Cap or replace stair treads/risers with hardwood after carpet removal
Mark S
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Mark S
2 years agoG & S Floor Service
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Stairs - replace carpet with hardwood, etc.
Comments (6)Thanks for the replies! Here's another example of the before/after of what I'm trying to do - although my staircase is open on the entire side where the "kneewall" needs to be cut down (like the first link above) versus just 5 stairs. http://www.mitrecontracting.com/stairway-remodel.html. I did find out that they do plan to just cut down the kneewall and put the new treads over the "newly exposed stringer" (from estimate). The estimate is just about half of what the full replacement quotes. One of the other estimates says: "Remove existing stair & rail systems, stair back. Cut access hole to get under lower section if needed and cut down existing rake wall and install new [list of new stair info, including stringers, treads, risers, etc.]. Here is a link that might be useful: Before/After Example...See Moreconverting stairs from carpet to hardwood - DIY?
Comments (16)I recently went through this carpet->wood on stairs conversion myself. We had 17 stairs + a landing and an extra step up to the landing. I used pre-finished 5" maple planks (engineered) on the treads to match the wood in the rest of the house. We bought pre-finished nosing for each step ($$$). For the risers I used 1/2" birch plywood painted white (nice contrast with the dark wood). Overall, I'm happy with the end result. However, it wasn't easy and took a long time. 1) it's a lot of work, and, if you don't put some thought and time into it, it will show 2) Walls and stairs are rarely straight, perpendicular, parallel, or aligned in any direction to make this job easier. Each and every cut will be unique 3) Our staircase has a stringer on each side - no balusters to worry about, but that doubles the number of unique cuts to make 4) pre-finished nosing is expensive. Our steps are 42" wide. The nosing comes in 78" sticks. I didn't want a splice in the nosing, so that meant one stick for every stair 5) After we started, I found some places online that sell one piece treads. I'm not sure that it would have been cheaper than fitting multiple planks on each step, but it would probably be a lot less cutting. 6) with 17 steps, the less trips down to the saw and up to test the fit on the top step the better. Of course the top stairs are probably going to be the ones hardest to get right I found the hardwoodflooringtalk website to be very useful during our entire install. There are several guides and a busy message forum. I recommend you (or DH) spend some time browsing it before starting. Unfortunately THS won't let me post a link to them here, but a google search for "hardwood flooring talk" should get you there. Good luck!...See MoreNeed Advice on Hardwood Stair Installation
Comments (12)I am sorry if this is an obvious question, but why would removing carpet and replacing with wood cause an issue with the rise & run & result in the red tag mentioned above? I am guessing the thought is that the carpet is thicker than the hardwood? Doe this this mean the allowance on the rise & run could be so tight that it no longer meets the guideline with the small change to wood? Why is is suggested to replace the entire tread? We are considering replacing carpet on our steps with hardwood and this is my first visit to the forum to research, these answers may become obvious to me soon!...See MoreStaircase Carpet to Hardwood project
Comments (12)Lots of negative waves here! :) We did a lot of thinking and measuring before we jumped in on the project. The above you issues you have all mentioned were big concerns of mine as well, but a lot of details fell in to place. I ended up ordering oak stair treads that were made to order. 1/2 thick on the main tread, return on front and both sides at 1.5" tall (to wrap existing tread), with a 1.5" return extending past the tread. They look very nice and appear to be constructed well. Prior to install, they will get stained and sealed when we get our hardwood floors refinished in a couple of weeks. Regarding liability and code, all of that has been taken in to account and they will actually be better than the original build. On the staircase, the first step from the top, just happened to have a higher rise by 1/2" than all of the other stairs, and the bottom step happened to have 1/2" less than all of the other treads, so after the retrofit they be more in code and consistent throughout the staircase than they were before the retrofit. After removing and numbering all of the spindles, we were able to take out the threaded shaft in the bottoms, cut 1/2" shorter and reinstall a wooden dowel back in its place which will fit in to the drilled holes on the tread. We made up a plumb bob with a dowel rod that fits in to the hole on the underside of the railing. When plugged in, it will give us area to drill the hole for the spindle. There is enough play on the top end of the spindle in to the railing that we will be able to raise them enough to install the tread, lower the spindle base dowel in to the hole, and then secure with a brad nailer. So far so good. Our floor refinishing got put off for a couple of weeks as prior to doing the floors, we had a contractor remove all of our popcorn ceilings in our vaulted living room, kitchen, dining room, mud room, and hallway. That should be removed and painted by within the next two weeks, and the floors are scheduled for Oct 18th. In the interim, I have dry fit all of the treads and numbered them for the steps. Many of them needed some light sanding on the inside of the side returns to properly fit over the exterior trim piece we installed on the sides of the staircase. We will be now be dry fitting, plumb bob, and drill the holes for the spindles so that once the steps are stained, we can do the final install....See MorePatricia Colwell Consulting
2 years agoci_lantro
2 years agoTBL from CT
2 years agoMark S
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
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