I used a high-hiding oil based all-purpose primer, Benjamin Moore 024 00, then applied topcoat of 100% acrylic latex point. After two years it is still in perfect condition, with no bleed through from the newer high-copper wood preservative. The trick is to leave the pressure treated wood exposed to the elements for at least a couple of months before attempting to paint. Don

Here's the deal, from my perspective. I put in a garapa deck (same install method as ipe) DIY and managed fine on my own, first time. If I can do it, there's no reason a pro couldn't do a great job on his first project either. I don't think experience is as important as a willingness to learn and to take the time to do it right (pre-drill, plug, etc.) BTW, the other characteristic of the wood that's different is that because of the density of the wood makes it a bit harder to straighten than PT. Nothing that a girl with a BoWrench can't handle, but it is a bit more temperamental in that regard. As for timing, IIRC, once I got in my groove, I think I averaged about 15 minutes per 16' board, including setting, pre-drilling, and screwing (not plugging), with framing 16" OC. A little longer when I had to rip down, or cut around posts, of course.

David Man!!! how ya doing?? Deck HoundIt turned out the ol Ken was relabeling drift on over to www.woodrich-brand.com You know me I am still with twp. Both these product are resin base and act a lot the same way. WR takes a little longer to set up but I tried it on my staircase at Butler Manor last year no problems at all still looks the same as the day it went on. I always wondered how those PH 4x4 post held up and did you get them straighted up. I do remember you did have a job refinishing around the alum balusters. That is one super fine project. John Mon

Ken mon man!!! are you a chemist or did you stay at a holiday inn express last night!! LOL...(just some kind ribbin)...being a chemist and having 4+ years of pulp and paper science under my belt just wanted to clarify the acetone will indeed dissolve not emulsify the natural wood resins which are lipophilic (fat loving) extractives composed mainly of fatty acids, resin acids, sterols, steryl esters and triglycerides. So most of the surface resins will be completely removed with your rag,towel, or mop and what remains on the surface (acetone and residual resin) will have the acetone evaporate well before you get back to that area to coat with TWP or the like....thus the resins will return to their initial solid or semi-solid state....I think I know what you were trying to say but a little off in the actual chemistry...The other thing that will happen is that if a copious amount of acetone is used the resins will be solublized and penetrate further into the wood....effectively allowing more exposed "raw" wood for the coating to bind to. Acetone WILL dry out the wood as it is miscible(mixes) with water and will allow water to evaporate (azeotrope) at a lower temperature...it is often used in wood preservation where the wood is soaked 3+ times in acetone to remove ALL water and then dipped in a acetone/rosin mix.....then the acetone evaporates and leaves a rosin caoting protecting the wood.... Acetone is also frequently used in the pulp and paper mills to extract these types of wood resins to improve the strength of the paper products we use... so I don't think it matters about sealing immediately after acetone wash....but it may help to do the acetone rinse last to help with the drying process you require after the RAD treatment (1-2 day of warm/hot weather to get back to 12%?? moisture)...the acetones removal of water will be immediate and may speed the drying process as well as removing any residual oxalic acid