De ja vu.

Companies named Sika and Sonneborn make products that will work well. Usually available only at commercial roofing/waterproofing wholesale suppliers. But I saw some of the Sika products at Home Depot recently. Lots of folks use silicone caulk. Polyurethane is better. The self-leveling gives best looking results for situations such as yours.

I use the Zinnser waterproofing paint. No need to prime. Just do two coats. Of course, if you tint it a sunny yellow, it will likely take three or more coats to cover completely.

That consists of vertical rebars in some of the cavities. These cavities are then filled with a flowable grout rather than concrete or mortar so that the entire core is completely filled without voids. So if I'm reading this correctly, not all the voids need to be filled, only certain ones. Right? The material used did look more like grout than a high sump concrete as I had envisioned. The reinforcing should meet the minimum requirements of the building code or what an engineer specifies. There are no building permits required in my neck of the woods; therefore no inspections by anyone other than myself, husband and GC. We (hubby and I) have no experience with CMU, so I'm trying to educate myself on the fly since I had assumed they wold be filling all voids. Whatever block they already filled they did that for tone reason or another and it's probably per plan detail, like piers, first-course block, etc The bock fill isn't specified on any of the plans. Building permits are not req'd here, so the plans don't show as much info as they would if we were in a larger metro area.