First thing I would advise is to move the palm to a window. That corner is not going to provide it enough light. I can't really tell from the picture, but it looks like it might be a majesty palm, in which case, there's little hope, because those things aren't house plants and will almost never grow for you in the house. But if it's not a majesty, try moving it so it can get more light. Now, about the soil moisture. First, if there are drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, and it's a fairly new plant, the problem isn't drainage. If there aren't drainage holes, you need to get it into a pot with drainage. Second, over watering or under watering is a problem that takes place over a period of time, not right after you water. The object of testing the soil moisture, as I show in my videos, is to figure out the moisture level all through the plant, that is, all the way to the bottom of the pot, and use that information to decide whether or not it's time to water again. Palms like their soil to be slightly damp, soft and cool feeling, before more water is added, but not so damp that the soil sticks together hard when you squeeze it. If you always let the soil (all the way through the pot, remember,) aerate to the prescribed stage, you'll never overwater. When it reaches the soft and cool stage (1/2 way between "dry" and "moist" on a moisture meter,) it's time to water. Don't let the plant sit around with dry soil, because that stresses them, so you want to water as soon as the soil aerates enough. When you water, always water so that you get a runoff from the drainage holes of 1/2 - 1", then let the plant sit in the drainage water. If you always water as soon as the soil is ready, and you always water enough for runoff, you'll never underwater. If you want to talk about this more, or it's not clear to you, please ask more questions, I'll be glad to go over it with you.

Good job posting the links as the embedded pics didn't work for me. Every other day seems a bit much to me if they're in the ground, but it doesn't sound like you're drowning them either. The leaf loss in your pics looks pretty minimal/normal for a transplanted one, especially since they mostly seem to be the older fronds, but let's see what our other members say too. I'd just just make sure they get lightly dry between watering (mine get watered twice a week at this time of year) and then not to sweat the older fronds yellowing/browning, especially after a recent transplant. I think your plants look pretty good overall. Good luck and keep us posted, Grant

Besides the hardy vines others will tell you about-you might try the new Sun Parasol Mandevilla's. In pink,red,white.Some are dwarf in leaf and flower,growing habit others-and you can tell by the more robust pot growth,will cover more area,but are never big vines. Planted all around that palm they like the part shade. Not expensive.You can find them at very low cost at the home improvement stores. I have had them bloom near all year...and if they do stop they are among the first to bloom in early spring. Buy ten and impress the neighbors. Hardy to 20f. Much better where it doesn't go below 32f but a very few nights a year.

A Sunny isles Florida beach resort has fruiting date palms right dab in front of it. I happened upon them and was shocked to see them producing in Florida. The palms are huge and the dates are all over the ground and in the fountain, bushes and lawn. They look like medjool dates too. The fruit are quite large, dark, sticky and sweet smelling. I'm sure the resort meant to plant canary island date palm and instead got fruiting dates.