How to take care of Moro Blood Oranges?
Mars SC Zone 8b Mars
3 years ago
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Comments (16)
poncirusguy6b452xx
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoMars SC Zone 8b Mars thanked poncirusguy6b452xxMars SC Zone 8b Mars
3 years agoRelated Discussions
moro blood orange in michigan?
Comments (3)blood oranges do poorly in low light levels. They will need added light in the fall winter and spring to keep there leaves. If you live in arizona or other place where it is only cloudy at night and you have a large south facing window you should do ok. Better yet a lean-to greenhouse with a built in 55 F triggered root heater you'll do fine. Choose you rootstock very carefully. Some one else will have to advise you on that. Have you thought about or already have a meiwa kumquat. You eat the whole thing. No pealling. No mess. Blood orange, know pealling, know mess. lotsa mess. Click on image bellow to open my photobucket display. use arrow keys to navigate. click on magnifying glass in lower right hand corner for a zoom-able drop down picture to see 8 megpixel image Potted seed grown meiwa kumquat tree grow light heat box will triple your blood oranges growth over whole year Here is a link that might be useful: https://plus.google.com/photos/111099372377958308731/albums/profile?banner=pwa...See Moremoro blood orange - all leaves are yellow
Comments (31)Patty, the nitrogen in fertilizers can make the growing medium become either more acidic (lower the pH) or less acidic/more basic (raise the pH). There are three types of nitrogen used in fertilizers: ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4+), nitrate nitrogen (NO3-) and urea. Fertilizing with ammoniacal nitrogen causes the medium-pH to DECREASE (become MORE acid) because H+ (acidic protons) are secreted from the tree's roots. Urea is converted into ammoniacal nitrogen in the growing medium, and therefore can be thought of as another source of ammoniacal nitrogen. In contrast, fertilizing with a nitrate nitrogen fertilizer INCREASES medium-pH (becomes LESS acid/more caustic) because the tree's roots secrete bases (OH-). Stressbaby is correct in stating that 7 is a neutral pH. Numbers lower than 7 denotes an acid solution, and numbers grater than 7 denotes a basic solution. The pH scale is also logrithmic. So a potting soil with a pH of 6 is ten times more acidic than a potting soil of pH 7. A potting soil with a pH of 5 is ten times more acid than a potting soil of pH 6, and 100 times more acidic than a potting soil of pH 7. A potting soil with a pH of 4 is ten times more acid than a potting soil with a pH of 5, and a 100 times more acid than a pH of 6 and 1000 times more acidic than a potting soil with a PH of 7. An so no and so on. Citrus will ALWAYS take up nutrients in a 5-1-3 ratio no matter what formulation you give them. Much more important than what type of fertilze to use for flower fruit set is an ample supply of water. Water is the prerequisite for ALL STAGES of fruit development. Water stress is particularly dangerous during fruit set, leading to a massive drop of fruitlets. Increase in size and juice content are also largely dependent upon the availability of water. So at bloom and fruit set, keep the moisture level of the growing medium up. This is where a well draining, lite aerable "soil" that at the same time retains a higher amount of water, such as CHC's, becomes important. Nutrition from fertilizing is important as well. Potassium plays a special role in fruit development. I would recomend a fertilization with a fertilizer formula higher in nitrogen and potassium, such as a fertilizer with a 5-1-3 ratio, or something more or less close. I also give my trees a nitrogen/potassium foliar spray, using Potassium Nitrate, a month before bloom and again a month after fruit set. Take care. - Millet...See MoreMoro Blood Orange Bark Split
Comments (11)Thanks Tom. I have too many trees to keep the grass back on all of them by hand and I don't want to use a herbicide so....I just pitch in when I can and let them duke it out until they ultimately shade out the grass. My trees grow slower but I also have more time to play with a wood lathe, remodel my house, play mandolin, keep my car running, and go fishing! I have a neighbor who had a commercial Satsuma orchard that she bulldozed several years ago after a hard freeze. My Satsuma trees survived with practically no damage....maybe it was luck, soil, or exposure differences....or maybe smaller growth rings and a more organic approach leads to a more hardy tree. It's a good point though Tom.....I just don't make the time and I find ways to rationalize it!...See MoreMoro blood orange and nules clementine came this morning!
Comments (26)Hello Kvetchlambkin and Susanne thanks guy's the greenhouse is fantastic right now with all of the blossom's opening up I wish you guy's where here you would absolutely love all the scents. Kvetchlambkin that's to bad that you can't purchase grafted citrus from in your area . It sure is nice purchasing exactly what you want on line but you just can't beat purchasing them in a store , dragging the tree's all off the skid making a huge mess checking for the best one and searching for that tree you've been searching for forever. I tell you that my heart rate elevates so high when going through a skid of citrus in a store nothing like it . Kvetchlambkin Meyers are very finicky with their environment especially if it's been outside all summer actually all citrus are but the Meyer really has a hard time adjusting I almost lost my 14 yr old Meyer last winter . Try to give it lot's of light as much as possible and watch the watering. Place a fan near it for circulation. Hello Susanne bugs Lol scale they can spread in there but it's funny they seem to hit some tree's worst then others . Last winter I had scale but they didn't do any damage to the tree's . During the summer the scales seem to just dissappear. Scale is the only pest I seem to get during the winter . Night time temperature that I would love to have all winter is 55-60 but it's not easy keeping those kind of temperature's when it's minus 30 outside. I have lights in my Greenhouse on at 6.00 am and I shut them off at 9.30 pm which coincidently is my bedtime . Susanne your setup is beautiful your doing everything right you shouldn't run into any problems. Give them lot's and lot's of light , you can drop your night time temps while the lights are off you want to mimic the outside and use lot's of fans for air circulation great for the tree's and helps with the over watering issue . Get a feel for your tree's in their pots, water them then remember how heavy they felt after watering if they still feel almost as heavy days later don't water remember the surface might dry but a couple inches down it could be very moist . The tree's will be very slow to take up water for a few weeks after bringing them in so make sure not to over water . I have faith in you Susanne you will do just fine . Brian...See MoreDave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
3 years agoMars SC Zone 8b Mars thanked Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7AMars SC Zone 8b Mars
3 years agoMars SC Zone 8b Mars
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoMars SC Zone 8b Mars
3 years agoMars SC Zone 8b Mars
3 years agoMars SC Zone 8b Mars
3 years agowindberry zone5a BCCanada
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoMars SC Zone 8b Mars thanked windberry zone5a BCCanada
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