"Open" being not filled with cabinets. Not narrow depth on the sink run - all 3 of those elevations are the corner perpendicular to the sink run leading to the ?garage door. The first one is looking at the wall almost as you drew it. Just taking the two small base cabinets(12" drawers and 18" narrow depth and consolidating together as one narrow depth, all door cabinet. And replacing the cabinet from the window to the corner with open shelves. The second replaces the top cabinet between the window and the door and the narrow depth base with a 24-30" wide, tall narrow depth cabinet or even the 15" deep pax wardrobe with shelves. Still shows open shelves between the window and the sink run wall. The third kills everything. It's optimized for gear storage and not so much for counter area = you've kinda got a lot on the baker's table? Everything between the door and the corner is narrow depth. So, from the top down, those are two matching 39" tall by 36" wall cabinets down at counter height, depending on your ceiling height, you might be able stack more on top. You can have doors or not as you wish. The bottom is an array of narrow depth door cabinets, again with or without doors as you wish. The other thing I thought about was their wide sliding door units. Storage is directly provided by shelves and "drawers" by baskets or bins or the narrow depth drawers. There is an opportunity to make a counter bow out below the window for a "parking area" or perhaps your spouse could be cleaver with a wide pull-out counter. The exchange for the loss of the 12" drawers and the narrow depths is that the cabinet beside the cooktop - currently 12" drawers - could become 24" wide full depth drawers.

The weird part of the layout is the bump out where our daughter's closet is, by the stove. Husband isn't keen on taking that out, so for now it would be a work around. If the one wall comes out (where the "doors" are on the top wall), it will extend that part of the kitchen back out another 3.5-4' by 11'. (the rooms are currently offset, which I couldn't figure out how to show w/the planner so I just went ahead and made it so that wall was eliminated, making the dining area larger. Otherwise it would be like this, and not have a peninsula. There's nothing else I can think that could be changed to do w/the layout and traffic, so if you guys see something, feel free to point it out! The door on the left is the basement, that can't go anywhere, and the door on the right is an open doorway that goes to the living room, so that can't go anywhere. The door on the bottom wall is the patio door to the outside.

The arrangement of your uppers needs to be tweaked. If it were me, I'd take the ones on either side of the hood out and use an easy reach cabinet in the corner by the sink. The hood width looks the same as the cooktop and you'll want to increase it by 6 inches for good capture. Put one over the countertop next to the fridge. If open shelves are the way you want to go, they'll terminate nicely between the uppers instead of losing storage in that corner. You'll need filler next to your oven cab for those doors to open. It'll move everything to the left enough that the flying cab will look especially awkward. You want to pick either bringing cabs down on either side of the hood or give it some breathing room (depends on the chimney). The over-the-fridge cab is unusual. Not sure if that's just a place holder but think about how the lines are going across the room, from the cabinet doors. You'll want to maintain that continuity. Do you really want no trim at the ceiling for transition? I'm going minimal, myself, but I think the top of the cabs need something. It doesn't look like you have enough leg room for all of the counter stools, looking at the corner closest to us, so that's something to address if the number of seats is important to you.

I have had Pax closets for 10years. I don't have doors on them but I have taken than apart and rebuilt them several times as I did things in the closet. I would never use a normal closet versus the Ikea Pax. California Closet is very expensive and less flexible in my opinion. I would use one of the Italian systems from Minotti but those were about half the value of my house:-) My master closet is a galley with two 6foot long sections with 24" deep by 96" tall Pax systems. They hold a ton of stuff. There are similar sized systems in the other bedrooms. I have kids that spend the summers with me and they have never damaged these systems. The drawers pull out easily and I have added some updates like the valet rods and Hafele pull down closet rod. I love the pull out shelves for my shoes. I have a small number of shoes:-) The other update I was looking at is some interior lighting for the units using LED strips. I know you decision is made but there is some misinformation about the PAX system. There are a ton of door options and even inserts from non Ikea sources. At roughly $90 for the box, it really can't be beat for value. There are some size constraints but most closets can support the Pax units. Some Pax fronts that are super cool: SuperFronts From Remodelista Good luck!