That could be why it's just dirt - nothing will grow, but this is an inner city school in a district with major budget issues, and until a few years ago, was pretty neglected over all, so it's also possible there's been no one to care for it properly. I'm just now getting involved. We have an outdoor education program funded mainly by donation and PTA help and sales (herb sales, plant sales), so funds are indeed sparse although we can get man/kidpower and I'm working hard on donations of materials. We do have a few large planters for veg/herbs and another raised bed on one end . We'll be working on that over the next couple of weeks. hmmm, crushed granite. That may be an option. I'll need to see if there's any reason why not. I know some parents have complained about it at another non-school location. Finishing off the edges is definitely a good idea. I'd like to fill it in a bit so it's not so ugly/muddy/dirty, but it also needs to be usable space. I have shadowturf (I think it's the same as turffalo) at my house, just around the corner, and it is AMAZING in heavy shade. but, it's super expensive and spreads far too slowly - if we waited til school's out to plant, it's too hot/dry, but if we plant in March, the plugs would be a mess with school in. And even if we took plugs from my yard to save money, it'd take years to fill in. :( I'm afraid to ask too many questions of the admin in advance, for fear they'll just put me off saying "no, not possible" to general ideas. So I want to plan it out with estimated costs/funding sources and longer term expenses (like watering, altho there is a sprinkler running once per week, no idea why since it's dirt!) before I even bring it up. My short experience has already taught me that "ideas" get shot down immediately, "plans" get consideration. Ideally I'll let the kids do some research into various options, but I'll have to steer them in the right direction ;)

OGRose, our backyard neighborlady turned 80 last month. She lives by herself and every Monday cuts her really big yard with a push (gas) lawnmower. She has a wonderful garden, goes for a walk each morning with another neighborlady, and is the best neighbor I've ever had. She doesn't want to leave her home, built by herself and her departed hubby back in 1950. I think gardening is a great way to keep active and having a reason to get up every morning. I would not want to give that up either. Currently I am adding hosta to my garden, and they take about 5 or 6 years to mature. I hope I am able to remember what it was I planted if I'm still around in 6 or so years, because I dearly love these plants. I'm assuming the retirement community will allow a little genteel gardening in personal space? Balcony or patio?

1) Regarding the screws.... For the drawer faces: Pocket holes should be drilled into the face frames if they must be attached permanently vs using the hardware to keep them on. The pocket holes should have covers attached (either the plastic or wood options). I personally prefer if they are removable via removal of the hardware so they can be changed out or refaced in the future & since you're going the custom route I'd defiantly want it! Inside the cabinets: A pilot hole should be drilled prior to screw if the wood hardness requires it & the screw counter sunk (slightly below the side walls) with or without plastic caps (depending on the company). Cabinet/Wall Brace:Are all the cabinets secured to the wall with simple screws?? I was really surprised to see this! How are they making sure the bases are secured to studs & not just drilled through into the gypsum board? In the past I've seen cabinet makers use a base board across the run anchored into wall studs and the bases are then secured to the board. Holes: The hole that will be exposed once the dishwasher is installed needs to be fixed. The fridge cabinet with the double screws and the blank hole is ridiculous...whomever was doing the install rushed and didn't care about screw placement or taking the time to properly aline things before drilling. Again= Custom built should = quality control and care! Yes there are MUCH better ways of finding the studs...even just using your knuckles to knock on the wall can get you close enough that a max of 2 holes might need drilled if you miss it the first time....again, sloppy work installing. The range microwave: Did they know that cabinet was going to support a microwave/hood? I'd ask about the install and max weight support. I don't believe 2 screws is enough to hold it (especially if they only screwed it into the wall & not a support board!) but don't know...I'd just hate to have it come crashing down a year from now! *You need to make sure the cabinet makers know that screw placement & finish result is important to you and you expect no screws will be felt or seen once the install is complete. 2) Shims: Yes, it's totally normal for wood shims to be left under the cabinets. Floors aren't completely level and in a new build the house will settle over time and the floor will change so it's important that the cabinets can be leveled. This is why RTA cabinets like IKEA have adjustable feet on the base that's hidden with a toe kick. Custom cabinet makers use wood shims to level on site during install and those can then be removed or added to as time goes on and any changes are required to keep the cabinets level. 3) Fixture & Outlet Holes: Yes, it's common to have large square pre-cut from the backs before install as plumbing is different for every job & since fixtures change depending on the choices made in faucet, garbage disposal, dishwasher lines, etc they can't make exact cuts. Again, this is why a lot of RTA cabinets are backless and if the backing is ordered it must be cut by the installer to fit the existing fixture spaces. HOWEVER- I totally agree with your being upset about the range plug placement and their solution to cut another hole into the side of the custom cabinet boxes. Although- I'm not entirely sure I understand correctly if it had to go through another base to reach the outlet or just the base of that unit vs the back side where a hole was already cut? I don't know what another solution would have been.... 4) Cabinet Face Gaps: Are you doing a full overlay with the new build as well? I completely agree that the gap's should be consistent and you definitely shouldn't be able to see the contents of the drawers! If the cabinets are full overlay why is the frame not hiding the contents? If they are custom inset then I'd be very picky about how it all lines up since this is a fine craft that requires skill & time to get right (hence the excessive cost)...plus wood swells & contracts so they need to fit properly with a slight consistent gap after install.

Your worry is about leaks in the pipes that damage any wood floors. So, get a whole house leak detector and get the hardwood - engineered or otherwise. I just ordered this: https://www.phyn.com/product/ . The other one that is highly recommended is Flo by Moen. They detect leaks through pressure changes and typical water usage. Also under the dishwasher put a dishwasher drip pan and buy a dishwasher that has a water shut off if it detects a leak. The drip pan channels the water to the front of the DW so that you will see the water before damage is done. https://www.amazon.com/Eastman-EZF70486-70486-Dishwasher-Black/dp/B00WQRKDNY/ref=asc_df_B00WQRKDNY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167125770928&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2371089925326721163&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032027&hvtargid=pla-312054148738&psc=1 I just installed 1700 sq ft of engineered flooring and I don't want to do it again due to water leaks. So I am doing the above. If there was a pan for the refrigerator, I would put one there too. But, the leak detector should solve most of my worries. I live in East Bay and houses move and I was told that engineered wood can tolerate that better than hardwood. In the laundry I installed vinyl planks which I have to say, I really love as it is super easy to clean up, no worries about water damage. It is a gray plank and weirdly I have gotten compliments from neighbors thinking it was "real wood"...