - is it necessary? and if so, is it still preferable to installing below the small fascia board? Or is installing below the small fascia board OK? Thank you so much for any guidance you might be able to give me!

Thank you! I have most of the tools (not the cat’s claw or cleat - will have to google those). I do a lot of finish work. The foundation is piers. Under the house in the crawl space are several concrete cinderblock stacks that support the first floor. That is all inside the brick skirt, which I believe is about 3” thick (clay bricks with holes). The floor of the crawl space is dirt, but it has been covered with a thick ”plastic-ish” vapor barrier and the crawl space sealed/encapsulated with dehumidifier. In other words, the crawl space is now clean and climate controlled, but the base is soft (dirt). The 2x10s appear to sit on top of the brick skirt. So I assume the brick skirt provides support for the frame. When I take pics of the crawl space, that may become more clear. I probably have to remove more subfloor to see everything that’s going on. The roof shingles were recently replaced (full roof replacement) and they did not charge me extra for decking, so I assume the roof structure underneath was in good shape. It is a steep roof (guessing 57 degrees) so it was not subjected to a lot of wear. With regard to the subfloor, I think the crawl space installer was mistaken about what was damaged. I have to spend some time in the crawl space to test all the subfloor. I think most of the damage is along the back edge of the house behind the deck. If there is other damage, it would probably be related to plumbing leaks. I do know that the bathtub drain leaked and that probably damaged the subfloor underneath. The good news about the subfloor is that it is 2 layers: 5/8” plywood over 1/2” plywood, with a black vapor barrier in between. I plan to patch it with 3/4” advantix and 3/8” plywood underlayment inside the house, with any necessary blocking between joists to stabilize. At most, the damaged subfloor to be removed is within 20” of the exterior wall. I’ll be adding a 1/4” hardiebacker layer and porcelain tile planks. With the piers cinderblocks supporting the double subfloor, I feel pretty good about the stiffness of the floor. It feels solid. (I removed the carpet months ago and covered it with plastic sheeting until I can get it tiled, so I have been walking on it.) The upper window is an issue, but again, I think that was flashing-related - there is a flashed metal platform under that window and the backsplash from that probably eroded the siding and trim around the window. I plan to replace that damaged wood with water-resistant trim. The window is directly above the middle of the kitchen ceiling, and that ceiling appears to be fine. I’ll go over these suggestions and do more research this week. Thank you so much for the leads!