Need help identifying graft line and branch that's from root stock.
vanellopy
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agovanellopy thanked Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7Avanellopy
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoRelated Discussions
Eureka Dwarf Lemon - Graft line help
Comments (10)Well, I would be careful mulching under the tree, then. You want to make sure your tree's root area is draining well. Clay can be wonderful soil to plant in, as it is rich in minerals (your micros). But, it can have drainage issues as I'm sure you're aware. For citrus, it is helpful to plant them on a mound, to promote better drainage. If your tree continues to appear chlorotic, I would increase your fertilizer (lemons just seem to need more fertilizer in general, I have found, especially Meyer lemons), and make sure your root area is not staying too wet. This can cause an overall chlorotic appearance, as the roots are being damaged by too much water (suffocating), and are not able to take up nutrients. Otherwise, sounds like you've got a great system going. Patty S....See Moreis this branch below the graft line?
Comments (18)Don't spray anything unless you are sure you know what the problem is. Tree needs a bigger pot and may need to be fertilized. If one of the branches is from a rootstock it will become more apparent over time, you don't necessarily have to do anything about it right now. When leaving rootstock sprouts is a problem is when, probably quite some years later, the rootstock is taking over and pushing the scion aside/shading it out. That said, in your last picture the foliage in the part nearest the post looks quite different from the part with the fruit. Next I would want to view the specimen in person before I tried to make a decision....See MoreHow do you Tell a Root Flare from a Graft
Comments (10)That's one of the things I dislike about all the grafted stock out there-this very conundrum. As odd as it may appear, I think you're close to right-on for planting depth. If it were me, I'd use nothing other than organic mulching materials on top of that soil. BTW, I fully understand why trees are grown this way......the perceived need to produce a consistent product from plant to plant, the desire to have a predictable outcome with the scions used. But these grafts are not helpful in terms of planting depth and we all know of some cases where graft incompatibility wreaks havoc on the tree long after installation. The 'Autumn Purple' cultivar of white ash comes to mind, many trees declining and dying out long after being planted. At least for native tree types, I sure would like to see more seed-grown stuff. We could still have our consistency via making careful seed harvests from known good genetics. Some degree of variation would be healthy, after all. +oM...See MoreGraft branch from old apricot tree to new root stock.
Comments (7)I found several rootstocks for apricots. Cummins Nursery has a Mariana GF8-1 full size rootstock for Apricots, They 're $2.75 each. The shipping is $20 estimated when I added one to my cart. I bought apple rootstocks from them last year without problem. I checked Fedco, no apricots. I checked Willimette they have 3 varieties but only sell a 100 minimum. I didn't check at Grandpa's cause they wanted $45 shipping minimum last spring. You should order early, first of the year, once they run out they're out. They all seem to ship once and that's it. Fedco allows you to choose early or late, that's it. That sounds expensive, but if you buy a seedling it may cost you double that. Another thought I had was that since you're trying to save your tree and you've never done this before you should consider buying more than 1 rootstock. Even if you put two grafted trees in the same hole you've got a guarantee for only $2.75 more. I did 7 apple grafts last spring and all are doing fine. They all sent a shoot up from the tip of the scion and no other shoots, so I'm thinking you need to be careful of the top most bud. Growth varied from 4 inches to 30 inches. All the growth is whips, no branching. I also planted a couple of the rootstocks without grafting for backup trees. The M.111 (semi-full) grew about 4 foot, next to it an M.7 (semi-dwarf) grew about a foot. Google "whip and tongue" graft. You'll find video's and articles. I used a retractible safety knife and teflon plumbers tape which I had. I bought grafting tape on eBay for a few bucks which included shipping. I used the teflon tape instead of parrafin which you'll find in your supermarket if you ask for "gulfwax". I'd suggest you cut the bottom off a plastic half gallon milk jug make a hole in the center and use it for a finger guard. Good luck....See MoreDave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agovanellopy
3 years agoDave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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