Thanks Worthy ! I have contacted American Garage Door Supply and they replied very quickly. They have 2 that they recommend that are both air powered operators ... Supralift II for $1400 that is a "jackshaft" style operator ... and NuMax for $2200 that is a "trolley or drawbar" style operator. They both are completely designed to be corrosion resistant (and used in commercial car washes). I also called Overhead Door Co. They recommend their Genie SilentMax 1000 or 1200. It has a belt drive (instead of chain that will rust) and the track is aluminum (instead of steel). It sells in Home Depot for about $200. According to cust service, this is the same model as their professinal model IntelliG 1000 or 1200 that sells thru their dealers. What I have right now is a 1/2hp LiftMaster chain drive that is already rusting and hindering the movement in barely over one year of use. The main problem is with the track that the trolley travels on ... it is already getting so rusty that it creates tension on the travel and activates the safety feature which of course stops the door. Also, it binds up. Our installer recommended that we spray it with Liquid Wrench (not WD40) and it helped at first, but not so much anymore. I also sent an email to Chamberlain / LiftMaster, but they have not responded yet. Who else manufactures garage door openers that I can contact ?

Autumn, oicu, jdez, skyangel -- Thanks for the comment on the Blanco sticker. It does look like someone tried to remove it, and now it is warped :/ I would like it to stay on so as not to leave any residue or something, since it does look like it is meant to stay. Oicu, we have the same sink, but different colors. Ours is truffle. It was our original choice to match the faucet, but I went back and forth between that and metallic gray. Jdez, nice sink! That was another option I was looking at, but didn't get to see an actual sample. Musicgal-- Lovely home! Robynstamps -- Almost there! We are 2 weeks away from closing. The windows that are not in the center have yet to be corrected, but we have been told we are still on track. The deck is done. Yesterday they started on the wood floors and carpet. Appliances have been coming in (basement refrigerator has 2 big dents and needs to be replaced). Closets have been started as well. Lights need to go up, and plumbing fixtures are being installed here and there. We come at the end of the day and see 2 additional faucets in, it's crazy. Still waiting on more trim material (lots were not up to the trim carpenter's standards). Other things that need to get started: kitchen backsplash, wallpaper, window treatments. Hope we make it!! We are closing on our current house too. Lots of packing going on that is why I haven't been here much. Wish us luck!

I have to echo Mike's WOW!... Actually, I agree 100% that the builder should have replaced the glass in that door, but the question was whether or not the crack contributed to the ultimate failure of the door panel...not whether or not the builder should have replaced the glazing. What I said still stands, IF the door was correctly built in the first place, it is extremely unlikely that the crack in the glazing was the cause of the failure. Much more likely is that the crack could have been related to some other problem with the door. That was the reason I asked all those questions in the earlier post...I wanted to know who made this thing and possibly how it was made before commenting on that specific area. When tested for certification, impact products are tested as a unit and not as individual components. It isn't a test jig for glass and one for hardware and one for frame, it is a completed and fully functioning window or door...it is absolutely necessary to make sure that the individual components work together as a team to ensure that the window or door meets requirements. Windows and doors are constructed exactly as they are spec'd and they are mounted into test frames exactly as they are required to be mounted into rough openings on site. If on site mounting requires stainless steel screws 6" on center, then they are mounted in the test buck using stainless steel screws 6" on center. Obviously testing cannot anticipate all contingencies of actual storm conditions, but to date impact rated windows and doors have very much exceeded any other "hurricane resistant" add-ons (shutters, plywood, etc) in protection performance during actual storms. There are two separate test protocals that the units have to go thru to achieve "hurricane resistant" status. There is an air/water/structural test and there is the impact and cycle test. Non-impact resistant windows also go thru the air/water/structural, but only impact resistant go thru the impact/cycle test. "Ordinary" windows also have the air/water/structural requirement, but the level of protection in this area is the indicator of "hurricane resistance". In the structural test, the window or door is subjected to pressure 1.5 times the rated design pressure of the window or door in PSF. Although there is a relationship between PSF and windspeed, it isn't a simple matter of doubling pressure to double windspeed. In fact, the ratios between the design pressures are the square of the ratios of the windspeeds...or for example: 9psf = 60mph 36psf = 120mph 144psf = 240mph In the structural test if a unit has a DP rating of 40, then it is tested to 60psf for those few seconds - or 1.5 times the structural rating of the unit. In the impact / cycle test, the pressure portion of the test does not exceed the rated design pressure of the unit. If the window is rated to 40psf, then it is tested to 40psf. I would have liked to have that door in my possession following the failure in order to to see if it was possible to determine the failure mode. I hope that davidg12 (or someone) contacted the manufacturer after the fact and let them know about the failure. If it was a major company then I would be curious to know if they wanted that unit back in order to run a post analysis of possible failure mode.

Yes but it is tricky since there are so many variations. Many companies make aftermarket hardware that fit other doors- Emtek is one. You may find it easier to find out who manufactured your doors and buy the hardware directly from them