On your plant, you should expect new leaves to form only at new nodes, which are the point where the leaf is attached to the stem. If a leaf dies or is mechanically removed, a branch will normally appear from just above the leaf bundle scar (where the leaf was attached to the stem). This new branch will continue to grow new leaves until it is terminated (growing tip removed), or until the plant receives a chemical message that growing leaves in a particular special position is no longer in the best interest of the plant. One example of 'no longer in the best interest' would be if the branch has become shaded by growth originating higher on the plant. In short: leaves will grow off the stem. If you remove a leaf, it sets the stage for a branch to grow just above (distal to) where the leaf occurred. If you terminate the branch by removing the growing tip (apical meristem), a change in hormonal balance occurs and branching will be stimulated behind the pruning cut. How far back along the stem the influence takes effect depends on a number of factors - where the plant is in its growth cycle, light conditions, how much reserve energy the plant has, how robustly it is/isn't growing at the time of pruning, others .... So, as long as your plant remains viable, it can be rescued from its plight & made into something appealing to the eye. Al

Thanks for the responses everyone! Toni, up until late Fall I was feeding it every other week with Miracle Grow with a shot of Super Thrive once a month. Since it's gotten colder I've slacked off on the fertilizer. I've also switched to Eleanor's VF-11, which I feed in a diluted dose once every month or two until Spring. I keep trying to treat my plants like they're dormant but most of them don't really seem to want to go to sleep! It's easy for plants to get confused around here where we have some 7 seasons a year as opposed to the usual 4! But no, no pets or kids. What I mean by sever is that a particular spot on the stem will just sort of break down and rot, I guess? It is usually a clean cut. It's like the tissue just seperates. The huge flower on my Cattleya did the same thing after it was finished blooming. It was like someone just came by with a really sharp knife and lopped it off. The leaves are fairly healthy looking though when they drop. I will say that it hasn't happened for awhile either. Mr Subjunctive, I'll try to get a picture next time it happens. I wish I'd taken a picture of the one that seperated in a bunch of places, that was weird.

Jay, You have the right concern. The worst thing you can do to indoor plants is to cook (stir fry with heated vegi oil), smoke and run a gas engine in front of them. Many plants are more sensitive to air pollutants than us, they can't walk away from it. Some plants are tough to this, but many sub tropical plants reacts badly to this, leaves turning yellow, curl and dropping. Osmanthus will just knee down and drop all its leaves if exposed to air polluted with vegi oil gas. Camellia will drop its bugs like crazy. I have to be careful with my unheated garage, each time, I truned off my car, I will leave the garage door open for a minute or two to release the air pollution. The only recommendation I can give you is give them lots of air circulation, humidity and ease off on fert. Here is what I read: Air pollutants mainly penetrate a plant through skin pores. These are in connection with the intercellular spaces in the leaves of a plant. Through the skin pores gasses can penetrate cell walls, to be absorbed by the cell fluids. Some of the gaseous air pollutants directly damage plant leaves when they penetrate plant cells. This can cause the leaves of plants and trees to lose their colour, or even die off. It can also cause plant growth to stagnate. The leaves and stems may slacken and curl up.

Your plant is set too low in the soil. However, I have that brown spot/leaf/plant wilt occasionally also. Don't know if it is the same condition but I have leaves that seem to get brown cut-in spots. The leaf stem will be watery back to the plant stem while the rest of the leaf stem will be firm. I have taken leaves and cut up past the mushy/brown hole part. I have tried to root them. Some seem to do all right if the leaf hasn't already wilted. If you check the plant stem at the base where it comes out of the soil, is there a brown/black covering? It may look like soil crust or buildup but it is more of the rot, I think. If there are any firm leaves left, set them for mouse ears. If you repot the plant, scrape around the thick ball of root where the main stem goes into the soil to remove any brown or black rot. Scrape gently to the fresh green part. All you want to remove is that brown/black crust. I treat the scraped area with a light dusting of cinnamon and rooting compound. Repot in very loose soil, Be Very Careful Not To Bury The Crown Too Deeply. Dome the plant. It might survive but as wilted as yours is, it will be iffy. I usually treat my plants immediately when I see those brown holes in the stems. I save most of the plants that haven't gone into full wilt. I don't know what causes that. I do notice it happens with plants set low in the soil and top watered. I have stopped top watering except as an occasional flush or bath. Good Luck. I hope someone can identify that. I have only had it on a few, very few plants and I have saved almost all of them at least as leafs with mouse ears. I hope someone has more information about those holes. I haven't been able to find any information. It is not age because it happens on good, inside leaves that have never touched a pot edge.