Loni, imo, rubber trees slow down growing starting in autum into winter. You mention you're keeping the plant in miracle gro..how much are you feeding? You don't want to overdo it. Sounds like it's getting medium light, since it's below a window..Can you offer more light? (which direction does window face) Since I moved both rubber trees, green and variegated, in south windows, they've really put on growth. But I also feel rubber plants are semi-slow growing..Not as slow as say a cactus, but slow nonetheless. Ironically, when I bought both rubber trees, seemed like they took forever to grow..especially the variegated. Both were bought in the 90's. It took a few yrs to actually call them medium size trees. In fact, my variegated lost leaves, but seemed to fill in the last couple yrs. Good Luck, Toni

For best results, you will want to set a plan in motion that works in harmony with the plant's natural rhythms. This will allow you to accomplish your goals much faster, and w/o much of the waiting and frustration that usually accompanies simply moving forward on hope & a prayer. ;-) It's late in the growth cycle to be doing anything significant to roots or the top of the tree, unless you live in the deep south. Even then, it would still be better to wait on the major work until next summer. Your tree will have the lowest energy reserves of the entire growth cycle in late winter and early spring, so any significant work on it should be avoided until later in the growth cycle, after the plant has had the opportunity to turn some of the lengthening photoperiod into some energy reserves it can fall back on when you start cutting on it. You'd be amazed at how much a healthy tree will tolerate if you follow a considered plan and work on it when its energy reserves are high. If it was my tree, I'd first consider how root bound it is. If it's never been repotted & roots are cramped, I might saw off the bottom few inches of the root mass, cut some vertical slits in the root ball, add some soil to the bottom of the pot to bring the existing soil line up to about 1/2" from the top of the pot and call it good until summer. If you haven't been flushing the soil when you water, I'd also thoroughly flush the soil as I do the minor root work. Ask about that if you decide to take the advice. This should allow your plant to return to growing a little closer to its potential, which you'll look at as a growth spurt. Next summer, around Father's Day, you can do a full repot into an appropriate soil. My definition of an appropriate soil is one that will allow you to flush the soil at will w/o having to worry about root function being impaired or setting the stage for fungal root infections. This is a key element in being able to consistently grow healthy plants that look good, so it would be of significant benefit to you if you don't just skip over considering the impact soil choice has on your ability to provide what your plant wants. Root health (required for a healthy plant), insects infestations, disease, and poor appearance are almost always directly related to a poor soil and inappropriate watering habits; and the worse the soil is, the more difficult a watering regimen that pleases the plant becomes. Next summer, close on the heels of the repot (2-3 weeks), you can start pruning the top in a way that will allow you to create the look you're after. It's not at all difficult, but I think you would be chasing your tail if you start trying to work toward that end w/o first making sure the tree is healthy and able to respond to your ministrations. Questions? Al

Tinan..According to that list, most house plants are toxic. lol. I have 4 birds, (free-flying when I'm home, which is most of the time,) 2 dogs, (the younger enjoys nibbling greens,) Iguana, and had a 17-yr-old cat, until he went to feline heaven..he died of old age. Birds are more sensitive to plants/chemicals than cats or dogs, which is one reason I pretty much steer clear of chemicals, including cleaning supplies. Except for a few plants, I have many from the list you posted...No problems, Thank God. Plants I won't keep are Dumbcanes, Oleander, and Poinsettas. Even though they claim Poins are non-toxic, it's a Euphorbia, and Euphorbias seep white sap when branch is snapped. Some people are allergic to the sap. On the other hand, I have almost 100 Euphorbias. Make sense? A newsman, 'think channel 5 news,' ate a Poin leaf to prove the plant harmless after a universery did a study and said the Poin wouldn't hurt a fly..I wonder how he felt 15 mins after the news ended. Was he sitting or leaning over a toilet bowel? lol. Playing devil's advocate. My friend's cat had five kittens, pure white long-hair. A woman adopted all five. 2-3 wks later, she called my friend, told her the kittens died. She claimed, she had Poins in the room they were staying, and discovered they have been nibbling on her Poins. Same friend had a Cockatiel/bird. Hedera Helix/English Ivy is supposed to be fatal, will kill a bird if ingested. Her tiel flew on her Hedera, and ate the entire plant..It was in an 8" pot. She was worried, but her tiel was fine. She had him at least 6 yrs after his fiesta. She adopted him out when she moved, and he's still around. He's around 16-yrs-old. So, if a bird can survive some plants listed as toxic, it makes one wonder if plants are as harmful as they say. If you buy a large plant, there are ways to keep your kitty away. Organic sprays and methods. One problem is cats like using plants with canes, 'like Corn Plant.' They'll kneed the heck out of the trunk/s. Good luck...Toni

Hard to say w/o more info, but the likely suspects based on the appearance of the leaves in the process of being shed are A) root congestion if you've never repotted (Repotting is more extensive than potting up - includes bare-rooting, root pruning, and a change of soil), B) over-watering, C) under-watering, D) a high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil solution if you don't regularly flush the soil when you water, and E) a reduction in photo load (duration and/or intensity of the light it's exposed to). I did some looking at your nutritional supplementation program and it looks much better than what the average hobbyist might choose, so you get applause from this quarter for your wise choices in that area. I think we can probably isolate the most probable cause if you want to spend some time in a back & forth dialog, but I have a hunch we're looking at root congestion, or over-watering unless you're a habitual under-waterer. Al