1900 folk victorian needs curb appeal help
meadowandcompany
3 years ago
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Embothrium
3 years agomeadowandcompany
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Appropriate Flooring for 1900s Folk Victorian kitchen
Comments (6)150-160 sq ft You DEFINITELY need to get that lasagna floor stack out of there. And, put serious effort into make the floor under the cosmetic layer as clean and well-done as possible. It's your only chance at preventing some issues. If you have to paint the subfloor with a porch paint floor rug because your whole budget went to getting a sound, level floor, that's OK. You can always add the cosmetics layer, but removing cabinets to level a floor is a PITA, and expensive. Tear it out down to the subfloor. Patch any holes. Check for level - the unevenness is possible due to the layers falling apart. There are two kinds of "not level: Flat surface, but slanting to one side or another ... in an old house this is almost normal. You can compensate by shimming the cabinets unless it's a couple inches out of whack. Not flat, but humped, with hills and valleys across the floor. This makes it hard to do a good job on the sheets of sub-floor ... If it's more than 1/2 inch or so, you need to remove the old flooring down to the joists and shim them level and replace the subfloor with 3/4 sheet OSB sheathing. (if you get to the old bottom level and see this, post for help!) If you have to, use a FLOOR levelling compound (levelling, not patching!). Avoid the cement-based ones, they crumble. Find one that stays FLEXIBLE. This stuff: http://www.truevalue.com/product/Paint-Supplies/Surface-Prep-Cleaning/Anchors-Levelers/DAP-Gallon-Ready-To-Use-Flexible-Floor-Leveler/pc/13/c/198/sc/1723/17543.uts Over the subfloor put standard 1/2" or 3/4" underlayment sheets, nailed or screwed according to the manufacturer's directions. Probably OSB strandboard, ... but should specify it's for floors. A pneumatic nailer would be a good investment here. This kind of stuff: http://www.homedepot.com/p/7-16-in-x-48-in-x-8ft-Oriented-Strand-Board-386081/202106230 TIP ... Make sure it's interlocking "brick" pattern when you lay it down, with the seams between one piece and another not aligning so you don't have weak corners with 4 pieces. Take your time planning the layout Don't use teensy pieces cobbled together along the edges to avoid buying another sheet - that is false economy and will bite you in the butt later. And mark the joists and TRY to have the seams along a joist. If the walls aren't square, cut the underlayment to lay snug along the walls. BTW, this is good practice for owning an old house - making things fit unsquare spots. TIP: If you don't run the flooring under the cabinets, seal the underlayment with a couple of coats of varnish under where the cabinets will go ... it keeps it from soaking up musty odors. The cosmetic layer: When the floor is levelled and ready for the cosmetics layer, check how much is left in your budget. :) Because you can't match the rest of the house, go "different" ... a darker wood, a different material. Kitchen floors then were often "linoleum" or other synthetic sheet goods, as well as stone, quarry tile or wood, so something as simple as a dark grey/light grey checkerboard vinyl square tile would be OK. Set diagonally? Or use colored squares - they come in an astounding array. You might find a sheet vinyl in a reasonably "period" pattern of slate Also, check commercial sheet flooring...See MoreCurb appeal side/back of house facing street 1900 Farm house
Comments (8)We have only owned the house for a year. You would be amazed how much tree/shrub cutting we have already done! All bradford pears were removed. Several hackberries removed and a LOT of tree limbing. We trimmed up the shrubs a bunch last year but didn't want to totally shock them. Took them down some more this year. So its a work in progress. All that to say...the property is actually very charming, even magical : ) There is LOTS of shade but also that pretty scattered light coming through the trees. My biggest concern is that brick chimney wall that faces the street. We have discussed Japanese Maple or Japanese LIlac tree. The maple is pretty but I'd love a flowering tree if possible. It is very shady though and don't know if the Lilac would do well? Appreciate any ornamental tree advise please. Here are the boxwoods when we purchased the house! There is one tall section left in the trimmed pic above b/c a robins nest with eggs are in there right now. But basically we have brought all of those down to porch level except the ones on the corners of house....See MoreNeed help updating the exterior mess! Curb appeal needed
Comments (42)While it will shrink your side yard, you might consider planting a couple of rows of cedar trees or other evergreen trees or shrubs )that keep their leaves year round) to create a "green fence" between the railroad track and your home. Not sure it would help with the sound but it certainly wouldn't hurt. After you plant the first row, plant the second row with those trees/shrubs blocking the view of any space between that first row....See MoreVictorian Folk or Victorian Farm House? Difference?
Comments (18)I recently went through this with my own house (built in 1892 in a large city), and it looks very similar to yours. And given my related education, I went down quite the research hole! First, the years given for eras of architecture, art, and design histories are the popular years — so it is possible for a person to build a Victorian house after it fell out of popularity, especially considering these particular architecture eras (Victorian, Edwardian, etc.) are based on the years of queens and kings (i.e., Queen Victoria‘s reign was 1837 to 1901). But I think there is definitely something to you finding the earlier record and the information about the fire. In my city, they started classification at the year 1900, so homeowners with the year 1900 have to take additional steps to dig deeper for the exact year — I got lucky and found my house with the label “being built” on an 1892 map. Secondly, the use of “folk” and “farm” are generalized terms. The style of your house is Victorian Carpenter Gothic — this is a specific type of the Gothic revival period that took place during the Victorian era. If it would’ve been built in a rural/farming area, then it would more so be referred to as folk or farm, or even Rural Gothic. The Carpenter Gothic house style was extremely popular throughout the US, as the invention of the scroll saw allowed basic carpenters to easily create ornate trim from wood or purchase it from mass-produced options. A general google search for Carpenter Gothic house will yield a ton of results from extremely ornate houses to simpler versions (like your house). I spent so much time looking at examples online to brainstorm the exterior rehab I’m doing, I finally checked out a book from my library called “Storybook Cottages: America’s Carpenter Gothic Style” by Gladys Montgomery, and it’s a great resource of photos and history — I highly recommend it! You can also buy it used on Amazon. And if you want to try and find your house on a map, one of the best sources are Sanborn maps; that’s where I found my house mapped. You can view a lot of these maps on the Library of Congress’s website, and then filter the results for your state, city, year, etc. The Sanborn Map Compamny was based out of New York, but they created maps all over the country specifically for fire insurance companies to use in assessing liability in urban areas — so the maps also include details concerning building materials, number of floors, etc....See MoreEmbothrium
3 years agoraee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agolaceyvail 6A, WV
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3 years agoHU-395397138
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3 years agomeadowandcompany
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3 years agoChristopher CNC
3 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
3 years agoSigrid
3 years agoraee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio
3 years agoHU-395397138
3 years agoDebbie Downer
3 years agoEmbothrium
3 years agoChristopher CNC
3 years ago
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