Pramoxine hydrochloride 1%
Annegriet
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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Priscella's dying after nemotode treatment.
Comments (1)Update, at 10:58. I was able to observe two prior to death (one I put down, other in small hospital tank)... Fins ragged (note now one cory catfish has the same)... indicates bacteria? But extremely thin, (priscella tetra).. thought before I netted him out he had whitish stringy poo (intestines) and ballest off. Hard to stay upright. In small hospital tank, floated on side at top. Put him down, think may have been a her. Small red dot (blood) out of vent, but when I opened fish gutt, no worms but small roundish forms which at first I thought might be parasite eggs, but realized way to big. Think he was a she. Second saving for observation in hospital tank. Thin, ragged edges of fins and they die fast. I noted the same with black neon tetra (no true tetra) and the fish have never mixed. could this be the dreaded neon tetra disease? (says other tetras similar can get it as well)... Discouraged to say the least. Best Sherry Any help, thoughts much appreciated....See MoreBest 'Commercial' dry dog food
Comments (66)Thank you for so much info.....I noticed though that your high energy dogs eats alot more than two cups per day while the low energy dogs eat as much as toots. Tootsie while a bulldog which is known for their low energy is actually quite energetic.....we have to walk her everyday and play with her for several hours otherwise she goes crazy...you can actually see the pent up energy in her when she sits still too long....she is also a jumper (just not on command)and while she runs around the yard she also jumps up on the chairs and tables. (she's allowed). People at the bullympics this weekend said they had never seen a bully run like her before. I do agree with you though...there probably is not much difference between a four star and six star for most dogs....bullies are known as medical nightmares though so we are trying to do the absolute best for her and since we can afford it we do. Toots is actually quite funny to watch as she takes her toys and throw them herself sometime to go after...she is also one of the few bullies from what I've heard who will play fetch.....her breeder actually said we should train her for agility competitions....but we're not show people. I'd be curious to see how much she eats when she slows down a bit....See MoreFreshPet Select Cat Food
Comments (4)The ingredients are fine and protein (adjusted for dry matter) is 46% (30% is goal). This is much better food than what you will usually find in a supermarket....See MoreWhere to buy "Clean" compost?
Comments (16)Soil and compost are not measured and available by weight, but volume. You do not acquire 40lbs of compost or soil. You acquire 2 cubic feet, maybe 2.5 cuft if it's loamy and lighter weight. Measure your bed, width by length by depth in inches. Convert that to cubic feet (there is a quick google conversion available). That is the amount you will need to fill a raised bed. Keep in mind that once watered in, the material will settle so you may want to calculate an extra inch or two of depth to correct for that. Organic farms, especially in larger scale (>10 acres), do not rely on their own compost outputs. In my experience, well over a 1,000 pounds of raw material will provide less than 80 pounds of compost (2 cu ft) once the pile has matured and seasoned, Berkeley method included. We've attempted many different ideologies and operating procedures for producing compost small scale with leaves, grass clippings, vegetable plant remainders and livestock manure. There is no maintaining every ounce of nutrients. Rain, and watering during dry periods to maintain activity, will wash nutrients down into native soil. Enriched native soil, though fertile and rich, is not the aim due to heavy bulk. Besides, you would need to dig into the soil at each harvest of compost, creating a soil pit. I appreciate people who backyard compost, but this is hardly a solution for providing ideal nutrient amendments in a very small scale. You can collect the leaves from 4 very mature pecan or oak trees (an enormous volume), add kitchen scraps and faded crop material from last season, grass clippings, etc. and still end up with only 1 cubic foot of viable compost at the end of all that labor and care. Compost has to be well seasoned to avoid 'burning' the plants via temperature (compost not well seasoned will continue to 'compost' and create a great deal of heat- our piles remain steady at 135F at the center). For our small farm (3 acres), we have several cubic yards of compost delivered seasonally from a distributor that has the large machinery and irrigation systems in place to produce in large quantities at a reasonable cost (about $50/ cu yd and $80 delivery fee). We do still compost and use what is available at our farm. However, what we produce after at least 2 hours a week (for at very least 6 weeks) turning the compost and maintaining moisture levels via watering, etc., is hardly worth the time. It's rewarding in a bittersweet way, but at the end of the day: not any more beneficial to the crops than $10 worth of compost purchased. We do it because the other option is to burn the materials or to have them picked up as disposal at cost. Plus we have some space along the fence line to accommodate plant refuse (40ft x 15ft). Just fyi. What we've found more rewarding labor and material wise is to keep a worm bin. We provide the worms with constant nutrition via vegetable scraps and they produce worm castings that are, in a way, concentrated compost that is ready to use without concern for 'burning'. Caveat: I feel pretty downtrodden about small scale composting precisely because it's such a time and labor intensive practice. I can't count the number of compost piles that I've seen completely void of microbial activity due to neglect. It's a constant pull of energy, at twice a week, and most backyard gardeners simply do not have the bandwidth with their busy life schedules. I can count the number of healthy and active backyard compost piles I've seen : zero. So perhaps keep in kind that you can purchase a tumbling composter for the corner of your yard for $100+, spend an afternoon building the requisite 4ftx4ft bin at the cost of $40-50 in materials, or buy compost from an outside source. The tumblers are just terrible and a waste of money. They are typically black plastic, which in the sun will cook and kill any microbes at work or in the shade, not maintain enough warmth to encourage microbial activity. The moisture requirement is almost impossible to maintain without a specialized moisture meter. The bins are better, but not by much. You can fill that 4x4 to the brim every week with material, turn and water it every 3-5 days, and still only end up with ONE cubic foot of seasoned compost after a couple months. One cubic foot. Which is better than none, I suppose. Though I appreciate the interest and admire the gumption associated with small scale composting, I think that time and effort would be much better served elsewhere. For example, a soup kitchen or neighborhood garden or elementary school where you can instruct children on food production. Or an elderly neighbor who can't quite physically maintain her flower beds or afford a landscaper. Or volunteering at a neighborhood animal shelter. Or regrouting your bathroom tiles....See MoreAnnegriet
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