The "oil finishes" are hardwax oil products that are applied as a single coat. They are traditionally a matte finish and they require maintenance by the homeowner. You must be prepared for the maintenance. Many of the factory finished engineered floors with oil finishes can require (or would benefit from) an application of maintenance oil applied as soon as they are installed. This isn't a huge issue (because it is relatively easy) but it is something that most people do not know and therefore "miss" the opportunity to add this little bit of extra love at the beginning. Once installed, the oil floors are beautiful, raw-looking wood finish. They are low gloss. If you are someone who likes the look of a "clean shiny floor" then you will be horribly disappointed by the floors and will spend days and days trying to "clean" the floors to a "shine" - without any success. Tears are soon to follow. As for "UV oil finish" this is just a fun way of saying the factory used UV lights to speed up the curing of the finish. Instead of 2-3 days, the cure can be reduced to a few minutes under UV lighting. That's it. That's the whole difference. Other than that, UV cured vs. natural cured hardwax "oil" finishes are the same beast. If you love the look of oil finished flooring, then go for it. But PLEASE FIND OUT the maintenance requirements and purchase ALL of the maintenance products at the same time that you purchase the floor. That includes any "colour oil" products used to create the colour at the factory. Once the floor has been delivered, I would find a "culled" or warped plank (an imperfect plank that will not be installed) and start playing with your maintenance products on the board (or boards) so that you are well schooled BEFORE a little "oopsa" occurs. It will make your life MUCH easier.

I've said all along that a VERY GOOD laminate (8mm - 12mm WITHOUT underpad) will out perform a medium grade LVP. I like using 6mm cork underlayment for sound and heat. As a former cork flooring sales person, I've done laminate + cork many many times. A 6mm cork underlay underneath a HORRIBLE laminate ($0.79/sf...as an example) feels VERY solid underfoot. So long as you do NOT need it in a kitchen or bath, there is no reason to use LVP throughout. No reason at all (other than you can tell your friends you used it).

In one word: Cork. Cork can be found in a floating floor plank. It comes in thicknesses between 10mm and 15mm (10.5mm - 12mm is common). I would figure out how HIGH the carpet stood and how much clearance the door has and work with those numbers. For instance, if your door has a snick more than 3/4" clearance, I would find a 10.5 or 11mm thick cork floating plank (7/16") and ADD 6mm cork underlayment (1/4") so that the TOTAL floor height is roughly 3/4" tall. Do that for ALL areas. I would then go ahead and add (so long as the cork allows it) a coat or two of protective finish like Loba 2K Supra AT. This coating adds SCRATCH resistance AND slip resistance (it has some of the best anti-slip ratings on the market). It ALSO adds moisture resistance...such as when a leaking pet (or human...spills happen) accidently loses control, the finish on top will prevent permanent damage to the planks. The cork will mimic the carpet absorption. Not quite perfect but very very close. You will still hear the deep thud of HARD footsteps (like thumping out of bed in a huff...whhhhhhaaaaaaat???Teenage girls NEVER do THAAAT ;-P www.icorkfloor.com Have a look. It can't hurt. If nothing else, it gives you a GREAT place to purchase 6mm or 12mm cork underlay for laminate. LVP does NOT like underpad. LVP will mimic what you hear RIGHT NOW. It doesn't like underpad. So much so that most Condo boards do NOT allow LVP in living areas because of noise complaints.

Cork is an excellent carpet replacement product. It is warm and quiet underfoot. It comes in two formats: A floating click-together format for 'dry' areas and a glue down tile for wet areas such as bathrooms and mud rooms. Yep...you heard me. The glue down cork tile is 100% water proof. As in MORE water proof than vinyl click together products. How? The glue down cork tiles are butted together (no grout lines) when installed. They are then coated x2 with water based polyurethane. The poly seals the seams to create a continuous sheet of cork. The only areas of concern (as with ALL floors in a bathroom) would be at the walls where cork meets drywall. I'm a cork flooring expert. I've done this more times than I can count. A situation like yours were you do NOT want to refinish the entire house because two rooms had issues. Cork is an oak. It has many of the same colour tones as White and Red oak. In fact it starts out quite orange (sigh...ignore that phase of it's life...it doesn't last very long) but soon calms down to a lovely soft yellow which is IDENTICAL to the current laminates you have. Here's how I would do it: I would pick a floating floor that has an IDENTICAL glue down tile option. I would install the floating floor in the bedroom. This gives you the 'total' floor height that you need to match. Now you remove the bathroom flooring and lay in new plywood OR cement backer board (cork doesn't care) to raise the floor up. Now you glue down the cork tile (6mm or 8mm) so that it matches the existing floating floor. Finish the floor in two coats of polyurethane and Voila! A continuous floor with minimal effort. A glue down tile floor (if you hire this part out) is going to cost (labour plus materials) the same as a porcelain tile installation. That's roughly $12-$15/sf. Sounds horrible until you realize you have 30sf to cover...now that's not too bad! A floating cork floor will cost (roughly) the same as a HIGH END vinyl floor installation ($4-$5/sf for materials + $3/sf for labour). www.icorkfloor.com Cork Flooring Tiles Glue Down - Forna Silver Birch 6mm Flooring (icorkfloor.com) Floating Cork Floor - 12mm Forna Floating Cork Flooring (icorkfloor.com) Those are just and example of how to get a continuous floor in two different formats of cork.