Jen - popup campers and condensation are a way of life! Like you I have been awakened by drops of water hitting me in the face! Now, I've seen all kinds of posts regarding this subject and have tried all kinds of remidies, some helped a little, some helped a great deal. First off, let me tell you I have had the camper popt-up in the driveway overnight, no one in it and all zipped-up and the next morning have condensation all on the inside of the canvas. Had to take an old towel and wipe it down! Now this was with no one breathing inside the thing, no cooking going on and no heat source of any kind; I'm sure if there were, it would have been worse! Last year, while steelhead fishing in northern Michigan, we got caught in a cold front that had a lot of rain and finally turned into a real sleeting snow storm - really got a lesson on what helps to reduce condensation in a big way. First off, it always helps to ventilate if your producing more humidity on the inside then there is outside. But if it's 100% humidity outside, just venting will not be that much of a help. I've found that circulating the heated air inside the camper will help to some degree. To that end, I picked up from the automotive dept at Wally-Mart, a 12 volt oscilating fan that can be clamped to the counter top and with the fan aimed to the ceiling, have the fan just sweep the roof of the camper, fore to aft. This fan plugs into a cigar lighter in a vehicle so I had a receptacle made up that plugs into the outlet on each of the ceiling lights and the fan plugs into the receptacle. But the best thing I've found to help the condensation on the canvas bunk ends is to cover them with plastic tarps. Just that little additional covering will help insulate the bunk end canvas enormously. In the case of the sleet storm in northern Michigan, there was just a slight dampness to the interior canvas ... PLUS the camper was warmer! I've figured out how to connect the plastic tarps to my bunk ends using bungie cords along with some parachute cord - and it stays snug - even during a driving sleet/snow storm! Dale

tncraft - What did you use as a secondary exit? Tunnel, stairs leading outside of house? That was our first concern was getting stuck if the house fell on the basement door, some forums mention breathable air can become a concern in the concrete rooms too so second exit is a good idea. Yeah this idea does seem excessive to some, but better safe than sorry right? When SHTF everyone will be crowded around my basement trying to break in to my vienna sausage and tuna reserves ;)j/k but unless you've went through Hurricane Katrina or cleaned up the damage from the Tornado that hit Tuscaloosa, AL last year then you just can't understand what it's like. I have two children and if a 10k basement only saves them once in their lifetime it'll be worth every penny and being labeled as crazy ;) live_wire_oak - My grandfather did the same thing but used a large round cylinder (maybe was used to hold oil?), he only had to use it once during Hurricane Fredrick, it saved 10 peoples lives (my mother included) a tornado hit during the hurricane and went straight through the house. The cylinder was pounded a few yards away but stayed in the ground. I think some beams penetrated it but not enough to reach everyone inside. I say use whatever works.

What has me worried is where this moisture is coming from, and why is it getting trapped in the dead air space between storm and sash. I would remove the storms and scrape all of the edges where they interface with the window casing. Then you cam reinstall them, making sure that they are not painted or caulked in at all. The storms keep wind and water away from the main window, but being a wood system, it needs to be able to let water vapor out to avoid the condition that you have. I would do a quick check to verify that some other problem is not contributing, like a blocked gutter, pipe leaking in an above wall (is that a soffit I see on the ceiling that is concealing some plumbing from the second floor?). Old windows need regular maintenance. When the maintenance if deferred, they may need an additional infusion of energy to repair, but they are systems made of many serviceable or replaceable parts. Don't get ensnared by the idea that replacement windows are a permanent or even mid-to-long term fix. Their service life is 10-15 years, and then, _then_ they will need to be completely replaced again, because they are a complex, integrated and non-user-serviceable system. Casey

We live in a cold weather climate and have a skylight in the middle of our master bath ceiling. The bathroom is about 12 ft long. The shower is on one end and the exhaust fan is actually on the opposite end. In the 20 years that we have lived in this house, there has never been condensation forming on the skylight glass and dripping down the shaft. Maybe your exhaust fan is inadequate. We also have 2 skylights in our great room . The house is 33 years old. We did replace the roof and and all the skylights a couple years ago. No problem with previous skylights or current skylights dripping. They are flat glass skylights. We did use Velux brand skylights. Here is the bathroom set up. The exhaust fan is not shown but it is in the far right corner beyond the vanity and above the toilet. With all that being said, in our previous house we had a skylight in our kitchen that did collect condensation on the glass and it would drip down the shaft. I don’t recall what brand that skylight was. For a few years we would get up on a ladder and put 3M window film on the skylight in the winter months. It solved the condensation problem put was a pain in the butt to put up there. We finally had a storm window made and installed on the skylight. The "storm window" was attached on the inside. If my memory serves me correctly, it was a framed acrylic panel that was attached to the skylight. It solved the condensation problem and the problem with installing window film each winter. I hope you find a solution to your problem.