Double Pocket Door Installation (Electrical Question)
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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install pocket door in new wall build in front of existing wall??
Comments (17)Well, I opened the wall Friday and I found two heating ducts in the way in one wall and two supply pipes and a waste pipe in the other, so the usual pocket door is dead. Guess what else I found, two splices of 15 amp lines, and not the first time I've found shortcuts and outright code violations in this house. I won't say who built this house but it rhymes with A$$hole Bros. Matt, the doors I want to hang weight 100 lb. Do you think that on the wall track who gave me a link to is robust for long term track stability? The instructions claim good for 150 lb but I'm paranoid. Perhaps to be totally safe, should I construct a new frame from whense to hang the track in the usual fashion. Or am I just being an old woman. Don't want to open up the wall in 10 years to fix a sagging track. Brick, I'm a little confused. By 1X lumber, do you mean frame the wall next to the door with 1X2s and then attach 3/8 plywood to it, finally cover with 3/8" drywall? Or would the plywood go first and then the 1X2s to attach the drywall? Thanks!...See MoreWere my pocket doors installed correctly?
Comments (10)For painted pocket doors I always add a 2 inch wide strip to the pocket edge. This strip blocks the edge of the pocket and also allows the door to stay engaged on a piece of aluminum angle I place on the floor of the pocket. A groove in the bottom of the door runs almost to the 'show' edge. The aluminum stops the swinging cold, and unlike the plastic guides that come with the doors does not scratch the paint. For stained doors with any decoration (panels, etc.) you can attach a strip and paint it black, or order wider doors and rip some of the 'show' edge off. This keeps the decoration centered when the door is closed. The pocket is of course sized slightly larger to account for the extra door width. I saw some kits for doubles to make them close together somewhere, but I have been making them using steel sliding door pulleys and 1/16 inch steel cable for a long time. A couple simple brackets attach the top of the door to the cable to make everything move together. Stops (single or double) can be added opposite the pocket to block light on that edge. Van Dykes Restorers has a number of pulls available for the face of the door. They also have brass edge pulls. Renovators Supply used to have edge pulls and a few face pulls. I have built the locks the last few times I needed them, since outside of salvage there is just not much available that is anything but clunky modern looking....See MoreDouble pocket doors or hinged doors?
Comments (28)What did you do? (Warning: Novel coming:) I am here to tell you that antique pocket door hardware is perfect, but 50s through early 90s hardware is AWFUL. Who ever thought a J channel would hold a door that gets a lot of use was an idiot. But not as big an idiot as anyone who installed it and walked away. It is ALL in the installation. I've put in 15 pocket doors using the Johnson Hardware's extruded tracks, with their 3-wheel system. No matter what the weight, I always use 3 rollers. Not only can I, a self-taught, dangerous DIYer, do it, but it's well balanced and beautiful. You don't need those giant pocket door kits, either. A 2x6 base plate, then 2x4s turned sideways down either side of the 2x6 makes the channel. The hardware goes on the top, add wheels, bumpers, trim and DONE. DONE I SAY! Your hardware fears are only valid if the same installation you're experiencing is used again, or the installation is too quick or faulty. I don't know what I'd do without the 9 extra square feet in my rooms. I've even used antique French doors (perfect for your dining room!?) in 3 of them. In the other doors, I'm using antique, horizontal 6-panel doors (harder to find than the 5-panel and cooler doors, I think) which are solid and beautiful. More interesting than any slab door. The only other tip I would suggest is to make certain they're exterior thickness, which is at least 1.75" thick. Interior doors these days are usually 1 3/8" thick and rather flimsy for a pocket. Today I'm installing the trim on the last of the French doors I'm using. It's an antique (i.e. also reclaimed) and just beautiful. Great sight line from the window in the mudroom, into the kitchen. Gives me more light than my dark kitchen than I'd had before. As you can see, I can't rave enough about my pockets. Don't let some contractor tell you they're too difficult or more expensive. Show them this DIYer's post and I'll help their pro-butts out. Remember, if this (nitwit) chick can do it, a pro should do it with their hammer tied behind their back....See MoreDouble pocket doors - New Wall
Comments (5)Thank you for the info! I've actually changed my plans and will use 5/8 drywall instead. Also, I'm a bit green so I didn't know about the slab/prehung meaning when it came to pocket doors. Due to this, I'll purchase two 1 3/8in slab french doors. Currently debating if I want to go the MDF route or not since $$$. The contractor will be supplying the wall studs, baseboards, quarter rounds and door casing. For the door jambs, do I have to purchase ones there are specific for double pocket doors? Perhaps I'll ask the contractor if he can cut them himself. Yes, the kits include the rolling hardware. (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026T12IC/ref=sxr_pa_click_within_right_aps_sr_pg1_1?psc=1) Thanks again for the guidance....See MoreRelated Professionals
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