Susan, I didn't get any Tithomia sprouts either, this is my first year at growing them-er, trying to grow them!! Thanks for the hint onafixedincome, now just to do some headhunting!! This is one milkweed I'd like to order. -B

Your descriptions are a bit confusing. In the text with the first picture you stated that the 2" on the upper left side is the vent, while the 2" extending to the right is the drain line from the lavatory (bathroom sink). If that is correct, then both of those lines are illegal. If that were in fact a vent line with nothing else attached it would be illegal because code prohibits any horizontal run of a vent until the vent reaches an elevation at least 6" higher than the flood level rim of the highest fixture served by that vent. If that 2" line is in fact the drain line from the lavatory it is also illegal. The code mandated size for a lavatory bowl drain is 1-1/4". The code will permit increasing the size of a line or trap by a maximum of one nominal trade size, which would then be 1-1/2" so 2" is again illegal. (Note: the lavatory bowl is the only fixture in a house that is permitted a 1-1/4" line. Most plumbers now opt to use the code exception and install an 1-1/2" trap and line to preclude the necessity of maintaining a separate inventory of pipe and fittings for this limited use. In fact, installing the 1-1/2" trap and line have become so commonplace that most hardware stores and home supply centers no longer carry 1-1/4" pipe and fittings, although they do carry the 1-1/4" traps and trap adapters) Under your second picture you state that the 2" to the right is the drain line for you bathtub. If that is the case, then am I correct in assuming that the line on the upper right is connected to you lavatory? If that line is connected to the lavatory and if there is a vent line extending upwards from the lavatory location your vent is correct. The portion up to the lavatory tee connection would be a "Combined waste & Vent" and it may have a horizontal section. Now in regards to your fittings; If that riser on the left is going up to the lavatory then extending up to the roof for a vent you may install the 2x3x3 sanitary tee as you have it laid out. The Wye fitting for the tub drain should be a 3x1-1/2x3 Wye and the side opening MUST BE configured so that the side opening in on the side of the pipe. If you are under the IRC you could then have up to 6Â of 1-1/2" pipe from the Wye to the tub trap without requiring any additional venting, or you may opt to use the 2" that you have in which case the line could be up to 8Â from the Wye to the trap. (If your under the UPC a 1-1/2" line may extend 3Â6" or a 2" line may extend 5Â without any additional venting) The 1/4bend under your closet flange is correct and the water closet will not require any additional venting.

greg: Yes, this appears to be a line that we hacked into. Interesting idea on how to trace its origin. joe: did you repair it (i.e., put it back together) or remove/plug it up? john: 100% of our household sewage goes out a drainpipe in the corner of our house marked "main sewer line" in the drawing above. We know this because it's all visible from the basement and because Mr. Weedy personally ripped out and redid all the plumbing in the entire house. We also know that that sewer line feeds into the street (not upstream to where that other pipe is) because we had a clog 6 months ago, snaked it out, called out the water company, etc. I did call the public works department and left a message. No return call yet.

So, I ended up decided to build out the wall and re-doing the soffit work up to the ceiling so it was even and flush. I left a cutout for the fridge (I didn't have the extra room there) but with the build out the oven now runs even to the counters (pipes don't make it stick out) and the pipes do not go through any cabinets. The decision added about $2k extra to my job since I also had to have the electrical ruff in work redone once I had the new wall built.. But, I feel like this was the best option. The kitchen cabinet design plan had enough wiggle room to account for the extra 3 inches on the bottom cabinets. Luckily, I hd enough room so the upper cabinets had the extra 3 inches without covering the window, so it worked with the new wall. However, since I didn't account for the bump out in the upper cabinets in the original design (and they were already ordered), when I centered the cabinets around my kitchen windows, my uppers fell short on the right of the window and do not match up, in line, with my lowers (they are a few inches short at the end). It doesn't bother me and all in all, the look was good, and it could have been much worse! I will look for photos and post some here, Let me know if you have other questions!